Looking for a nice MS660 or 066.
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WTB MS660 or 066
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814hammer
arboristSite member
I have a 660 real nice saw only thing it needs is crank seals the piston and cylinder are not scratched at all it sat and when I gassed it up can not tune so sprayed break clean around saw and figured out that the seals are bad I will let the saw go for 600 plus shipping for 75
0 I'll thro in two parts saws both the pistons are free one a 066 and other is a 064 red light saw the parts saws are not complete
0 I'll thro in two parts saws both the pistons are free one a 066 and other is a 064 red light saw the parts saws are not complete
sld961
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KYLogger
Professional Tree Assassin
Supposed to be picking one up in trade this Fri. Owner said was a 2010 660. I haven't seen the saw but he said it still looked great (decals intact etc...) I will post more info if and when I get it.
Tom
Tom
i've got a couple I am going to be building from ground up... If you don't find another one let me know. Keep in mind there is a large variation in 066/660's since there run has been so long. they are all good saws but certain models are more powerful/desirable than others... Just FYI.
me too please. I have 2 066 and a 660. Thanks.
I am no 066/660 genius but from what I understand the older top ends especially the "flat top" cylinder 066's are known to have greater power due to more optima port timing and once you throw red lights and newer 660's in the mix I couldn't for sure tell you what is what... I'm sure there are 100 threads on here explaining the differences over the years and what is good and bad about each... I only have a few to flip... I'm a dolmar guy myself.
Red light cylinders have good port timing but a thin base. The non decomp jugs and some of the first decomp jugs have good port timing and a thicker base if you want to do machine work to. The later mahle cylinders were getting too high on the exhaust and the stihl labeled have exhaust way high for a work saw. An early cylinder will run with a lot of ported 660 cylinders.
It wouldn't be a bad choice. If you're set on getting port work done then I wouldn't be as picky. If you're going to keep it stock then I would try to search out an older cylinder. It will run a good bit better than the newer ones.
Any comments on carbs and fuel air flow? I'm learning too. I have a red light and early non-decomp cylinder here.
Keep in mind a rebuild and port job is not a bad option... I just rebuilt a really nice 066 with an AM big bore kit. It was high and long on the intake but I get calls every other week from the tree service it went to... They proclaim it as the best 066/660 the have run and I didn't even have lathe work done! The bbk's are about 98-99cc though. And porting properly will optimize their power. Lots of porters won't touch bbk's yet but I've had good success and it saves $100 over oem.
Keep in mind a rebuild and port job is not a bad option... I just rebuilt a really nice 066 with an AM big bore kit. It was high and long on the intake but I get calls every other week from the tree service it went to... They proclaim it as the best 066/660 the have run and I didn't even have lathe work done! The bbk's are about 98-99cc though. And porting properly will optimize their power. Lots of porters won't touch bbk's yet but I've had good success and it saves $100 over oem.
Thanks everyone for the good info.
Guys, I could not resist the temptation to chime in on this one since there is obviously a lot of detailed knowledge on a spacific saw available here. I have asked this question of a lot of AS friends, industry employees and friends in general and I have yet to get any kind of a consensus for an answer- so here goes... Lets say PHO here to keep it simple- If you had your choice between a brand new from the dealer 2012 or 2013 model year MS660R (with the eventual intention of having it woods ported only by a well respected AS expert porter) or a late model 066 that was internally damaged & rebuilt into an R model (and is now probably a 7or 8 out of 10 cosmetically & a 10 mechanically), not ported but with a early red light, non-decomp top end & walbro carb etc (with no real intention of getting it ported in the future) and the cost of the rebuilt 066R (with old school internals) was a little less money (but only by $100) of the cost of the new 660R- which one would you prefer/choose/buy & why? Also it's a given that with the port work on the new saw, it would end up costing $300-400 more/total (incl. the $100 initial price diff).
Appreciate any and all input,
Thanks!
opcorn:
Just bought an 066.
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