Worth the money?

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reachtreeservi

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Went to compare climbing saws today, narrowed it down to 2. Both are stihl.The new 192t and the 200t. Is the 200t worth the considerable extra cash.Is there anybody out there that has used both?
 
Never used both, never seen a climber with a 192, that tells you all you need to know.
 
Never used a 200, but never heard anything except good about it. I guess it depends if you classify your work as professional or hobby/part time.

Even if you're not full-time in the business, you're still allowed to buy the world's best gear. Nuttin wrong with that, and usually no regrets.
 
Used both 200 and192

The 192 is not bad for the price but if your going to only buy 1 get the 200 Yes it's worth the extra money. I have 2-200 1-019 and 1-192. And the 192 is good in small stuff but I like the power of the 200 when it gets bigger.I run 14" bars on all of the small saws. And the 200 is the top saw.The other saws are great for back up. Tony:chainsaw:
 
I can't tell you the number of times I have buried a 14" or 16" bar into oak with a 200T. They are strong saws that will last a long long while taking a beating. If this is going to be your primary saw and you use it a good amount then spring for the 200. If you are going to just use it once every couple of months just buy an echo and save yourself the money.
 
I would agree with everyone else on the 200t. Plus the 192 is new and they don't exactly have all the bugs worked out of it yet. I'd say give it a year or two before they have it mastered.
 
I would not get the 192 I bought one thinking I would give it a try and now it sits in the barn. Its heavy, unbalanced and lacks in the power department. My old echo 340 kicks its arse all day long, get the 200.
 
Lumberjacked said:
I would not get the 192 I bought one thinking I would give it a try and now it sits in the barn. Its heavy, unbalanced and lacks in the power department. My old echo 340 kicks its arse all day long, get the 200.


Your joking right? The 192T might not be the powerhouse the 200T is....then again no other top handle is....but heavy? Its one of if not THE lightest climbing saw made.
 
stihlatit said:
Throughout this whole site have not heard a bad thing about the 200. Its all good.
It's the most expensive saw in it's class.
It's not the fastest.
The carb is located at the rear of the rear handle, where the operators right hand should go.
The top handle wraps from the bottom of the saw, up to the rear handle, ending about 4 inches too soon, making the saw very difficult to use with two hands.
Both handles are too small for gloved hands bigger than extra small.
The exhaust rattles apart during normal use and is very difficult to re-tighten because by the time you know it's loose, the threads are shot.
A good power increase can be had by removing the muffler screen and re-adjusting the carb, which leaves a motor without an exhaust filter.
Box like shape makes the saw not "flow" through tight spots well if hanging on a saddle.
Very high kickback potential.
Small lanyard ring breaks off easily.
New oil and gas caps are highly criticized.
No rim sprockets are available.
Arguably, the hardest saw to disassemble and re-assemble of any saw made.
And given time, I could mention a few more things wrong with it...:chainsaw:
 
Out of that list......yes the new caps are stupid, other than that it is the cats meow. The handle is just right to one hand with. One of the best saws ever made, right up there with a Husky 288xp, going to be a legend.
 
Mike Maas said:
It's the most expensive saw in it's class.
It's not the fastest.
The carb is located at the rear of the rear handle, where the operators right hand should go.
The top handle wraps from the bottom of the saw, up to the rear handle, ending about 4 inches too soon, making the saw very difficult to use with two hands.
Both handles are too small for gloved hands bigger than extra small.
The exhaust rattles apart during normal use and is very difficult to re-tighten because by the time you know it's loose, the threads are shot.
A good power increase can be had by removing the muffler screen and re-adjusting the carb, which leaves a motor without an exhaust filter.
Box like shape makes the saw not "flow" through tight spots well if hanging on a saddle.
Very high kickback potential.
Small lanyard ring breaks off easily.
New oil and gas caps are highly criticized.
No rim sprockets are available.
Arguably, the hardest saw to disassemble and re-assemble of any saw made.
And given time, I could mention a few more things wrong with it...:chainsaw:


What exactly IS the fatsest top handle made? STOCK? Oh great one.
 
