AUSSIE1
Al.
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Because Steve it doesn't spend all day in a log!
Al.
Al.
372xp Bar size ?
- Thread starter nickg
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SawTroll
Information Collector
That is the core of the question at hand - balance (and weight) matters a lot for some applications/situations, and to a much lesser degree (if at all) for other applications/situations.
Because of that, the issue is almost impossible to discuss in a meaningful way....
....and without......
oke: :sword:
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stevethekiwi
Addicted to ArboristSite
Marc
Addicted to ArboristSite
I run a 24" bar on mine with a full comp chain. I haven't done a tremendous amount of cutting with it, but so far I like it.
I'm kinda cheap in some ways, and I didn't really want to spend the $$ on two size bars and chains, so I just went with what I thought it could run well buried in New England hardwoods.
So far the hardest I've cut is well cured 36" maple, and it has done very well.
Funny thing about cutting firewood in New England, if you're working in the woods, especially a less than well maintained woodlot, the trees will be tall and relatively skinny, BUT-
I do most of my cutting along fencelines, so I cut a lot of leaners, and a lot of em had the chance to get nice and fat.
I'm 6 foot and 165 lbs, and I also like not having to bend over quite as much. 24" doesn't really feel nose heavy to me... but I'm not very sensitive to that kind of thing.
Here's the saw in question:
I'm kinda cheap in some ways, and I didn't really want to spend the $$ on two size bars and chains, so I just went with what I thought it could run well buried in New England hardwoods.
So far the hardest I've cut is well cured 36" maple, and it has done very well.
Funny thing about cutting firewood in New England, if you're working in the woods, especially a less than well maintained woodlot, the trees will be tall and relatively skinny, BUT-
I do most of my cutting along fencelines, so I cut a lot of leaners, and a lot of em had the chance to get nice and fat.
I'm 6 foot and 165 lbs, and I also like not having to bend over quite as much. 24" doesn't really feel nose heavy to me... but I'm not very sensitive to that kind of thing.
Here's the saw in question:
2000ssm6
Stihl User
24-25" would be the perfect size for a 372/2171, as it would with any 70cc saw.
stevethekiwi
Addicted to ArboristSite
SawTroll
Information Collector
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danrclem
Addicted to ArboristSite
Perfect is in the hands of the beholder.
2000ssm6
Stihl User
For what use is it perfect? :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
For real men who cut real trees, with a Stihl 440 or 460, the better choices.
bowtechmadman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Guess I'm good w/ not being a real man, and really like the fact that the 18" bar doesn't have to spend very long in the cut. If you like the speed of a 70cc saw wearing 24" bar....you should try an 18" bar, now she's really got some giddyup.
I do have a 20/28 and 36" bar for the 066...do I get some manhood back w/ that?
I do have a 20/28 and 36" bar for the 066...do I get some manhood back w/ that?
2000ssm6
Stihl User
That 18" would be on the 346 or 2159 if it were mine, I keep a 16" on the 026, 20" on the 361 and 25"+ on the 440s-460s......
I never liked packing around a heavy powerhead with a small bar when I can have a lighter saw with that smaller bar. I do give ya points for the 28" 066, but not the 20", way to small for 90cc's.
I never liked packing around a heavy powerhead with a small bar when I can have a lighter saw with that smaller bar. I do give ya points for the 28" 066, but not the 20", way to small for 90cc's.
Marc
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm curious, now... I understand using a shorter bar because of the weight, but the 372 is certainly enough power to run a 24" b/c...
So if I'm cutting an 18" diameter log with my 24" b/c and you are with your 18" b/c, the only additional resistance my saw has to overcome is the extra friction of the longer bar and chain, which in my estimation, is very minimal compared to the power output of the saw at WOT.
The only other thing it would change is there's more mass to accelerate with the 24" chain so it might take a little longer to get to WOT, but how much more could the 24" chain weigh... 30% at most? 30% of a chain that probably weighs less than a pound? Is that noticeable at all either?
Not trying to sound like an ass... just thinking out loud.
HolmenTree
ArboristSite Guru
I am running a 22" Windsor guide bar [part # SVST 22 HU58] from Bailey's on my 372 ,I think this is the perfect length for this saw in small to medium timber doing firewood or tree service removal work.
SawTroll
Information Collector
A longer bar than needed makes it "easier" to hit the dirt when cutting on the ground as well.......
SWE#Kipp
Addicted to ArboristSite
scotclayshooter
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you look at what they do to race chain
And that seems fairly mild! all to lose weight
also theres less cutters to sharpen the bar and chains are cheaper
Haywire Haywood
Fiscal Conservative Social Retard
I had an 18 and a 28 for mine, but have since modded the 28 to fit the 660 that I expect to see sometime between Thanksgiving and Christmas. Still need to re-drill the oiler hole as required. I'll have to wait till the saw arrives to do that.
I run an 8 pin rim with the 18.
Ian
I run an 8 pin rim with the 18.
Ian
The best bar I found for the 372 that is balanced is the oregon pro lite 28" 
mile9socounty
Two-Stroke Swope
My best friend that I fall/fell for on the weekends runs a 36" on his 372XP. Un-modded as well. It cuts just fine for him. But every saw has its limits.
