In need of new log splitter

[damato333]

I am using a all wood log splitter. It's ok but I need something faster,stronger, and bigger. I regulary get a log stuck when I am using the single wedge. I don't have the time to get a log stuck a couple times a day. I don't have much time to split wood. So when I am splitting I want to get as much done as possible. I am in the planning stages of building a log splitter. I want one like the tw-7. I feel like the tw-7 is way under powered. I want to be positive nothing will get stuck in the the box wedge. I'd rather have over kill than stopping and having to bang out wood stuck in the wedge. I want about 8 second cycle time. I want the box wedge to split 6 pieces and each piece would be 4"x4". I am not sure where to start. What size engine? What size pump? What size cylinder? I built a splitter for my skid steer but that was easy compared to this. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[mesupra]

I don't know his name but there is a AS member who builds some great looking machines for a great price

 

[GM_Grimmy]

I don't know his name but there is a AS member who builds some great looking machines for a great price

A.E. Metal Werx I think is who you are talking about. He built my splitter and currently has one for sale. Here's a couple he's built (mine is the blue one).

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...es-a-few-splitters-ive-built-recently.287746/

I am using a all wood log splitter. It's ok but I need something faster,stronger, and bigger. I regulary get a log stuck when I am using the single wedge. I don't have the time to get a log stuck a couple times a day. I don't have much time to split wood. So when I am splitting I want to get as much done as possible. I am in the planning stages of building a log splitter. I want one like the tw-7. I feel like the tw-7 is way under powered. I want to be positive nothing will get stuck in the the box wedge. I'd rather have over kill than stopping and having to bang out wood stuck in the wedge. I want about 8 second cycle time. I want the box wedge to split 6 pieces and each piece would be 4"x4". I am not sure where to start. What size engine? What size pump? What size cylinder? I built a splitter for my skid steer but that was easy compared to this. Any help would be appreciated.

Funny you say that, as that's the exact reasoning that I sent my Allwood back. Bobby's design is flawed, and it's not just the wedge, the tank, the cooler I had on mine, it was all just slapped together. All the problems I had with it, I haven't had to even worry about with the one I got from Alex (blue one in the link above is what Alex built for me).

 

[mesupra]

Thanks for following up with the members name. Very impressive splitter

 

[damato333]

A.E. Metal Werx I think is who you are talking about. He built my splitter and currently has one for sale. Here's a couple he's built (mine is the blue one).

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...es-a-few-splitters-ive-built-recently.287746/



Funny you say that, as that's the exact reasoning that I sent my Allwood back. Bobby's design is flawed, and it's not just the wedge, the tank, the cooler I had on mine, it was all just slapped together. All the problems I had with it, I haven't had to even worry about with the one I got from Alex (blue one in the link above is what Alex built for me).

How long ago did you buy yours? What exactly did you have a problem with?

 

[GM_Grimmy]

I bought mine 2 years ago....as I just got my new one last July. I ran into a lot of pieces that it just wouldn't go through and would get stuck on the main wedge. When I started spending more and more time having to beat and saw pieces to get it to go through, I was pretty upset. For the money they cost, the thing should just work. The tank baffle was wrong and pretty much did nothing for slowing the oil down in the tank. The cooler I had on it, he put the wrong temp switch in so it would pretty much run till the battery was dead. He didn't order the right engine with the high output recharge like I wanted him to, and would have paid for. He gave every excuse in the book. He finally said he'd buy it bad at a reduced rate and I jumped all over it, took a day off work and drove 10 hours to return it and 10 hours back in a day to just get it out of my hair. The more I looked at it, the more I saw how it was slapped together and poorly built. It flexed a lot when a piece wouldn't go through the wedge and I was no way going to turn the pressure up, it'd self destruct.

That's it in a nut shell. I wasn't happy with it, was able to return it and got something that was build to just work, and work the first time from Alex. I did upgrade quite a bit in terms of speed on the blue one. 28gpm pump, had to up the valves for the higher flow, and had a custom made rod, 3.75" for a quick return stroke. It's under 8 second cycle time, and it will keep 3-4 people busy if you push things.

 

[unclemoustache]

Get a SuperSplit. 2 second cycle time, can be rigged for electric or gas motor. (I have both on mine - switch belts to get one or the other to operate).
Costs a bit more, but it's easier to operate, much faster than hydraulic, and very well built. You won't regret it. You won't find them used - people don't get rid of these things.

 

[GM_Grimmy]

Costs a bit more, but it's easier to operate, much faster than hydraulic, and very well built. You won't regret it. You won't find them used - people don't get rid of these things.