It's the most expensive saw in it's class.
It's not the fastest.
The carb is located at the rear of the rear handle, where the operators right hand should go.
The top handle wraps from the bottom of the saw, up to the rear handle, ending about 4 inches too soon, making the saw very difficult to use with two hands.
Both handles are too small for gloved hands bigger than extra small.
The exhaust rattles apart during normal use and is very difficult to re-tighten because by the time you know it's loose, the threads are shot.
A good power increase can be had by removing the muffler screen and re-adjusting the carb, which leaves a motor without an exhaust filter.
Box like shape makes the saw not "flow" through tight spots well if hanging on a saddle.
Very high kickback potential.
Small lanyard ring breaks off easily.
New oil and gas caps are highly criticized.
No rim sprockets are available.
Arguably, the hardest saw to disassemble and re-assemble of any saw made.
And given time, I could mention a few more things wrong with it...
__________________
What kind of saw do you use?Please don't say 335/338
 
It's the most expensive saw in it's class. --ITS THE BEST
It's not the fastest.--IT ISN'T??
The carb is located at the rear of the rear handle, where the operators right hand should go.---THERE IS NO REAR HANDLE
The top handle wraps from the bottom of the saw, up to the rear handle, ending about 4 inches too soon, making the saw very difficult to use with two hands.----????????
Both handles are too small for gloved hands bigger than extra small.--TOP HANDLE IS SMALL
The exhaust rattles apart during normal use and is very difficult to re-tighten because by the time you know it's loose, the threads are shot.---NEVER SEEN TIS PROBLEM-JUST MUFFLER PROBLEMS BY DROPPING IT
A good power increase can be had by removing the muffler screen and re-adjusting the carb, which leaves a motor without an exhaust filter.---OR YOU CAN CLEAN IT WEEKLY
Box like shape makes the saw not "flow" through tight spots well if hanging on a saddle.---DOES ANY SAW
Very high kickback potential.---ALL HIGH RPM TOP HANDLE SAWS ARE
Small lanyard ring breaks off easily.---MINE'S STILL INTACT AFTER 5YRS
New oil and gas caps are highly criticized.--DIFFERENT,OK ONCE YOU GET USED TO
No rim sprockets are available.--YOU WANTED TO CHANGE IT??
Arguably, the hardest saw to disassemble and re-assemble of any saw made.---ITS HARD FOR ME TO DISSASSEMBLE A SAW THAT DOESN'T NEED TO BE FIXED........
And given time, I could mention a few more things wrong with it...
__________________

AHH,
The good who's better argument-it never will be won(or lost).
 
I bought a 192 and my first impression was "jumpy", I coul dsee some serious kickback with this model.
 
The MS192T (not to ever be confused with the hopeless 19T) is an absolutely brilliant trim saw. Super -light weight and the balance is so well engineered you can feel when the tank is getting low. But it is specialized into that pigeon-hole. It's a trim saw and nothing more. It even runs a dinky width chain that leaves a better finish on small cuts. I was able to borrow one for a week. I'd never attempt a removal with one, but it will be the next saw I purchase.

But to start out, you need a Do Everything Climbers Saw.

That's the MS200T. Bar none. Absolutely your best first choice.

Yes, it's got a butt like a brick that is hard to haul up sometimes. Makes me pay more attention to how my saw follows me than how I'd like to climb, sometimes. Still the only saw I want with me once I've made the trip.

Don't bash the bottom, never let it drop, and you'll never have a problem with the muffler screws.

All of the regular maintenance items on the MS200T are made to be simple.
If you give the saw the regular maintenance it requires, per the manual, you don't have to get into any complex repairs for a long, long time.

Even if you do have to take a MS200T down to bits, it ain't REALLY THAT COMPLICATED! I've made a working 200 out of a carcass that was run over by a truck using parts from a 200 that had been run on straight gas. It was a four beer job.


But if the new Stihl fuel caps give you a challenge, you would likely find such a challenge beyond you.



RedlineIt
 
I've used both. I used the 192 before it was on the market, got my hands on the test model. It was a nice litle saw. If you can afford both go for it. If not just get the 200t. The 192 is a light weight little laser. It cuts great on the little stuff. Awesome for pruning. I really like and think it has its place.

So clearance just because you havent personally seen me a "climber" use one doesn't mean anything. We need to be open minded.
 
Big John, you, me and very, very few on this site are anything close to "open minded". Probably most are hardworking and like me, with flaws but decent people though, open minded just isn't the first term that comes to mind. It ain't called stubborn if you're right.
 

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