Sean80
ArboristSite Member
Bought it about 2 years ago. Pretty sure it has the older carb in it. Dealer always says nothing wrong with it... Now it's off warranty so I'm sure they will find something.
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562xp warm start trouble, air purge stops working for a while
- Thread starter Solrael
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Probably an el46. You ever take a peek at the plug when it won't start? Is it really light colored? Also ever pull the muffler and look in there? I've seen some from that era with mild seize issues. If that's the case then it might be just a little off on compression. Couple of things I would try, ditch the decomp and "plug" the hole. (decomp plugs are cheap), also chop the cover like the new ones that let a little more heat out of the system. And last but not least open up the exit of the muffler, its a little goofy in that muffler exit area, nothing a die grinder can't fix. Most of the above is about losing a little heat from the system. I have found when those saw are like that, (slightly scuffed) I freshen them up by breaking the glaze and putting in a new ring. Then bump the compression and they start so much easier. Then those "cooling" focused mods seem to keep those from that era happier. Of course I've only done four of the el46 versions, all with issues; to this point so that's not a huge segment of the 562 population. I watched a couple of folks go around in circles tweaking the carb....I went for heat reduction and a compression increase instead. (after checking to make certain the carb diaphragms & fuel lines were good)
Sean80
ArboristSite Member
Thanks for the tips. Sorry to sound negative, but it should come that way from the factory if that fixes the issues. Pretty bad you have to go to that much trouble to have a $900 saw work properly.
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Most of those saws seem to be awesome and don't need a thing, but there was a percentage that weren't. How many years of use? Assuming you did buy it new two years ago. Assuming from your avatar you make a living with those saws. Wish you had a good dealer. If you were local I would sort it out for you, but I don't do anything by mail .. too expensive for all involved.. :/ I've made a hobby of making the dead one's & problem one's (562's) work....lol Just did one today. I understand your frustration though. Those saws have evolved and the latest versions address a variety of issues from heat to carburation. I've been taking "problem" older ones and upgrading them to the el48, six screw case when needed, and a couple of tweaks to boost compression and take away heat...as mentioned. Doubt that any of the ones that are showing up now will need any of that .. ever.
Sean80
ArboristSite Member
It's been doing it since new. I've had it in to the dealer 3 or 4 times now for this issue. The saw has less than 50 hours on it.
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wow. that isn't right at all. Dealer probably doesn't have a recipe to fix it.
And most dealers will blame it on the AT system, instead doing a normal saw diagnosis. A choked up saw is a choked up saw weather or not it has an auto tune setup.
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Yup... muffler mods, cooling mods, with a little more compression solve a pile of issues on those saws...
Many dealers are more peddlers than mechanics and also have to deal with a variety of issues from warrantee to regulations a hobbyist picking over a dead saw or three for kicks doesn't have to. And while many target the manufacturer, its really politics that is at the root of these saws and the many coming into the market like them. WITH similar issues BTW. One thing you have to give credit to Husqvarna for...and that is taking the blend of technologies required and evolving the 562 into a wonderful saw. The latest and even the first "el48" saws are really good stock, no tweaks required at all really. I happen to like the last one I did with the el46's...it rips! A little leaner it seems. For me I've taken the earliest and upgraded them to el48 / six screw cases with my tweaks with success.. having a lot of fun with those saws. Have one I have as a test case with a el46 & my tweaks...its strongest & crispest saw of my bunch! The el48's run great and some have this funny little deal where if you just touch the throttle and release. A split second...they snap to a couple more RPM's a bit for a second then just as quickly snap back to idle. Not sure why but its a trend. Have a hunch this might have to do with a desire to get rid of a hesitation issue...Nothing bad happening, just it has a mind of its own...
Popped an el46 on one that acted like that...issue gone. Curious to see how long it lasts as that el46 came from a fried saw. So far all looks good....next year I'll talk about it more, if it lasts.
sunfish
Fish Head
Dealer problem, not a saw problem.
Sean80
ArboristSite Member
They called this morning and said they talked to their rep and now know that there have been issues. He said they would call Husky tech and get it sorted out. Hopefully it gets fixed!
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funny how that works.
MountainHigh
Selective Tree whacker
Have to say that since my saw has come back with the new piston/cylinder, it starts easier than ever - both cold, warm and hot starts.
Case is opened up with ventilation hole and carb is being drilled shortly.
Weimedog, your experience with these saws makes a lot of sense. Thanks.
Case is opened up with ventilation hole and carb is being drilled shortly.
Weimedog, your experience with these saws makes a lot of sense. Thanks.
albert
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's great you can do all of that. But what about the average buyer who bought a top of the line, state of the art pro saw for 700+$? Do you think they should have to deal with, or repeatedly return for repair for the same on going issue? It looks like husqvarna finally resolved the bulk of the trouble with the latest batch.
