Husqvarna 372AT (or maybe 572)?

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I remember reading posts from you a couple years back when I was researching my 372 purchase. You were saying then that Husqvarna was very close to releasing the new model. That seems like an awfully long time to test a new model. Not bagging on ya, just saying.

I would HOPE that since (I gather?) it's like an enlarged version of the 550/562 architecture, and they've had some problems with those, that they are making the updates to the new 70cc saw that they've had to make to the 550/562, before even comes out... One can hope, anyway...

Those who actually held/ran them: were they lighter than the 372?

Mike
 
I would HOPE that since (I gather?) it's like an enlarged version of the 550/562 architecture, and they've had some problems with those, that they are making the updates to the new 70cc saw that they've had to make to the 550/562, before even comes out... One can hope, anyway...

Those who actually held/ran them: were they lighter than the 372?

Mike

Same power as a 372, but smaller and lighter with no knobs to fool with; sounds like a win to me.
 
You likely are right about the colors - the 560 test saws were orange with a gray top cover.

An outboard clutch always is superior to an inboard, but it matters less on a large saw than on a small one - unless the bar is both short and relatively heavy. The point is that it matters less with long bars than with short ones, so I understand that PNW guys like the inboard. After all it takes a couple of seconds less to change the chain, and maybe 10 seconds less to change the rim - unless you loose some of the small parts that needs to be removed to get there.
There are no such issues with a fairly recent Husky outboard - just knock the clutch off and change or clean whatever you want. No e-clips or washers to loose.

Also, the outboard keeps the PTO side of the saw cooler, and is more maintenance friendly.

Inboards really are outdated at this point, but the saw brands have to deliver what snowed down users demands...

I'm still confused how a outboard clutch makes maintenance easier. You have to put a piston stop in and have a tool for the clutch (some models). With an inboard you remove an eclip and your done. Way easier.
 
I'm still confused how a outboard clutch makes maintenance easier. You have to put a piston stop in and have a tool for the clutch (some models). With an inboard you remove an eclip and your done. Way easier.
Ya I don't understand either. I know inboard clutch works well for me.
 
I'm still confused how a outboard clutch makes maintenance easier. You have to put a piston stop in and have a tool for the clutch (some models). With an inboard you remove an eclip and your done. Way easier.

First, you don't need a piston stop or any other special tool to remove the clutch on a fairly modern outboard clutch Husky etc. - all takes is a something to use as a drift and something to hit the drift sharply with. There are recesses in the clutch to place the drift in.
There aren't any e-clip or other small parts to loose in the process.

Second, proper maintenance will include cleaning and inspection behind (inside) an inboard clutch, so it has to come off anyway - the e-clip only provides partial access.

This isn't a "biggie" though, and far from the main reasons that outboard clutches are preferable to inboards.
 
After a few years of cutting I will take a inboard clutch EVERY time. When you pinch a saw [not if] good luck getting the bar/chain off of a outboard clutch to save a powerhead when dropping trees. Chain installs and rim changes are so much simpler. I have had 0 issues with either clutch so I don't understand the outboard clutch advantage and have never seen a advantage to one. Lots of disadvantages. CJ
 
First, you don't need a piston stop or any other special tool to remove the clutch on a fairly modern outboard clutch Husky etc. - all takes is a something to use as a drift and something to hit the drift sharply with. There are recesses in the clutch to place the drift in.
There aren't any e-clip or other small parts to loose in the process.

Second, proper maintenance will include cleaning and inspection behind (inside) an inboard clutch, so it has to come off anyway - the e-clip only provides partial access.

This isn't a "biggie" though, and far from the main reasons that outboard clutches are preferable to inboards.

When it comes to keeping a saw "clean", I find it better to have the brake band exposed (one vote for the outboard type). There is, however, all of the extra stuff in the way which is a pain (one vote against the outboard). Changing drive sprockets is much simpler & easier with the inboard (vote #2 against the outboard). Removing a stuck powerhead & bar is much easier with an inboard (sometimes not even doable with an outboard without damaging something). This the last & most important reason why my preference remains for the inboard.
 
