How to remove an ms 290 cylinder

[cedarshark]

And none of them are in my garage Yes, I'm a chainsaw snob, lol.

There has been some in the shop....you just locked the doors and covered the windows.

 

[blsnelling]

There has been some in the shop....you just locked the doors and covered the windows.

The first saw I ever bought was a Stihl 039. I thought it was a pro saw and was very proud to own it. It was actually capable of cutting all the wood I used to heat my house at that time. It was only after I joined here that I learned otherwise. So, I had to sell that cheap junker and buy a real saw, lol

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

So, I had to sell that cheap junker and buy a real saw, lol

Your first Husky?

 

[blsnelling]

Your first Husky?

I replaced it with a 360 and then with a 361. My first Husky came later, which was a 346, and is perhaps my favorite saw.

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

Crossed over to the dark side...LUKE I am your fawtha!



Now can we get back to disassembling this saw

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Honestly, the shittiest part of tearing an 1127 down is popping the flywheel

 

[HarleyT]

Naaah, just use a deep 13mm impact socket, back the nut off a turn, then while holding the flywheel in the left hand, smack the impact socket with a hammer with common sense.

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

Honestly, the shittiest part of tearing an 1127 down is popping the flywheel

I started on clamshells. After I graduated to pro saws, I honestly wished I'd crossed over sooner.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Naaah, just use a deep 13mm impact socket, back the nut off a turn, then while holding the flywheel in the left hand, smack the impact socket with a hammer with common sense.

Well yeah
But that's the shittiest part

 

[cedarshark]

I have the clutch pulling tool so that's pretty easy. But there is no tool for working with that nasty Dirko. Switched to ThreeBond on the last Echo clammie and that is better.

 

[HarleyT]

The earliest 029s had the cylinder bolts in so tight with locktight, the heads would break off...

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I have the clutch pulling tool so that's pretty easy. But there is no tool for working with that nasty Dirko. Switched to ThreeBond on the last Echo clammie and that is better.

see my earlier post in this thread

 

[HarleyT]

I have the clutch pulling tool so that's pretty easy. But there is no tool for working with that nasty Dirko. Switched to ThreeBond on the last Echo clammie and that is better.

What does the clutch tool look like? I just use a 19mm socket on my impact wrench.

 

[cedarshark]

What does the clutch tool look like? I just use a 19mm socket on my impact wrench.

Sorry ..meant the flywheel puller. The outer barrel of the flywheel puller screws into the threads on the flywheel. The barrel is threaded and contains a bolt you wind in, it seats on the crankshaft. You continue running the bolt in, and it forces the flywheel off.

 

[HarleyT]

Sorry ..meant the flywheel puller. The outer barrel of the flywheel puller screws into the threads on the flywheel. The barrel is threaded and contains a bolt you wind in, it seats on the crankshaft. You continue running the bolt in, and it forces the flywheel off.

Not for pulling the flywheel on the 029/ms290 series, but a great tool otherwise.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

You don't need anything other than a hammer to remove that flywheel, after you have the top cover off the saw just turn the flywheel until the non-magnet side is up and smack it on that edge with your hammer, it pops right off. I don't remember how many clamshells I've rebuilt this year but the 290 in my opinion is easier with the whole engine out. The most time consuming part of it is the clean up, most of the saws I get in aren't very clean.

 

[Terry Syd]

I never wanted to raise the transfers on a o39 jug, but I was wondering if anyone ever thinned the bridge between the two transfer ports in order to increase the time/area? (in other words, don't port the rear transfer and run into problems with the ring gap, just open up the front transfer - and reduce some turbulence between the two transfer ports)

I've noticed that the open transfer port jugs usually have a significant wear area on the rings where they move across the bridge between the transfers. I expect this is because the bridge is cooled from both sides of the bridge and the metal hasn't expanded outward as much.

Even if the thinner bridge did have the same expansion rate, it would mean a smaller wear pattern on the rings that allows blow-by. It seems a logical mod, but I haven't done it to see if there are other problems that might arise. Has anyone thinned the bridge and can report back?

Oh, and I hate working on these saws. The flywheel isn't the problem for me, its the gawd damn pulling the wiring harness and impulse line through the freaking piece of plastic that tries my patience.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Maybe it was just my imagination but it seems to me the 390 piston was more difficult to replace than the 290s and 250s I've worked on. The rings seemed harder to compress and fit the piston in place for some reason. The MS 250 doesn't even need the rings compressed, just push the piston in. The 290 and 390 have the taper in the bottom of the cylinder but it doesn't help the install like the 250 does. Maybe a bit of assembly grease on the ribs might help?

 

[cedarshark]

Seems most clamshells have the tapered cylinder and claim not to need a ring compressor to install the cylinder. I don't trust the taper and would prefer to use a compressor because I feel I have more control of the rings. So I prefer the engine to be out of the saw. Most of the time, I like the cylinder in a vice, and install the piston from the bottom with the rings compressed. Just me , I guess. Like most things, more than one way to skin the cat.

 

[HarleyT]

The MS 250 doesn't even need the rings compressed, just push the piston in.

Especially if you accidently install the 42 mm version..........