If you were to buy a new saw 60 cc and under

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These are the saws on my list in no particular order, But all ported and 16-18" bar

stihl 261
362

husky 550
555
562

jred2253
2260

dolmar
5105
6100

solo
656
665
Any other to consider? If you have one let me know what you like/dislike in the tree pictured.
 
Well first thing that comes to mind is you can keep the paint on the clutch cover on the Stihls!!! And they probably will last alot longer also
 
These are the saws on my list in no particular order, But all ported and 16-18" bar

stihl 261
362

husky 550
555
562

jred2253
2260

dolmar
5105
6100
Any other to consider? If you have one let me know what you like/dislike in the tree pictured.
If you trully are going to stick to one firewood saw, (I don't believe you will) go for the MS 362 R C-M with 20" E and RM. Some other points to consider are that field and fence row trees are a whole different animal than forest trees or trimming the top of a yard tree from a bucket truck. Trees that are allowed to "spread out" when grown outside of the forest canopy will tend to have more knotty, dense trunks. Also, having the option to fell all from one side without "back barring" is really nice when in a fence row. Think about it, say your starting your notch cut, back barred, and hit wire or nails. You'd have a kick back.
 
If you trully are going to stick to one firewood saw, (I don't believe you will) go for the MS 362 R C-M with 20" E and RM. Some other points to consider are that field and fence row trees are a whole different animal than forest trees or trimming the top of a yard tree from a bucket truck. Trees that are allowed to "spread out" when grown outside of the forest canopy will tend to have more knotty, dense trunks. Also, having the option to fell all from one side without "back barring" is really nice when in a fence row. Think about it, say your starting your notch cut, back barred, and hit wire or nails. You'd have a kick back.

The one saw plan was to get people to focus on the question, I take 3 minimum to cut wood. I just want a nice new "go to" saw that can handle a whole tree efficiently. Every saw is better suited for one end of the tree or the other, I am just trying to find the best middle ground.
 
The one saw plan was to get people to focus on the question, I take 3 minimum to cut wood. I just want a nice new "go to" saw that can handle a whole tree efficiently. Every saw is better suited for one end of the tree or the other, I am just trying to find the best middle ground.
The awesome ported 362c
 
To keep it limited to a 18" bar I wouldn't use a 60cc saw. Not sure maybe thats what a 60cc Stihl pulls best. ;)
Only 4 or 5 cuts at 18" then the rest really doesn't need even a 50 cc saw.
I'd use my top handle Echo 271 for everything up to about 5". The rest would be quick work for the WWS 2253. My WWS 2260 cuts as well as a ported 70cc saw. Not needed for only a few cuts. All but the 271 running 3/8 full comp chain.
The small top handle makes climbing around and manipulating branches much easier. The 271 will easily cut 12", just not as quickly as a bigger saw. So if there is only one or two 12" cuts, I just use it, instead of going to get another saw.
If I'm going to cut cookies the 2260 is fun, but for my work, I like to keep saws small as possible.
 
Is it common practice to use smaller saw's where you are from? Nothing wrong with that just curious.

Ideally I am looking for a light saw to run 18" Strong. Am I wrong for looking a 50-60cc range?

Thank you.
I just don't go conform with the run for the monster saw to cut down most trees. I understand completetly the thrill and so forth of having the "mega" power in your hands, but at the end of the day I still have my firewood with out a single miss and didn't save about 5 minutes overall cutting time with the "mega" saw..... :crazy2: ( I know I should be banned for all this evil talk!:hi:)

Although just to clarify I am no pro. If I was a pro doing this 24/7 I would get the lightest/strongest/fastet/etc. saw out there. For me a nice reliable 60cc saw is more than enough for most trees in the 20-25 inch range. I have no problem with cutting from both sides and prefer less weight threw out the day. And anyone out there telling me that they are going to be faster cutting up limbs(like in the pic) with a 60 or 70cc saw compared to a nice 40cc saw is simply suffering from serious dilusions!