Termite
Time To Launch
My local Husky dealer does not hesitate to call tech support, even if it is just one of my questions.
t
At this point they are pretty much sorted out. I not going to defend the past as its not my place or my interest other than the more cheap dead ones there are the more for me to fix.. I know that's not the politically correct but its a waste of time asking my opinion on the teething issues as I understand both sides....that line of conversation should be directed to those representing the manufacturer. Fact is all these saw from a variety of brands are "work in progress". From what I understand Husqvarna did stand by the early issues as a lot of new saws were replaced. Husqvarna started sooner with the technology and is much further along to the point statistically they are more problematic than any other saw. The other place to direct that frustration is in fact the roots of the requirements that forced the manufacturer to build in this direction. Ask Caterpillar how they felt when the numbers made it obvious they weren't going to be selling truck motors.....here's the deal. Husqvarna and Stihl have gone ahead and tried to tackle the "EPA" regulation monster. And for the most part have succeeded and in the case of the 550-562 have even advanced the "state of the art" in saws. So to answer the question about how I feel about teething issues on epa saws from the heart....who you vote for matters. That's it. And also I'm impressed with what Husqvarna has been able to accomplish as it wasn't easy. As with ALL saws there will be evolution. 371's turned into 372's...AND last but not least....562's are great saws.
At this point they are pretty much sorted out. I not going to defend the past as its not my place or my interest other than the more cheap dead ones there are the more for me to fix..
I know that's not the politically correct but its a waste of time asking my opinion on the teething issues as I understand both sides....that line of conversation should be directed to those representing the manufacturer. Fact is all these saw from a variety of brands are "work in progress". From what I understand Husqvarna did stand by the early issues as a lot of new saws were replaced. Husqvarna started sooner with the technology and is much further along to the point statistically they are more problematic than any other saw. The other place to direct that frustration is in fact the roots of the requirements that forced the manufacturer to build in this direction. Ask Caterpillar how they felt when the numbers made it obvious they weren't going to be selling truck motors.....here's the deal. Husqvarna and Stihl have gone ahead and tried to tackle the "EPA" regulation monster. And for the most part have succeeded and in the case of the 550-562 have even advanced the "state of the art" in saws. So to answer the question about how I feel about teething issues on epa saws from the heart....who you vote for matters. That's it. And also I'm impressed with what Husqvarna has been able to accomplish as it wasn't easy. As with ALL saws there will be evolution. 371's turned into 372's...AND last but not least....562's are great saws.
Should Be:
"statistically they are NO more problematic than any other saw"
Editor not available for me to correct that..
Well at least with the issues being ironed out by the engineers at husky, the future of the five series looks bright. You have to remember when the 550/562 hit the market 5-6 years ago there were many 'firsts' about the design that no other saw had. There were many design features that had not been ever done before, most new models involve slight improvements over the previous platform but the 562 saw was a ground up new design. I would not right off husky over the mistakes involved, sure they were handled poorly in many cases as the service network is nowhere near as solid as Stihls. But they did produce a design that is an industry benchmark in performance/design.
Solrael
ArboristSite Lurker
Wow... this thread really took off! I totally thank you for hijacking it. As it turns out I put my 562 on the too hard shelf not long after my last post here because when I switched bar oil brands (to the genuine Husqvarna bar oil which is much thinner than what I was using) I realised my saw was overheating (promptly panicked and decided not to touch it until I had it looked at). My chain bar oil would froth out of the bar and at one point was bubbling in the tank. I'm not a pro user, and had other jobs to do around the property so I kind of left the saw alone until now, but I've recently had some trees come down and need to get back into it. I've got my saw in with my local shop at the moment and haven't heard back, but by the sounds of where this thread headed I'm concerned I may have a toast cylinder now too (and no warranty). I guess I'll update this thread if I find anything out, but it does seem like overheating could have been my problem too.
Thanks to everyone who kept the discussion alive for me!
MountainHigh
Selective Tree whacker
keep us posted ...
was the old heavier bar oil causing overheating of the bar, or the thinner husky bar oil? I usually run medium weight bar oil in winter and heavy in summer.
- I've opened up cover and added extra outlet hole in carb, so far so good with my saw, but it hasn't been hot here yet!
was the old heavier bar oil causing overheating of the bar, or the thinner husky bar oil? I usually run medium weight bar oil in winter and heavy in summer.
- I've opened up cover and added extra outlet hole in carb, so far so good with my saw, but it hasn't been hot here yet!
Solrael
ArboristSite Lurker
My only update so far is my shop saying the top end needs to be rebuilt (and they're charging me as much for it as I paid for my saw 2 years ago, but I guess that's life). They're initial inspection was brief and they blamed me for not using enough oil (which I completely disagree with, but there's nothing to be gained in me trying to prove my innocence), I'm just hoping they find the actual cause when they open it up to do the rebuild.
I think I'll add some ventilation to the cover too, no harm in trying that since the saw is never exposed to bad weather. Do you mean an extra outlet hole in the muffler?
The thinner oil would bubble, I never noticed problems with the thicker oil, which makes me think it had a higher boiling point or something and it had always overheated. That's just a wild theory though, possibly my saw has always run slightly (but not critically) hotter than intended, but something else happened more recently to cause more damage.
I think I'll add some ventilation to the cover too, no harm in trying that since the saw is never exposed to bad weather. Do you mean an extra outlet hole in the muffler?
The thinner oil would bubble, I never noticed problems with the thicker oil, which makes me think it had a higher boiling point or something and it had always overheated. That's just a wild theory though, possibly my saw has always run slightly (but not critically) hotter than intended, but something else happened more recently to cause more damage.
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