I agree with Sawtroll , no big deal to remove outboard clutch at all. Seriosly, how do half you guys remove a spark plug . ANY screwdriver like the one that came the saw and a frickin Rock can knock off outboard clutch. Now inboards are great till you're over 40 and that clip falls out of your sight lmao . Just ordered 550XPG with superior outboard clutch [emoji2]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I agree with Sawtroll , no big deal to remove outboard clutch at all. Seriosly, how do half you guys remove a spark plug . ANY screwdriver like the one that came the saw and a frickin Rock can knock off outboard clutch. Now inboards are great till you're over 40 and that clip falls out of your sight lmao . Just ordered 550XPG with superior outboard clutch [emoji2]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have a big old magnet handy, or directly on whatever I am prying the clip off with. It wont go flying with a strong magnet on it.

Also one of those big magnets people use on job sites to pick screws out of driveways is handy to have n the shop.
 
I have a big old magnet handy, or directly on whatever I am prying the clip off with. It wont go flying with a strong magnet on it.

Also one of those big magnets people use on job sites to pick screws out of driveways is handy to have n the shop.

I used to carry spare e-clips when I used inboard clutch saws in the woods.

The main downside of the inboards are the effect they have on the handling of the saws, by putting the bar further out on the side - further from the centre of gravity. The more technical ones (heat dispersion and load on the crank + clutch side bearing) are more marginal - but they are there if you provoke them.

Then there are the maintenance/chain swap/sprocket swap factors. They go both ways, and for a large part are a matter of what the operator is used to.
 
The main downside of the inboards are the effect they have on the handling of the saws, by putting the bar further out on the side - further from the centre of gravity.

My common sense tells me, that the energy of a spinning clutch located closer to the center of gravity (inboard) has more positive effect on handling than an outboard clutch where the rotating mass is further from the center of gravity (mass of the clutch versus the chain). Just thinking...
When limbing, bar length has more effect on nimbleness in my opinion.

Sent from my DMC-CM1 using Tapatalk
 
My common sense tells me, that the energy of a spinning clutch located closer to the center of gravity (inboard) has more positive effect on handling than an outboard clutch where the rotating mass is further from the center of gravity (mass of the clutch versus the chain). Just thinking...
When limbing, bar length has more effect on nimbleness in my opinion.

It doesn't work that way, likely because the rotation of the clutch is at least partly counteracted by the rotation of the fly wheel on the other side - and the generated forces have just a short "arm" to work on, which is minimizing the effect.
The main factors are the weight and length of the bar, and the rotation of the chain around that bar - and yes, bar length does matter, in several ways.
 
Back to topic - the wait for the "572xp", after the test saws were out several years ago.

One possibility is that they have put it on "wait", simply because the older 70cc saws still are selling well enough, and they don't want to disrupt the sales by making changing - or they just haven't found "the right moment" yet.

A more interesting possibility is of course that they have changed their mind, and are redesigning the new models into outboard clutch ones. I don't find that likely, but you can always hope...:lol::givebeer:
 
Back to topic - the wait for the "572xp", after the test saws were out several years ago.

One possibility is that they have put it on "wait", simply because the older 70cc saws still are selling well enough, and they don't want to disrupt the sales by making changing - or they just haven't found "the right moment" yet.

A more interesting possibility is of course that the have changed their mind, and are redesigning the new models into outboard clutch ones. I don't find that likely, but you can always hope...:lol::givebeer:

I'm going to suspect that since the 372 is still selling well, and there is some mistrust of the 562, which the design is likely similar to, they don't want to make the 372 unavailable until they have to, and they don't want to try and sell both at the same time, either. Hopefully, they're just working and waiting until they get ALL the bugs out of the "572" before releasing it.

Mike
 
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