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Husqvarna 268 won't restart after running

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by pyro2, Mar 21, 2010.

  1. pyro2

    pyro2 ArboristSite Lurker

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    I am having major problems with my Husqvarna 268 this year. Never had a problem with it in years past, until I get the chain sharpened this year and need it for a big project! That's probably the cause.

    I spend about 30 minutes getting it started once. Once I do, I shut it off and it will not restart. To start it, I usually have to turn the saw upside down with the plug out and pull the cord 15-20 times. Then I can start it with about 3/4 chock and NO throttle. I get about 2-3 times to try to start it from here. If it doesn't start, I have to start all over.

    I have tried playing with the carb adjustments. Factory default is 1 turn. I think it is flooding so I went to 2/3 of a turn (which seems to be running good when its going).


    I did a compression test and its about 160 psi. There is no decompression valve and is extremely hard to pull the first time due to the high compression. After that it gets a lot easier, which I don't understand why. The only time it has started is right away when its very tough to pull the starter cord.

    I cleaned the carb last night, but didn't find anything gummed up. Its still apart and not sure what else I should look at. I have tried multiple spark plugs. I replaced the generator coil as the spark was originally weak. Now its fine with new coil.

    Any ideas. I feel like its "flooding" but I don't know how. I'm not even giving it any throttle. I used to have to "latch" the throttle mid way and choke it and it would start right up.

    :help:
    Thx
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2010
  2. HiOctane

    HiOctane Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Take a pressure test on your carb.Should hold 8-9 lbs for at least a minute or two.Check the inlet tip condition,be sure the the inlet lever is flush with the body.Another thing,check if welch plugs are not leaking too.If the engine is hard to pull,its probably due to gas accumulation in the engine.
     
  3. lone wolf

    lone wolf Tree Freak

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    I would do a pressure/vac test on the engine to make sure no air leaks causing this problem.
     
  4. pyro2

    pyro2 ArboristSite Lurker

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    I need to buy a pressure pump to check the carb for leaks.

    Wouldn't any air leaks be present with the compression test? I don't know how to test for air leaks in the engine other than the compression test.
     
  5. lone wolf

    lone wolf Tree Freak

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    [​IMG]
    this is a pressure test being done on a stihl it will give you an idea you hve to block intake and exaust ports with metal plates you make and seal with bike innertube then use a pressure tester to see if it holds.
     
  6. Kennygee

    Kennygee ArboristSite Operative

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    Two other things to check Is that main valve/float whatcha ma call it is set level with carb base also that tank vent is not plugged with spider wed, mud daubber etc. If tank vent is pluggeg it will cause pressure build up in tank forcing fuel into carb. Loosen gas cap and if You hear a hissing noise check tank vent.
     
  7. pyro2

    pyro2 ArboristSite Lurker

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    Tank pressure is a good suggestion, since I did notice that when the carb was opened up I saw fuel coming in through the hose even though the carb was above the tank. It would only do that when I tilted the saw back and forth slightly. However I don't hear/feel any pressure in the tank. I'll double check the vent line. I do have an old Poulan that does exactly this.

    I don't think I'm going to do the cylinder air test since it seems pretty involved to block off those ports. I don't really see what that tells me that the compression test doesn't. It doesn't sound like the results of that test are easy to fix and may just give me confirmation to trash the saw.

    I just got it started and ran it for about 20 min. It has an enormous amount of power. Ran great at high speed and idle. Adjusted carbs a bit (made leaner). But as soon as it stopped, I can't get it going again. If I wait long enough, maybe it will start.
     
  8. NEP

    NEP ArboristSite Operative

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    Its a very common problem with Husqvarnas when they are getting old.

    Its the carburetor causing the problem.

    Sometimes a new membrane set can solve the problem, but not always. You might have to get a new carburetor.
     
  9. pyro2

    pyro2 ArboristSite Lurker

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    I ordered a carb rebuild kit. I didn't take the needle and spring off last time I cleaned it, but will now need to when replacing it. Would you agree with my theory that the engine is flooding? Again, only reason I think that is that I am sometimes able to start it after cycling the piston with no plug installed (upside down) and/or letting it sit for a while. I also give it NO gas when starting anymore.

    Should it be possible to dump fuel into the cylinder and start it? I usually do this on larger engines when the carb is clogged, but I haven't been able to successfully do that on this saw. I know it doesn't make sense if I am suspecting it is flooded, but I just wanted to find out if its works for this saw.
     
  10. lone wolf

    lone wolf Tree Freak

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    if you pressure /vac test it you will at least have eliminated that do it while you wait for the kit.
     
  11. Freehand

    Freehand YourPasswordIsInvalid

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    Is your plug coming up wet?That's the sure sign of flooding.....
     
  12. lone wolf

    lone wolf Tree Freak

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    keep in mind its possible to have more than one problem with a saw.
     
  13. pyro2

    pyro2 ArboristSite Lurker

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    Well I found the solution to my problem - I'm an idiot.

    My father came over and helped take a look at it. Before installing the carb rebuild kit, he checked the spark plug gap which I assured him I checked before and that it was correct. After checking it again, the gap was 1.0mm, its supposed to be 0.5mm. Opps!

    Adjusted it down to 0.5mm and started right up. Runs great now. Can lock the throttle like normal and has no problem.

    So it was most likely getting just a little too much gas for the large gap and would put the spark out.

    Anyways, thanks for the help.
     
  14. hanniedog

    hanniedog Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Nothing better than a second set eyes to help solve a problem.
     
  15. snapperman

    snapperman ArboristSite Lurker

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    I've got the same problem with the same saw. I'll have to check the gap myself too! Gotta love this place.
     
  16. ZeroJunk

    ZeroJunk Addicted to ArboristSite

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  17. Brmorgan

    Brmorgan Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Ya I was going to suggest swapping the plug out since one running outside its heat range will also not want to fire once it's hot, but a gap that large will do it too. Glad it was cheap & easy for you; hope you didn't pull too much hair out first!
     

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