Sure is quiet in here....do I need to start a fight?

[Cantdog]

Musta squirted more fasta......and stuff and stuff...

 

[Cantdog]

I can over rev the engine with the aluminum prop that is on it now, I seldom run over 2/3 throttle now. The stainless prop should load the engine a bit more, may even hold er to run WOT and not over rev. The 2.3 is designed to run up to 6,000 but I only run it around 4, 000, + or -.

That 2.3 OMC unit spec. is 5200-5600 WOT.......so that is where it should run out in order for it to be propped properly at all rpms.....Hope it gets there for you or at least close....

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Oh there are many Peletiers.....Bouchards too....

Long cold winters...

 

[Jimmy in NC]

That 2.3 OMC unit spec. is 5200-5600 WOT.......so that is where it should run out in order for it to be propped properly at all rpms.....Hope it gets there for you or at least close....

Pretty much where it needs to be. WOT with normal loading in the vessel... looking for that RPM. If you get that, that's all she will do...

 

[Stihl 041S]

Lost rpm but how did it perform?

Oh much better!!!

Smiley faces didn't print. Don't sound the same without the smiley faces.

The other Buddy that did jet boats put all his "options" money in pump when he bought a new boat ......only got a used 454 in a new boat. Then built his own motor.

His cousin made the boats. Drag races against the props and won.

 

[cheeves]

Yes, since it was the boats first run I left the aluminum prop on for this trip, I will put the stainless one on for next trip and check speed against engine RPM, if the remain close to the same all will be good. I have been told to expect a slight increase in speed at the same RPM due to the less flexing of the props blades. Spendy and shiny, just have fingers crossed that it works well.

There are different grades of aluminum. As soon as aluminum is taken from the ground it tries to revert back to it's original state. Why you have structural decay in aircraft!!
We used mostly Bronze props. Damage easily but can usually be brought back to "working condition." lol Most of them are nailed to the wall up my fathers barn.

 

[pioneerguy600]

That 2.3 OMC unit spec. is 5200-5600 WOT.......so that is where it should run out in order for it to be propped properly at all rpms.....Hope it gets there for you or at least close....

I am not really overly concerned, as all it is used for is the 15 min run to the camp and the same return, no need for speed and the boat rides on plane at 3,200 RPM so its moving well at 4,000 and does a steady 22 mph at that RPM. Not looking for more speed and if it will allow the engine to run close to its max designed RPM without over revving so much the better. Just the wife and I with a few supplies in the boat so its not heavily loaded for the majority of the trips we make with it.

 

[pioneerguy600]

There are different grades of aluminum. As soon as aluminum is taken from the ground it tries to revert back to it's original state. Why you have structural decay in aircraft!!
We used mostly Bronze props. Damage easily but can usually be brought back to "working condition." lol Most of them are nailed to the wall up my fathers barn.

We had a lot of bronze props back in the 50`s and 60`s, they seemed to fall out of favor in the 70`s for aluminum props, probably cheaper to make. Never broke a bronze prop but dad did mangle up a few aluminum ones. Where he worked they had a prop shop and he could get them fixed there real cheap, balanced and all,looked good as new and no vibrating.

 

[dancan]

No poasts for hours, must be the hucikuvarrna boat conference.

 

[Cantdog]

I am not really overly concerned, as all it is used for is the 15 min run to the camp and the same return, no need for speed and the boat rides on plane at 3,200 RPM so its moving well at 4,000 and does a steady 22 mph at that RPM. Not looking for more speed and if it will allow the engine to run close to its max designed RPM without over revving so much the better. Just the wife and I with a few supplies in the boat so its not heavily loaded for the majority of the trips we make with it.

True.......on a lake it's not such an issue unless you are hotrodding/pulling skiers.....where to constant overrevving would eventually cost money. However you will find if you are properly propped your boat/engine will perform much better at all RPMs. On the ocean where my shortest regular run is 10 miles......I generally run at 3100 for a speed of 28-29 mph.....the hull runs out better at that speed at less RPMs than going a bit slower....bayliners are very light and go through the water very easy.....and another feature is you probably are running without any bottom paint...easier still. I run a hard anti fouling paint which moves through the water easier than the usual ablative type bottom paint.....still costs me 5-6 mph at top speed compared to a clean gelcoat hull.....all that had to be figgered in....

