I'll be using the firebox for my new furnace build.
Ya' can't kick free!... Pics
- Thread starter Whitespider
- Start date
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loadthestove
ArboristSite Guru
looks like a nice stove to be cutting up...
logbutcher
Addicted to ArboristSite
If it looks like a duck.....
Walks like a duck......
Sounds like a duck......
IT'S A DUCK !!!
Wood stove, not a wood furnace, no matter how monkeyed.:hmm3grin2orange:
Walks like a duck......
Sounds like a duck......
IT'S A DUCK !!!
Wood stove, not a wood furnace, no matter how monkeyed.:hmm3grin2orange:
chopperfreak2k1
Addicted to ArboristSite
nice lookin stove! do you have the brand name and model number? i can't make it out in the pix. thanks
drumbum
ArboristSite Operative
I think you would have been satisfied with an Englander 28-3500 add-on furnace shipped to your door for $1150. Not the best out there, but probably would have done what your other set-up did and more. But.....free is free..... plus your labor.
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Pacific Energy Spectrum
Yeah, but the Englander is $1150.oo, and this was $000,000.oo... and I have all the steel and whatnot I need to make it what I want.
Installed, the cost will still be $000,000.oo... hard to argue with that.
Yeah, but the Englander is $1150.oo, and this was $000,000.oo... and I have all the steel and whatnot I need to make it what I want.
Installed, the cost will still be $000,000.oo... hard to argue with that.
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thepheniox
ArboristSite Operative
Same as my woodstove. Very nice mine is green though. Not sure why the inlet is sealed on the back. I had to get a new baffle made for this year so check all the inside parts.
timbrjackrussel
ArboristSite Guru
Is it a Pacific Energy Spectrum?
Pacific Energy Fireplace Products Ltd.
Pacific Energy Fireplace Products Ltd.
thepheniox
ArboristSite Operative
Had a friend make the new baffle. A new one cost way to much.
Pleasant Ridge
ArboristSite Lurker
Don't you reckon that 12oz is a little small for a firebox? I'd think the aluminum would be a little thin.
:msp_tongue:
:msp_tongue:
The baffle looks good, already had it out... but the insulation on top of it looks a bit ratty.
Does it have to have the insulation mat on top?
Does it have to have the insulation mat on top?
thepheniox
ArboristSite Operative
I think my old baffle got badly warped because I didn't have that insulation installed correctly. It was back from the front about two inches. I'll take some photos of the old one when I get a chance. Not sure how your gonna make it fit in with your duct work but it's a great stove. I would weld the little ash pan flap shut as it can open a little and the stove will burn way too hot. Very efficient as well.
thepheniox
ArboristSite Operative
No tubes del. just a baffle with holes in it.
savageactor7
ArboristSite Guru
That brass sure makes it a beautiful stove.
Marc
Addicted to ArboristSite
On secondary burn systems, you're right, the secondary combustion area has to be kept very hot and O2 rich. That's why a lot of stoves use the ceramic fiberboard, not just because they're resistant to high temp.'s but because they're very insulative. I imagine if you have a stainless baffle (as I'm assuming this one does?) the heat loss off the top would be too great for the baffle to stay hot enough to support efficient secondary combustion. But I'm not familiar with this stove at all.
Yep, stainless steel baffle, and I get it now...
In order to keep the secondary combustion air super-heated the insulating mat is there to restrict heat loss from the top side of baffle.
So, because I'm technologically challenged when it comes to these new-fangled wood burning appliances, what is that stuff, and where can I buy some?
In order to keep the secondary combustion air super-heated the insulating mat is there to restrict heat loss from the top side of baffle.
So, because I'm technologically challenged when it comes to these new-fangled wood burning appliances, what is that stuff, and where can I buy some?
Turkeyslayer
Smells Great
Sell the wood stove and use the money towards a wood furnace( or metal/parts to build your own). I think ingenuity is great, but why butcher a perfectly good stove to possibly end up with an unsatisfactory furnace. jmho
laynes69
Addicted to ArboristSite
One thing to consider on most EPA stoves, the air doesn't always enter in one spot but multiple areas. These intakes may be hidden, and if inadvertently covered will affect the way the stove will burn. On all furnaces, the air jacket is sealed to not allow combustion products to enter the home through ductwork.