7
 
To keep it limited to a 18" bar I wouldn't use a 60cc saw. Not sure maybe thats what a 60cc Stihl pulls best. ;)
Only 4 or 5 cuts at 18" then the rest really doesn't need even a 50 cc saw.
I'd use my top handle Echo 271 for everything up to about 5". The rest would be quick work for the WWS 2253. My WWS 2260 cuts as well as a ported 70cc saw. Not needed for only a few cuts. All but the 271 running 3/8 full comp chain.
The small top handle makes climbing around and manipulating branches much easier. The 271 will easily cut 12", just not as quickly as a bigger saw. So if there is only one or two 12" cuts, I just use it, instead of going to get another saw.
If I'm going to cut cookies the 2260 is fun, but for my work, I like to keep saws small as possible.

Would love to hear more about the wws2253.?
 
I just don't go conform with the run for the monster saw to cut down most trees. I understand completetly the thrill and so forth of having the "mega" power in your hands, but at the end of the day I still have my firewood with out a single miss and didn't save about 5 minutes overall cutting time with the "mega" saw..... :crazy2: ( I know I should be banned for all this evil talk!:hi:)

Although just to clarify I am no pro. If I was a pro doing this 24/7 I would get the lightest/strongest/fastet/etc. saw out there. For me a nice reliable 60cc saw is more than enough for most trees in the 20-25 inch range. I have no problem with cutting from both sides and prefer less weight threw out the day. And anyone out there telling me that they are going to be faster cutting up limbs(like in the pic) with a 60 or 70cc saw compared to a nice 40cc saw is simply suffering from serious dilusions!

7

I was banned from a different site for saying the same.... Be careful.
 
I would look for a non-Strato design, since having less complexity and better longevity.
Complexity - what, that extra throttle plate? Lol - the thing that is cool about strato is that it has no additional moving parts and works purely on the shape of the ports. Some of the newer ones don't even have the extra throttle plate.

Personally I see nothing in that tree that a dolmar 421, husqvarna 543 or stihl 241 could not easily tackle. The trunk might need a few moments longer but the limbing part will be much faster!
I agree - I read this and then saw the example tree. Yawn. Is cutting stuff like this for firewood what everyone thinks requires a big expensive pro saw? I mean, we're not talking about a firewood business, just cutting up a couple little trees. I'd get out one of the GZ4000 clones with an 18" lo pro bar and never give it a second thought. Or maybe one of the plastic Poulans.
 
Complexity - what, that extra throttle plate? Lol - the thing that is cool about strato is that it has no additional moving parts and works purely on the shape of the ports. Some of the newer ones don't even have the extra throttle plate.

I agree - I read this and then saw the example tree. Yawn. Is cutting stuff like this for firewood what everyone thinks requires a big expensive pro saw? I mean, we're not talking about a firewood business, just cutting up a couple little trees. I'd get out one of the GZ4000 clones with an 18" lo pro bar and never give it a second thought. Or maybe one of the plastic Poulans.

No, I just want a pro saw. Not a need.
Thank you for your opinion.
 
No, I just want a pro saw. Not a need.
And there's nothing wrong with that. I found the thread interesting as it gives perspective on what people use their saws for and what people see as a required tool.

You should just get the saw you want, as it is not a need and you won't be able to rationalize it as such - and just about anything would cut that stuff fine.
 
I can't compare every saw listed so far but I can tell you what's worked for me. I cut CA Coastal Live Oaks that look like a 60' bird nest of small limbs on top of a 2'-4' diameter trunk. For years I used just an MS 260pro. Then I moved to a 346xp and then added an MS660 and 090 for fun. I have tried 60cc saws from both of the big brands and for trees with a lot of brush the extra power at the trunk never made up for the weight while limbing. 90% of the time my 346 cuts the whole tree and everyone I cut with wonders why I'm always way ahead of them when they have bigger saws.
My set up is 346xpne with 20" bar .325 semi chisel std kerf on the narrow kerf bar. I find the narrow kerf chain pinches the bar too often. I still like all the other size saws but the light 50cc saw has never disappointed.
 
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