 

[pioneerguy600]

True.......on a lake it's not such an issue unless you are hotrodding/pulling skiers.....where to constant overrevving would eventually cost money. However you will find if you are properly propped your boat/engine will perform much better at all RPMs. On the ocean where my shortest regular run is 10 miles......I generally run at 3100 for a speed of 28-29 mph.....the hull runs out better at that speed at less RPMs than going a bit slower....bayliners are very light and go through the water very easy.....and another feature is you probably are running without any bottom paint...easier still. I run a hard anti fouling paint which moves through the water easier than the usual ablative type bottom paint.....still costs me 5-6 mph at top speed compared to a clean gelcoat hull.....all that had to be figgered in....

No paint, just a waxed gelcoat, a go fast 3M product. I had a long talk with a very knowledgeable guy that has been immersed in the outboard scene for more than 50 years. He was a hydroplane racer that raced with the big boys up in Ontario and owned several dealerships in his life, before he retired he had owned more than 750 outboard motors. Not saying he knows everything there is to know but has a great insight into the engines power, weight, length,width and hull types, lots of in depth insight there. He actually guaranteed me that if I don`t like this prop that he will buy it off me, he still has more than 300 props at his place and still does a little business from home. He was showing me his gear for reshaping, extending, sizing and balancing props for high speed applications, polishing was an art form they all used for more speed, knife edged leading edges and slightly cupped trailing edges to give more push and prevent cavation. Lots of work went into the props on high speed craft.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

We had a lot of bronze props back in the 50`s and 60`s, they seemed to fall out of favor in the 70`s for aluminum props, probably cheaper to make. Never broke a bronze prop but dad did mangle up a few aluminum ones. Where he worked they had a prop shop and he could get them fixed there real cheap, balanced and all,looked good as new and no vibrating.

Bronze were great until people started skiing and such. Hard on gear boxes shifting in and out with the heavy wheels. A trawler or something that went into gear and stayed like that for hours or days.... no worries.

 

[Cantdog]

Bronze were great until people started skiing and such. Hard on gear boxes shifting in and out with the heavy wheels. A trawler or something that went into gear and stayed like that for hours or days.... no worries.

Bronze is still the way to go on larger full time ocean craft that have true inboard engines with a real hydraulic reduction/reverse gear/clutch system. They don't have to "bang" in and out of gear like a damn outboard or sterndrive........you can just lean on the shift lever a little to slightly engage, like riding the clutch.....much easier when tight maneuvering, like docking, picking up the mooring etc. That is one of the things I despise about sterndrives....you're either "in" or "out".......the other thing is the limited degree of turn allowed by two u-joints.....you can only bend power so far......in that respect outboards are better.....the whole motor pivots allowing for slightly sharper turning. Stihl not as good as a real rudder for directing thrust in close quarters, like docking in choppy water etc. I have seen setups where you can buy a special sterndrive that has no clutch/reverse just constant engagement....these are run buy a shaft allowing the motor to be installed forward to balance the boat better and this gives you the chance to have a conventional clutch/reverse/reduction gear. Pretty nice setups with little wear and tear on the lower unit and giving you the ability to pick the drive up when grounding out on the beach etc. like a regular sterndrive but still stuck with low maneuverability......everything is a compromise.....

 

[dancan]

Hmmmm , Huskovision tv in here , quiet ....

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Hmmmm , Huskovision tv in here , quiet ....

 

[Stihl 041S]

Bronze is still the way to go on larger full time ocean craft that have true inboard engines with a real hydraulic reduction/reverse gear/clutch system. They don't have to "bang" in and out of gear like a damn outboard or sterndrive........you can just lean on the shift lever a little to slightly engage, like riding the clutch.....much easier when tight maneuvering, like docking, picking up the mooring etc. That is one of the things I despise about sterndrives....you're either "in" or "out".......the other thing is the limited degree of turn allowed by two u-joints.....you can only bend power so far......in that respect outboards are better.....the whole motor pivots allowing for slightly sharper turning. Stihl not as good as a real rudder for directing thrust in close quarters, like docking in choppy water etc. I have seen setups where you can buy a special sterndrive that has no clutch/reverse just constant engagement....these are run buy a shaft allowing the motor to be installed forward to balance the boat better and this gives you the chance to have a conventional clutch/reverse/reduction gear. Pretty nice setups with little wear and tear on the lower unit and giving you the ability to pick the drive up when grounding out on the beach etc. like a regular sterndrive but still stuck with low maneuverability......everything is a compromise.....

And bronze casts wonderfully....

 

[Jimmy in NC]

 

[Stihl 041S]

They stihl standing?

 

[Jimmy in NC]

They stihl standing?

Yeah. First one is over 4' dbh.

Here is my hand on top dot for reference.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Someone was asking why I have a couple of long bars kicking around. I sent those photos and they understood. We have some big sticks around here.