CS-8000 Help Please, Won't Accelerate
- Thread starter jtc16
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You think it would matter if my carb was hda 45 or hda 45a to use this kit? I'm going to have to try it i think.
ANewSawyer
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If it runs choked but dies off, it is set way to lean.
My service manual says 1 turn out on the high and 1 1/4 turns out on the low. If you turn them out farther and can't get your saw rich enough the metering lever may not be set right. My manual says flush with diaphragm seat. If none of this works you have dirt in the carb or some other restriction in the fuel system. You are not getting enough fuel.
Ok I'm not sure what the metering lever is but I'll look into it. That setting is what I start at then keep richening it and can't even get it to stay idleing without going super rich. I had the carb out and blasted it with seafoam so I doubt its clogged but I suppose it could be.
As mentioned earlier have you replaced all the fuel lines and the impulse line? This is the place to start. One of the lines may have a crack.
I haven't. I will tommrow when the stores open. I shot seafoam through them though and didn't see any leaks. So basically the metering lever can't be adjusted it can just be installed wrong? That's what I gathered from the manual. I just took the carb out and looked at the meter lever I took it out and reinstalled it but didn't see a way I could adjust it. I kind of leans up it doesn't seem flush. But the spring seems set in the right position but doesn't sit straight up and down, kind of curving pushing the end of the lever up, don't know how to describe what I mean any better.
Ok check this out. #9, the connector that connects the in tank and out of tank fuel lines.. I wasn't even reconnecting it to the in tank line... I was just popping it out and back in with only the out of tank line attached. And there is a small crack in the fuel vent line.. I'll fix these problems and give her another go. The one thing I wonder about and hope someone can give me some insight into though is the screw that screws in underneath the fuel vent line. Is this supposed to be screwed all the way in tight/loose? Whats underneath it? nothing? just a hole in the tank being plugged up?
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Just ordered all fuel lines, filter, impulse line, vent line, and vent. Going to try and use the same vent cover and clip. If anyone knows anything about the screw under the vent I'd like to hear it. Thanks for all the help. Hopefully I won't end up needing to do anything to the carb after all.
ah, at last, that's where i was trying to tell you to look. did you order the grommet too? that would be item 11, i think. without the grommet the tank will leak. you install the grommet first, then push the lower fuel line, the coil shaped one, thru the grommet and into the tank. push it thru far enuff so that you can reach into the tank and grasp the end with a hemostat or needle nose pliers. pull all except the last inch into the tank and install the filter. push the connector into the lower fuel line until it just gets to the fat part. push the connector into the upper fuel line then push the connector into the grommet until the flange bottoms out on the o-ring. i'm not sure about the screw in your picture. if its in the way of the breather tube installation it may be the wrong screw, perhaps too long. if so, find a shorter screw. i recommend that you order one or two extra grommets they are used in other places in the saw. also order two or three of the tiny o-rings that are used in the oil lines and pump. good luck amigo.
I have that grommet #11, I just didn't realize I was reconnecting the in tank line. The original leak was maybe coming from the small crack in the vent line. The screw is not in the way, I just don't know if it is supposed to be screwed all the way in or what. I bet if I put it back together now it'd run, gonna wait on the parts though to find out. I can't believe the saw ran as much as it did with the fuel line not even connected. Thanks for the help.
yes, it sounds like it was sucking air, which is why i recommended a close look at that lower line and other parts. that would have caused the high speed problems. if i was doing it i wound install a new grommet with the new line, but you may not need it. i think they tend to deteriorate due to e10. no problem, glad i could help.
yes, shipping can kill you whether its on the front end like ebay or back end like others. i've found its usually cheaper to order extra stuff that you might need instead of paying double when you find out what you need.
partstree isn't too bad on shipping compared to some others. i like the fact that they ship 1st class or priority usps. as long as you're paying $2.62 for shipping, get two.
i hear you, by the way, sometimes any vendor will be slow to get echo parts to you. if partstree has them in stock they'll be in your mail box in a few days. if they're back ordered prepare for a wait. it seems to be a problem with echo. i usually call on the phone and ask it they're in stock before i order, then find another vendor that has what i need if necessary, pain in the ass.
