Huskee 22

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firemanmarc

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2006
Messages
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Location
Geneva,OH
I recently purchased a gently used Huskee 22ton splitter. My question is has anyone shortened the stroke with anything. I always cut 16-18" and would love to shorten the stroke somehow. Thank you Marc
 
I recently purchased a gently used Huskee 22ton splitter. My question is has anyone shortened the stroke with anything. I always cut 16-18" and would love to shorten the stroke somehow. Thank you Marc
There are stroke limiters and they have been mentioned here. Do a search for them.
 
I recently purchased a gently used Huskee 22ton splitter. My question is has anyone shortened the stroke with anything. I always cut 16-18" and would love to shorten the stroke somehow. Thank you Marc

Don't pull the handle all the way back?
 
Is your splitter a wedge on beam or fixed plate on beam?
There is a guy on YouTube who used stroke limiters (on a TW-2 I think) and had problems. If I remember right his push plate or wedge screwed onto the cylinder rod. Using the stroke limiters stripped those rod threads and he had to replace the cylinder.
I used the stroke limiters for many years on an old Speeco with push fixed wedge. The push plate was fastened with a bolt through the cylinder rod end. It sheared one bolt per year from wear, which was probably due to the stroke limiters. If yours is set up with a bolt, I would suggest you use a soft low grade bolt as a sacrificial fastener to protect the cylinder rod.
 
The pin idea sounds great. I've used those clip on limiters on farm cylinders and messed up a few because of them. I will look at it good this weekend and try to get pictures of what I do. Thank you
 
drill a hole in your beam behind where you want the pusher to stop. drop in a Pin, done. The Slide will hit the pin and stop instead of pushing those stroke limiters into the gland face
I tried that with a steel plate on the beam. Seemed to stress the push plate/rod connection because the stop, the steel plate, was off center from the rod. There was enough slop in the push plate to tip up a bit front to back.
 
I recently purchased a gently used Huskee 22ton splitter. My question is has anyone shortened the stroke with anything. I always cut 16-18" and would love to shorten the stroke somehow. Thank you Marc

Tie/fasten a block of wood to the foot.
 
Is your splitter a wedge on beam or fixed plate on beam?
There is a guy on YouTube who used stroke limiters (on a TW-2 I think) and had problems. If I remember right his push plate or wedge screwed onto the cylinder rod. Using the stroke limiters stripped those rod threads and he had to replace the cylinder.
I used the stroke limiters for many years on an old Speeco with push fixed wedge. The push plate was fastened with a bolt through the cylinder rod end. It sheared one bolt per year from wear, which was probably due to the stroke limiters. If yours is set up with a bolt, I would suggest you use a soft low grade bolt as a sacrificial fastener to protect the cylinder rod.

I kept breaking the soft ones, tried grade 8. Broke that. Figured that using something that puts that much strain on things is "not a good idea". Haven't used them since.
 
I tried that with a steel plate on the beam. Seemed to stress the push plate/rod connection because the stop, the steel plate, was off center from the rod. There was enough slop in the push plate to tip up a bit front to back.
The pressure on the auto return can be reduced. It only needs enough psi to drop the valve into detent. Of course, everything wears out sooner or later.
 
Post 11 has no link, but I searched the title and found it. I think you are referring to the cyl stripping out of the clevis. In part two, the guy said timberwolf told him the auto cycle valve only worked if the cyl fully retracted. To that I say BS. The autodetent is a function of the control valve, the cyl doesnt care where it is at. If the detent release pressure had been checked and set properly, the cyl rod would not have stripped out of the clevis. It takes a lot of pressure to strip the rod out of a clevis. The way I set my detent pressure on my machine was pretty simple, I simply adjusted it to where the cyl had enough power to retract fully and stop movement at the slighted amount of resistance. I would venture to guess that most of the damaged gland and rod caps you hear about are also caused by an improperly adjusted detent relief.
 
Post 11 has no link, but I searched the title and found it. I think you are referring to the cyl stripping out of the clevis. In part two, the guy said timberwolf told him the auto cycle valve only worked if the cyl fully retracted. To that I say BS. The autodetent is a function of the control valve, the cyl doesnt care where it is at. If the detent release pressure had been checked and set properly, the cyl rod would not have stripped out of the clevis. It takes a lot of pressure to strip the rod out of a clevis. The way I set my detent pressure on my machine was pretty simple, I simply adjusted it to where the cyl had enough power to retract fully and stop movement at the slighted amount of resistance. I would venture to guess that most of the damaged gland and rod caps you hear about are also caused by an improperly adjusted detent relief.


I think I would have to agree with that, or somewhat agree at least.

I just went thru an adjusting session with mine. Last year, it wouldn't stay in detent. So I did the 'turn the spool 180°' trick, and it seemed to work good for the rest of the year (I think this splitter has seen a lot of wood). This year, it started doing the opposite. Wouldn't kick off. Seemed to be a gradual thing - a bit worse each time out. About the time it got to the point of seriously loading the engine, it blew a hose. Hose was old & ready for it, but likely good I had that weak spot - also good the oil went away from me. When I replaced the hose, I figured out how to adjust the detent and did that. Happy times again. But the splitter can put as much pressure on whatever it's up against (that can be where the wedge is fastened or on the rod cap if you use those bolt on stroke limiters, or if you have a dirt buildup), on the return stroke, as the push stroke, if the detent isn't adjusted right. Having said that - improper adjustment should be apparent to the operator if he's paying attention. I wasn't, at first. I still don't know why it went out of adjustment - but my oil was a mess, full of water. Looked like cotton candy. I changed that at the same time too along with the filter. So we'll see. Might end up un-adjusting it, not much run time on the changes yet.
 
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