Tree too thick for my saw

[echomeister]

Hello

Due to storms I have 6 large trees down. My saw is an ECHO CS-450P with an 18 inch bar.

My trouble is that I am trying to dice up trunks that are nearly twice my bar length and even though I
cut from both sides i have trouble making the cuts meet in the middle.

My question is whether it is advisable to try to cut on the end of the log with my bar buried in the wood pointing along the tree axis then cut from the side to release these half pieces. Or any other suggestion except buying a new saw.

Thanks

 

[AGoodSteward]

Yes. Make sure your chain is sharp. Keep the discharge opening clear. Don't force it. Watch for kickback and careful when your bar comes out at the end of your cut.

 

[derwoodii]

Hello

Due to storms I have 6 large trees down. My saw is an ECHO CS-450P with an 18 inch bar.

My trouble is that I am trying to dice up trunks that are nearly twice my bar length and even though I
cut from both sides i have trouble making the cuts meet in the middle.

My question is whether it is advisable to try to cut on the end of the log with my bar buried in the wood pointing along the tree axis then cut from the side to release these half pieces. Or any other suggestion except buying a new saw.

Thanks

I think you described log ripping cutting parallel to the wood grain which you may find just as hard if not harder on you your saw and can be a bit risky if not wise to wood saw reactions much depending on species of wood and your saw chain profile,,, with no other options you can whittle the log away down to fit bar size it just will raise a sweat and take time so pre cool the beer ready for end of day

 

[kiteflyingeek]

I've attacked some 40"+ trees with my 18" bar -- I did it by cutting notches out of the tree so I could get the saw in deep enough. Definitely hard on operator & saw but sometimes, that's the only option. Also, it adds a pretty large amount of risk to the operation so be careful & as always, watch the bar tip.

--andrew

 

[Woody912]

Hello

Due to storms I have 6 large trees down. My saw is an ECHO CS-450P with an 18 inch bar.

My trouble is that I am trying to dice up trunks that are nearly twice my bar length and even though I
cut from both sides i have trouble making the cuts meet in the middle.

My question is whether it is advisable to try to cut on the end of the log with my bar buried in the wood pointing along the tree axis then cut from the side to release these half pieces. Or any other suggestion except buying a new saw.

Thanks

I think that saw will run a a 20" bar, might help a little. I usually try to cam my bar towards vertical on the really big stuff so I have line established on the back side when I do the walkaround but you may need to cut a pie to finish the middle. Saw is going to work hard, keep it shard, feel it well and make sure it can breathe.

 

[SeMoTony]

Hello

Due to storms I have 6 large trees down. My saw is an ECHO CS-450P with an 18 inch bar.

My trouble is that I am trying to dice up trunks that are nearly twice my bar length and even though I
cut from both sides i have trouble making the cuts meet in the middle.

My question is whether it is advisable to try to cut on the end of the log with my bar buried in the wood pointing along the tree axis then cut from the side to release these half pieces. Or any other suggestion except buying a new saw.

Thanks

It sounds like you want to noodle the end, turn ninety degrees and cross cut to the noodle cut. If you were closer I'd come over to mill some of that fat wood. Doing a noodle cut is easier on the saw from cutting down/with the grain. Cross cut with sharp chain won't be as hard on you and the saw as milling but it sounds like a project. If you don't need the wood yourself a lot of folks put craiglist adds in the free classification so volunteers do a big part of the work for you. Another better option would be to post free fire wood over in the "firewood,heat....." thread to find out if any one is close enough to assist.Good luck cut safe[/QUOTE]

 

[echomeister]

Thanks all. Yeah I have some 24" diameter cherry that is straight for 10-12 feet. Its up in the air so I will leave it for a while.

I will give it a try.

 

[AGoodSteward]

Thanks all. Yeah I have some 24" diameter cherry that is straight for 10-12 feet. Its up in the air so I will leave it for a while.

I will give it a try.

Sounds like what you've got are excuses to buy a bigger toy...er...TOOL...I mean.

 

[chipper1]

It sounds like you want to noodle the end, turn ninety degrees and cross cut to the noodle cut. If you were closer I'd come over to mill some of that fat wood. Doing a noodle cut is easier on the saw from cutting down/with the grain. Cross cut with sharp chain won't be as hard on you and the saw as milling but it sounds like a project.

Just do it, you need another rd trip, besides you wanted to stop by and see @farmer steve anyway .

Yes. Make sure your chain is sharp. Keep the discharge opening clear. Don't force it. Watch for kickback and careful when your bar comes out at the end of your cut.

Here , are some key points when it comes to saw safety.
A sharp chain, filing the chain after every couple tanks will keep it that way if your filing correctly.
Not sure how much cutting you've done, but kickback can be very dangerous, when the saw is in the cut always have your hand on the handlebar right behind the brake just in case it kicks back, this way the brake will at least stop the chain from spinning before hitting you(yes it happens).
I talk about the kickback because any time your bar does not go through the tree with the tip out the other side you will have a good chance for kickback. Understanding how kickback works and what actually causes it(the top half of the tip of the bar typically) will help you to be safe and to cut more productively.

