090 Guys, how do you get clutch off?

[Spokerider]

I posted in the chainsaw section, but no bites...... Lots of 090 guru's here no doubt.

I have an 090 I'm trying to remove the clutch from. I have the service manual. It says; remove the nut, large washer and the smaller washer / ring from the crankshaft, pull clutch away.

Well, I've done all of that, but the clutch is on there solid. There really is nothing to *grab* on to be able to really pull, no holes to mount a puller. Made a few feeble attempts grabbing the shoes with needle nose pliers, but the shoes move and pliers have poor purchase.......essentially no pulling power. Prying with a screwdriver is going to damage the shoe linings.......

Heat?

Remove the shoes while the clutch is still in the drum, then attach a puller to the spider?

What method works for you?
Thanks.

 

[betterbuilt]

I personally don't know. It may be similar to the 076 I have, the clutch is threaded on. The the part with the shoes themselves can be pulled off. I have a special wrench that to take the rest off with. It's reverse threaded. You have to block the piston with a stop.

You'd have got an answer faster if you posted over in the chainsaw section. Someone will be along eventually to help you out. Don't use any heat or a puller. Best of luck.

 

[BobL]

I don't have an 090 but I have a manual

 

[Spokerider]

Thanks for the help guys.

I have it off. Took the saw up to the local stihl dealer, as he remembers working on them back in the day. He said to use a 3 jaw puller on the back of the drum. Well I had done that but was reluctant to torque the puller nut too much for fear of bending and ruining the drum.

Anyway, back home I put the puller on again and cranked it just a little more than before. Tap, tap with the ball peen, leave it for 15 minutes under tension. Came back after 15 min, 1/4 more turn, tap tap, leave for another 15. 3rd time she popped off. The drum lived. I knew it was a friction fit holding it on with that "speith adapter".

Next, I'm going to attempt to change the crank seal on the clutch side with out splitting the case and removing the crank. Drill a small hole in the metal part of the seal and insert self-tapping screw......and pull? I don't have that fancy seal puller that pulls from the inside diameter of the seal / crank interface.

 

[TPA]

I would drill the hole as a last resort. You can slot the side of a screwdriver, insert the screwdriver near the shaft then rotate to engage the slot you ground in the side, then pull.

If you drill a hole, you run the risk of getting shavings in the bearings.

 

[Spokerider]

I would drill the hole as a last resort. You can slot the side of a screwdriver, insert the screwdriver near the shaft then rotate to engage the slot you ground in the side, then pull.

If you drill a hole, you run the risk of getting shavings in the bearings.

Yes, the slotted screwdriver trick. I've read about it, but never tried it. What size screwdriver would work? 3/16ths wide blade? Smaller?

Never thought about the drill shavings.........good point.

 

[TPA]

Different sizes for different seals. You use a grinder (I use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel) to thin a screwdriver and cut the slot, and fit it to the seal. I suppose about 3-4 sizes would cover most saws.

 

[harrygrey382]

Wow, amazed no one who's worked on one chimed in... What you were fighting was the spieth sleeve - as bob's extract tells you. Using a puller is the easiest way but you can easily ruin a drum (splined drums aren't too common, but they are available new aftermarket here). I generally use two screw drivers, but have been meaning to make a special puller to reduce stress on the drum. When you tighten the clutch nut it expands it. Good reason to torque it to spec when putting it back on - too tight and it's worse to get off, too loose and it slips. They're not ideal, and IMO the most irritating thing about 1106s, sure puts you off changing a sprocket!

With the seal - you don't need to drill a hole to use a self tapper. It's my most used method with awkward seals - tap it in to start then push hard with the screw driver

 

[Spokerider]

Yes, my concern with using the 3 jaw puller on the edge of the drum, was that I was going to warp it. Thus, my cautious / time-induced method. It worked and the sprocket lived..........this time. If the puller pulled from where the shaft goes through, it would be much better, but they don't, the jaws only grab onto the edge. Having some kind of a rigid plate back there to put the load on the shaft area would be good. Would have to make something that works with the 3 puller jaws and goes on / back there easily. Will have to think on it........

Getting the seal out was a butcher job.
Tried the the awl / drywall screw trick........no way. With just the smallest hole made with the awl, I inserted the fine thread drywall screw, and pulled. It just pulled out. I even tapped the seal on the opposite side a bit deeper into the case just to free it up, but it still pulled out in the next attempt in a new hole. 2 holes and zip.

Onto the slotted screw driver...........
Made the hook with a 3/16ths flat blade, insert, pull with all my might and it wouldn't budge. Repeat multiple times around the seal. Then decided to "lever" the seal out with the driver hook, but the hook just broke off inside. Re-grind another hook in the now-shorter screwdriver and try again.......it finally popped out! I was almost ready to admit defeat and split the case. Yes, I got the broken piece out.
Tapping the new seal in, and it got off to a bad start. Went in a bit askew, and when I wriggled it back out, I put a slight dimple / wavy dip on the flat metal surface of the seal, maybe 1mm deep. Decided it still looked good enough to do the job and proceeded. Saw fires up and idles well. If it doesn't last.......I'll be doing it again! lol.