stihl 032av ignition

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captain dangers

partner 1633B (skil) chainsaw
Joined
Oct 2, 2011
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Location
cumbria U.K
hi guy's I have just picked up an old stihl 032av chainsaw in decent condition with a working chain brake, the problem is it has no spark, I have removed the flywheel and cleaned the flywheel and ignition coil faces and put back together and still no spark! its electronic ignition by the way. the saw has a little black chip down by the ignition coil bottom right corner and I was wandering if this is a trigger module? and could this be the problem? is they any way of testing it simply, and even testing the coil? (as I must confess electronics is not one of my strong points) ? would one of those nova 11 modules fix the problem? I have read other threads about the ignitions been obsolete etc , any help would be most grateful. regards captain dangerous ;o) on another note do Homelite 1050 flywheels com off easy , I'm going to make a puller in the next few weeks, I take it they pull off from the starter pawl threads? thanks in advance ;o)
 
Use the Oregon 33-053 universal ignition module, it works great on the 032.
that's grand thanks ;o), it looks like a rebadged/branded Nova11? but I don't want to shell out £ if there's nothing wrong with the unit fitted so I m hoping I could test the coil out 1st and eliminate that as I have an electrical tester some thick wellington boots and leather gloves ;o) looking at the saws condition I would say its done very little and would expect the coil to be o.k although looks can be very deceiving especially where women (dolly birds) are concerned ;o) are the kill switch wires prone to shorting out on these old saws? I had to remove the flywheel to clean the coil I don't know if that's the only way the coil can be removed as it looks a mammoth job removing the gas tank etc?
 
Remove the on off switch before you test for spark to eliminate that as a problem.
so do I have to remove the whole side panel to take the switch off and coil out. and check the wires continuity of the coil. do I have to remove the av mounts on the handle? forgive all the questions as I have no experience whatsoever of this model , is there a pdf manual available? its to good a saw away and I will try and get some photos of it uploaded tomorrow? I work in mental health and love the challenge of getting old saws going again as its a hobby which keeps me sane ;o)I have a large number of saws in my collection but don't know how to list them all in my profile? just picked up a lovely old Lombard super (70cc?) with av mounts looks like a homelite xl12 on steroids ;o), I will try and get some pics of that whilst I'm on.
 
I think you know what you're doing. Just gap the coil against the magnet with a normal business card when you get it back together.
I know how to do the gap setting I need to know how it comes apart to test the coil, at the moment it doesn't have a spark , I removed the flywheel and cleaned the flywheel magnets and coil face at the same time, re-fitted and gapped it but still no spark. I assume you don't have to remove the flywheel every time you need to remove the coil? if you get my meaning? someone said remove the switch but the switch looks inaccessible as its bolted to plate! yes I can remove the holding nut but how do you get it back in without removing the side cover. I don't want to waste money on a module without testing what's fitted first. I watched a YouTube video earlier of a man doing a 031 and he removed the whole side cover, I presume the 032 is the same as they look pretty much identical? regards cd
 
remove the 2 av mounts on handle loosen nut on switch , use a pair of vise grips gently clamp the frame and handle away from gas tank enough room to remove switch and grounding wire from switch do a ohm check on coil theres a spec in manual theres 2 specs

if its a electronic coil it doesn't need a module its in coil fits it has a points lobe on flywheel it needs a module !
 
remove the 2 av mounts on handle loosen nut on switch , use a pair of vise grips gently clamp the frame and handle away from gas tank enough room to remove switch and grounding wire from switch do a ohm check on coil theres a spec in manual theres 2 specs

if its a electronic coil it doesn't need a module its in coil fits it has a points lobe on flywheel it needs a module !

that's great thanks , that's what I was wanting to know. it is electronic ignition, so I guess if it isn't the kill switch or a chaffed wire then the coil is more than likely at fault? I will get some photos uploaded after work. thanks guy's.
 
I have managed to remove the coil and what appears to be an ignition module? all the wires appear to be in good condition with no chaffing/breaks at all in the insulation layer, would I be able to swap the old module chip for a universal one like the Oregon? assuming the original black square thing is a module? I have also included some photos of the offending 032 chainsaw along with some of my recent purchase a Lombard ;o)stihl 028av woodboss ebay 013.JPG stihl 028av woodboss ebay 017.JPG stihl 028av woodboss ebay 016.JPG stihl 028av woodboss ebay 018.JPG
 

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You know you can check those coils with an ohm meter..should have just a few ohms on the primary and a few thousand ohms on the secondary. It's not important that it's an exact reading to figure if the coil is the problem. I doubt if the trigger can be checked but if the coil is good you know to look elsewhere..
 
You know you can check those coils with an ohm meter..should have just a few ohms on the primary and a few thousand ohms on the secondary. It's not important that it's an exact reading to figure if the coil is the problem. I doubt if the trigger can be checked but if the coil is good you know to look elsewhere..

I have no idea how to check the working condition of the coil I do have a volt tester/ ohms tester though. do I just connect one crocodile clip to the laminated body and tough the ht lead with the other ?
 
Check continuity from ground to the end of the spark plug wire for the secondary, should be a few thousand ohms and from ground to the input wire on the coil with the kill switch turned on. If you turn it off it will ground the primary and you get -0- ohms. It has no polarity so it doesn't matter which meter lead you use for continuity on this..
 
Check continuity from ground to the end of the spark plug wire for the secondary, should be a few thousand ohms and from ground to the input wire on the coil with the kill switch turned on. If you turn it off it will ground the primary and you get -0- ohms. It has no polarity so it doesn't matter which meter lead you use for continuity on this..
thanks I will give it ago tomorrow afternoon ;o)
 
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