Those thing said I would like to see some pictures of these trees as there are many other things(dangers) to be concerned with when cutting storm damaged trees.

If you don't need the wood yourself a lot of folks put craiglist adds in the free classification so volunteers do a big part of the work for you. Another better option would be to post free fire wood over in the "firewood,heat....." thread to find out if any one is close enough to assist.Good luck cut safe

What this guy said .
Tony, you might have to go get a bigger bar to cut something this big.

Good luck with the project @echomeister ,
Brett

 

[SeMoTony]

Just do it, you need another rd trip, besides you wanted to stop by and see @farmer steve anyway .

Those thing said I would like to see some pictures of these trees as there are many other things(dangers) to be concerned with when cutting storm damaged trees.

What this guy said .
Tony, you might have to go get a bigger bar to cut something this big.

Good luck with the project @echomeister ,
Brett

The 42" or 50" are enough if his 18" reaches half way. Talked to Allan yesterday and the double PH 72" bar is supposed to be at their shop by the end of the month for billing & shipment to me. Back when I liked the 50" cannon so well I risked getting a 60" not knowing if it was gonna be needed. When I used it a 72" bar would have paid for itself on the 1st slice from the unique reach and color from the stretch of root butresses below the table under my arm in avatar. d%mn stump grinders, it gone

 

[BenK]

Would a 20" bar solve this problem? It might not be economical to spend $50ish on a bar to use for such a short period of time, but it would be cheaper than purchasing a new saw.

 

[chipper1]

Would a 20" bar solve this problem? It might not be economical to spend $50ish on a bar to use for such a short period of time, but it would be cheaper than purchasing a new saw.

Wow Ben a perfect opportunity has arisen to buy a saw and your going to shoot it down with economics, I'm totally joking by the way .
I have bars around the house just waiting for a saw .

 

[bayard]

ben its time. get on to a bigger saw. you really need 2 saws, at a min.

 

[boltonranger]

I agree with keeping chain sharp. Wedge cuts help. If you force it you'll burn your clutch. Well, overheat, really. If you're patient, and keep the saw in its high rpm by not pressing hard you'll get it done. If you begin your cuts on the far side of the trunk at about 85 degrees and pull the saw through the highest part before lowering the bar very much, that will give you a groove when you cut from the other side. Just turn up the oiler all the way and let the bar settle in to the cut.

Hello

Due to storms I have 6 large trees down. My saw is an ECHO CS-450P with an 18 inch bar.

My trouble is that I am trying to dice up trunks that are nearly twice my bar length and even though I
cut from both sides i have trouble making the cuts meet in the middle.

My question is whether it is advisable to try to cut on the end of the log with my bar buried in the wood pointing along the tree axis then cut from the side to release these half pieces. Or any other suggestion except buying a new saw.

Thanks

 

[echomeister]

I'll get picks of the one i am working on tomorrow. Believe it or not my wife asked if I need a bigger saw.
But since I am unemployed at this time I am gonna pass on the CS-600P i have been peeking at.

I have some real widowmakers to deal with.

 

[BenK]

Agreed gents, I don't listen to the little guy on my shoulder with the halo very often. What was I thinking??
Temporary lapse in judgement. I believe a new ported husky 395 rockin a 30 something inch bar, full wrap, and of course heated handles. Base gasket delete, dual ported muffler and a timing advance.....now that should do the trick.

 

[ATH]

Are you familiar with plunge cutting? You can plunge in the center of the log work towards the outside and peek your saw's nose through then top, then work towards the bottom and do the same. Then you can go around the other side of the log and cut into those.

You've got some nasty stuff there. Can you get a tractor to pull some of that down? Do they HAVE to be cut? Not much worth dying over...and given time, they'll come down on their own. Maybe once you pick up work again, you can hire a bucket to get that stuff on the ground???

 

[ropensaddle]

I'll get picks of the one i am working on View attachment 567343 View attachment 567349 View attachment 567343 View attachment 567350 tomorrow. Believe it or not my wife asked if I need a bigger saw.
But since I am unemployed at this time I am gonna pass on the CS-600P i have been peeking at.

I have some real widowmakers to deal with.

Many ways to die there if the only choice you have is diy then get a cable or long chain on the widow makers and yank them off with a tractor or if your lucky 4 wheel drive! Cutting those trees without removing those splits can be a trap for the sawyer!! They can and will peel off as the tree falls and can and will come toward the sawyer! As always ppe

 

[Philbert]

You can rent a 20", 64cc Makita at Home Depot for about $65 per day.

Philbert

 

[echomeister]

about kickback with the bar tip buried in the wood.

I have observed that when holding horizontal the tip touches the back of the wood and kicks back pretty hard. One time it triggered the chain brake.

What I think is the solution is to angle the engine end down and bar up so that the tip only contacts the back on the lower side of the nose.

Does this sound correct?

Thanks