Marc
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't know what is spec'ed out in those stoves, but I imagine Kaowool would work fine. We use it in the fire lab all the time. Good insulating properties, doesn't combust or degrade under extreme heat. I once used it in an ASTM burn room with 8 1 ft propane fired sand burners with fires in the 2 MW neighborhood. Ceiling temps where the Kaowool was protecting a steel track in excess of 2000F.
Here's one place to get it:
Thermal Ceramics Kaowool
But it's easy to find. I think we used to order it from Grainger.
Thanks Marc, that looks like the stuff.
Now the rest of you guys…
I ain’t gonna’ “cut up or “butcher” the stove. Where does that idea come from? I’m simply gonna’ remove the top and side panels (that are held on with screws) and attach different ones that allow more air space between them and the firebox. The rear will have a connection for the forced air from the blower and the top will have a connection for ducting. I’ve decided to not cover the front of the firebox (door) with the new plenum because of the possibility ash (or smoke) could enter the ducting system during any time the door was open. The stove will be able to return to factory configuration by simply swapping out the panels.
I ain’t gonna’ sell the stove and use the money towards a furnace, or metal to build one. Well, unless you’d like to buy it for… say, $2800.oo? That should give me enough to buy or build a nice furnace. The idea here is to do this for zero cost… or as close to zero as possible. I’m pretty darn sure I can do it for well under $100.oo, probably under $50.oo, maybe less than $25.oo.
I know where the “hidden” air intake is, I’ve downloaded the manual for the stove… All the air is brought into the firebox from underneath, inside the pedestal. There is zero chance I’ll be covering, or blocking it.
An “unsatisfactory furnace”? It will be fine. This firebox is much better than the one I have now, which is nothing more than a steel box with flue connection… and this one is a much heavier steel box, with fire brick, secondary burn (supposed to be a good thing?), and rated at over 80% efficient. This stove is also rated at 70,000 BTU (my gas furnace is only 110,000)… even figuring some of that will be radiated out the front and into the basement, not into the plenum (my existing radiates outside the plenum both front and rear), that has to be a ton of heat compared to the ancient hunk of iron I’m using now (and it manages to heat the entire home until temperatures drop below zero).
It ain't like I've never converted a stove to furnace configuration... that's what I have now.
I’m thinkin’ this can only be a win-win for me… more heat from less fuel and zero cost.
C’mon, how the hell can you argue with that?
Now the rest of you guys…
I ain’t gonna’ “cut up or “butcher” the stove. Where does that idea come from? I’m simply gonna’ remove the top and side panels (that are held on with screws) and attach different ones that allow more air space between them and the firebox. The rear will have a connection for the forced air from the blower and the top will have a connection for ducting. I’ve decided to not cover the front of the firebox (door) with the new plenum because of the possibility ash (or smoke) could enter the ducting system during any time the door was open. The stove will be able to return to factory configuration by simply swapping out the panels.
I ain’t gonna’ sell the stove and use the money towards a furnace, or metal to build one. Well, unless you’d like to buy it for… say, $2800.oo? That should give me enough to buy or build a nice furnace. The idea here is to do this for zero cost… or as close to zero as possible. I’m pretty darn sure I can do it for well under $100.oo, probably under $50.oo, maybe less than $25.oo.
I know where the “hidden” air intake is, I’ve downloaded the manual for the stove… All the air is brought into the firebox from underneath, inside the pedestal. There is zero chance I’ll be covering, or blocking it.
An “unsatisfactory furnace”? It will be fine. This firebox is much better than the one I have now, which is nothing more than a steel box with flue connection… and this one is a much heavier steel box, with fire brick, secondary burn (supposed to be a good thing?), and rated at over 80% efficient. This stove is also rated at 70,000 BTU (my gas furnace is only 110,000)… even figuring some of that will be radiated out the front and into the basement, not into the plenum (my existing radiates outside the plenum both front and rear), that has to be a ton of heat compared to the ancient hunk of iron I’m using now (and it manages to heat the entire home until temperatures drop below zero).
It ain't like I've never converted a stove to furnace configuration... that's what I have now.
I’m thinkin’ this can only be a win-win for me… more heat from less fuel and zero cost.
C’mon, how the hell can you argue with that?
