Back In The Shop......Now What's On Your Bench????

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I also had my first experience with a blown flywheel-side seal assembly o-ring on my backup 1996 262. I thought it was just a carb adjustment it needed because I couldn't get the chain to stop turning at idle. Or maybe an old clutch spring. But when I turned it on its side when running and the rpm's changed, I knew I had bigger problems. I tore into it, did a pressure test and couldn't even get the gauge to move the leak was so bad. I finally discovered the o-ring under the flywheel seal cover was grossly leaking. I now know why I have heard people saying how nice the older metal seal covers are. This one had the white plastic version and it was REALLY warped. Fortunately I have some metal ones in the parts bin so I'll be putting that back together tomorrow with a new o-ring and crank seal.
Mine had the white plastic seal cover. It was warped so bad it leaked even with a new o ring. Duke Theiroff sent me a metal one and all is well!
 
I also had my first experience with a blown flywheel-side seal assembly o-ring on my backup 1996 262. I thought it was just a carb adjustment it needed because I couldn't get the chain to stop turning at idle. Or maybe an old clutch spring. But when I turned it on its side when running and the rpm's changed, I knew I had bigger problems. I tore into it, did a pressure test and couldn't even get the gauge to move the leak was so bad. I finally discovered the o-ring under the flywheel seal cover was grossly leaking. I now know why I have heard people saying how nice the older metal seal covers are. This one had the white plastic version and it was REALLY warped. Fortunately I have some metal ones in the parts bin so I'll be putting that back together tomorrow with a new o-ring and crank seal.

Well, I thought this was going to be a simple "swap with a metal seal holder" fix but it seems nothing is simple. I put the metal holder on with a new seal and new o-ring and pressure tested. Still leaking badly from the o-ring. Tried all kinds of things including another plastic holder and they all leaked at the o-ring. I finally figured out that the crank bearing was out too far and was preventing the seal holder from seating fully. I was able to slide a 0.005" feeler gauge between the holder and the crankcase when no oring was installed - it should have been flush. I took a deep-well socket about the size of the crank bearing and gave it a few good whacks. Now the seal holder sits flush and when put together, holds pressure and vacuum.

I found this odd because I have never done any bottom end work on this saw. It is actually the saw that first got me involved with the CAD afflicted people here when I decided I no longer wanted to be a one saw plan person.
 
Iv recently acquired a husky 359 that will soon be one the bench. It's supposed to be a runner. I know it's got a busted spot at the lower front AV mount but I pretty sure i can fix that. We'll see
 
I think I'm just gonna take it easy for awhile, I've taken apart 3 290s and have the parts in buckets sorted by clean and dirty. I clean them and put them in the clean bunch, so far there's more dirty than clean. Right now I'm trying to make two saws out of this three.
 
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Damn, this one would be nice to put on my wall [emoji28]
 
Today I broke another Torx bit so I'm done until I get another one tomorrow. Right now I have to find something big enough to soak these chainsaw parts in. I have an automotive parts washer but it's too hard to get to in my crowded shop. I use it to stack parts on..
 
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