How to remove an ms 290 cylinder

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You got to take it allllll the waaaay down .....

The 'A' plan: Remember that, in addition to the 4 bolts on the bottom, you need to remove the rear bar stud to free the engine assembly. Then you just life, tilt and slide it out ....

The 'B' plan: Put that powerhead in a large bucket with a pound of Tannerite. Place bucket in remote empty field. Hit Tannerite from safe distance with the centerfire round of your choice.
 
Like said above, you pretty much have to disassemble the whole saw. It's really not that hard, just time consuming. There are four bolts from the bottom AND the rear bar stud needs to be removed to get the whole block out.
 
You got to take it allllll the waaaay down .....

The 'A' plan: Remember that, in addition to the 4 bolts on the bottom, you need to remove the rear bar stud to free the engine assembly. Then you just life, tilt and slide it out ....

The 'B' plan: Put that powerhead in a large bucket with a pound of Tannerite. Place bucket in remote empty field. Hit Tannerite from safe distance with the centerfire round of your choice.

plan B sounds a whole lot more entertaining, efficient, and realistic to me :)
 
That's what I want to do just remove the cylinder. I haven't had much time to play with it. I'm guessing four bolts from the bottom like the husky clamshells.
Take a few pics if you or mind, I would like to see this.
Russ
 
That's what I want to do just remove the cylinder. I haven't had much time to play with it. I'm guessing four bolts from the bottom like the husky clamshells.
Yes......exactly.
You pretty much have to strip the entire saw to get to that point, but yes.
Gotta pull flywheel & clutch/oiler etc
 
That's what I want to do just remove the cylinder. I haven't had much time to play with it. I'm guessing four bolts from the bottom like the husky clamshells.
You'll still have to disassemble the entire saw. Leaving the bottom cap in the chassis will only serve to make it more difficult to properly clean, thereby increasing the likelihood of an air leak. I'd recommend just removing the stud with a pair of Vise Grips and install a new stud when going back together. You'll also need new crank seals and a tube of fuel proof sealant, not silicone. Do it right...do it once.
 
I have tried it both ways and Brad(above) is giving you some good advice. No reason to leave that cap in the saw and try to effectively clean and reseal it. I would put bearings in as well.
 
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