particleperson
ArboristSite Lurker
The key part of instrumenting this is computer linked tachometer readout. Zoro tool # G2572613 is a optical tachometer (like what you are using) with a USB data readout to Windows computer. Price looks reasonable.
Yet Another Chainsaw Dyno
- Thread starter dieseldave
- Start date
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IF, you can find out what you need,,,,check fleabay for used electronics.......ive gotten stuff off of there,,that was just fine,,for pennies on the dollar. might put the cost closer to 100.00I've had a chance to run a few more saws on the dyno. I borrowed my neighbor's minty fresh 562 when he wasn't looking and it managed 4.4hp at 9600 and 2.6ft/lbs at 8600. My 288 went 5.8hp at 8900 and 3.8 ft/lbs at 7700- I think it could have managed a higher torque number if I had pulled it down lower. My experience so far is that it is easier to get a reading from the bigger saws, the numbers don't jump around as much. I ran 3 back to back pulls with the 288 with no issues with the dyno overheating so I think it's ok in that respect.
I spoke to Kevin at Performance Trends today about data acquisition. Looks like it's going to be over a grand, but I think it's going to be a necessity to get good repeatable results. Might have to sell a saw or two to do it, though
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Just did a search on ebay for "load cell"
Holy crap.
Holy crap.
yup...............
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Now we gotta figure out what we need to make it work.
wellllll, your good at chainsaws,, now you need a electrician, that's good at probably cnc setups............
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Join an electronic guru forum?
lefturnfreek
Sharpen the chain, chuck chips ...repeat...
Oddly enough this redneck is an electronic engineering technician but I'm not even close to ya, it shouldn't be that had to integrate some tech into that dyno.
Sweet build BTW!!!
Sweet build BTW!!!
DD
I'm assuming the single power pulse must be rough on the load cells? What about a pneumatic cylinder with a pressure gauge on it? Make it a closed system, as the lever is pushed harder and harder the pressure increases. It wouldn't be difficult to calibrate the cylinder pressure into lbs, just add a 1 lb weight on top and see what the pressure is at, then add half a pound and see what the pressure is and so on.
According to my super from what I remember from school and what the google box told me redneck maths and pressures and volume calculatings of science! I figure you need a 0.5"x4" pneumatic cylinder to be able to measure up to 23 lbs of force (at 120 psi) if you start with the cylinder extended at atmospheric pressure.
Oly, MM,LTF and others, should we start a separate thread for Dyno brainstorming/engineering so we stop highjacking this thread?
I'm assuming the single power pulse must be rough on the load cells? What about a pneumatic cylinder with a pressure gauge on it? Make it a closed system, as the lever is pushed harder and harder the pressure increases. It wouldn't be difficult to calibrate the cylinder pressure into lbs, just add a 1 lb weight on top and see what the pressure is at, then add half a pound and see what the pressure is and so on.
According to my super from what I remember from school and what the google box told me redneck maths and pressures and volume calculatings of science! I figure you need a 0.5"x4" pneumatic cylinder to be able to measure up to 23 lbs of force (at 120 psi) if you start with the cylinder extended at atmospheric pressure.
Oly, MM,LTF and others, should we start a separate thread for Dyno brainstorming/engineering so we stop highjacking this thread?
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I think it should all stay in this thread.
Dave is wanting to outfit the dyno with electronics......and he's building another for me.
Dave is wanting to outfit the dyno with electronics......and he's building another for me.
time to start pm's wit ltf. as his explains might be long....
dieseldave
ArboristSite Operative
I agree, this is all about making the dyno as useful as possible
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I'm gonna try to find out a little info Dave........we'll get it done.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
dieseldave
ArboristSite Operative
I am sorry to report that the saw dyno came to a sad end when our shop burned to the ground Monday morning. If you look carefully you can see the remains of the 8401 Makita/Dolmar that was bolted to it at the time. In the background is my grandfather's '63 Corvair that my dad and I were nearly finished restoring.
Attachments
Wow. I'm really sorry to hear about your misfortune.
Same as what Brad said, don't know what else to say.
The house that I now live in was burned down when I was building it in 1987. Fortunately, we had not moved in yet, and it was still devastating. It was arson, on St Patrick's Day, some teens getting out of hand broke in, partied, and burned it.
Some people say it is just material things that you lost, and don't worry about it, but they are wrong. It is your time and effort, the piece of your life that you put into it that is taken, so it hurts. Best of luck recovering from this terrible event.
The house that I now live in was burned down when I was building it in 1987. Fortunately, we had not moved in yet, and it was still devastating. It was arson, on St Patrick's Day, some teens getting out of hand broke in, partied, and burned it.
Some people say it is just material things that you lost, and don't worry about it, but they are wrong. It is your time and effort, the piece of your life that you put into it that is taken, so it hurts. Best of luck recovering from this terrible event.
Wow that must have been a big fire!! sorry to hear of your misfortune.
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
Drop a stove top element or a space heater into a tub of mineral(baby) oil ?
or use heating elements from an electric water heater.
Hmm how about grabbing a smaller tank (like under the sink size) from a mobil home and then you've got a tank and the resistors
already together, plus the inlets/outlets for running to radiator for heat dispersal.
Get the longest length to wattage ratting elements.
There are a couple or more lengths and shapes thicknesses that I've seen over the years.
I'm thinking less of a chance for that little boily-bubbly layer around the elements when you're pumping the watts into them.
makes for hot spots and shorten element life.
I'd also expect it could possibly alter the resistance.
might make calculations a bit more error-some?
so how well would a mix of anti-freeze & water work for the fluid in the modded water heater?