Yea, but no. You don't see anyone in the commercial business running a SS for a reason. They are not easier to operate, and if I put my 4 or 6 way on, I can chew through wood just as fast or faster than a SS. At the end of the day, your back will be sore where as a hydro with a log lift, you won't have that problem. I'm talking big hydros, not theses things you get from your local farm store.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Only box wedge I am aware of in the U.S. is Tempest.
I do not think the TW 7 is available from Timberwolf any longer, although not for absolutely for sure on that.
There are several box wedge splitters on YouTube from Europe.
I had considered the TW 7 and chose the 6 instead. The box wedges look like they make a lot of small splits and trash, and I questioned pushing knotty stuff through them. Been using the TW 6 more this spring and very happy with it, although only about seventy hours total on it. I've had a couple pieces, three or four, that have needed repositioning before splitting on a single wedge. I seldom take the four-way off it splitting Oak and Elm.

I've posted this several times before. I had my four-way wedge extended towards the table grate so as to act like a box wedge shelf. It works great for resplitting...just slide the top pieces back into position for resplitting (one half to the raised lot lift, the other half to the beam), which is what you do over and over with this size and style machine. A box wedge without the box.

Oh, A.E. Metal Werx's posted a while back in the Trading Post, Large Equipment section with photos of a splitter for sale with a nice disappearing four-way wedge.

 

[GM_Grimmy]

Oh, A.E. Metal Werx's posted a while back in the Trading Post, Large Equipment section with photos of a splitter for sale with a nice disappearing four-way wedge.

It's still for sale: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-commercial-size-log-splitter.287747/

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I have only built a handful of log splitters from scratch, but have determined a few factors that can not be compromised. I have modified or powered up many. A well built splitter can last 20 years with no problem. With a 100 to 200 cords per year. I do not like or condone guillotine designs as they are too hard on ones back, but for wood more than 4' or 5' they have their place. I worked on a crew that processed 50 or more cords a day and they had one just for large rounds, but used mostly cradle splitters for the rest. They had conveyor belts to load the dump trucks, but no wood processer in sight. I have wood in the back of my dump truck or pick up at the same level as the splitter so as not to have to bend over much. My design uses two horizontal 6'' x .25'' wall tubes with a 1/2'' x 6'' x 6.5' bar welded to the top. The tubes are the oil reservoir tanks which because of the large amount of exposed face is adequate for cooling. A 22HP or 24HP vertical or horizontal does not matter much. A lawn mower motor can be purchased for well under a grand. A twin V cylinder design is quite necessary as they can run 3,000 to 3,500 rpm all day ever day, but not a single cylinder. A 8 gpm 28 gpm two stage hydro pump is essential. I have also used a single stage pump and found over all they are too slow, because they can not handle really heavy knotted wood. A 5" or 6" x 28" to 32" cylinder can be found reasonably if you look around. If you need a log lifter that can always be bolted on or off as needed then plan on it. I have never under stood the concept of multi angled splitting wedges because here in California they will not work, but that does not mean in other states and countries that they would not work well. Depending on the terrain as if you need suspension or not. My current one has 12'' wheels for on the job site needs and large 15'' wheels and tires for transporting on the freeways. If some body maybe could build one for $3500 that would be a bargain, but I think realistically it would run you $5000. Thanks

 

[unclemoustache]

Yea, but no. You don't see anyone in the commercial business running a SS for a reason. They are not easier to operate, and if I put my 4 or 6 way on, I can chew through wood just as fast or faster than a SS. At the end of the day, your back will be sore where as a hydro with a log lift, you won't have that problem. I'm talking big hydros, not theses things you get from your local farm store.

Yes, the lift does make a big difference on the big pieces, and a SS can't push through the huge knots very well, but compare apples to apples. Those in the commercial business use processors rather than splitters (and yes, there are a couple commercial guys on here that use SS). So comparing splitters with splitters, I think the SS does very well indeed.

 

[GM_Grimmy]

So comparing splitters with splitters, I think the SS does very well indeed.

And you have to admit, so does a well built hydraulic. Look at the cycle times of those processors. Take away the automation, you have a splitter left over with quick cycle time, that can output the same as a SS using a multiple wedge system.

 

[unclemoustache]

And you have to admit, so does a well built hydraulic. Look at the cycle times of those processors. Take away the automation, you have a splitter left over with quick cycle time, that can output the same as a SS using a multiple wedge system.

If we could just get SS to build a monster splitter with HUGE flywheels and a 12-way wedge and hydro lift, then THAT would be a splitter. I wouldn't want to be anywhere near it when in operation, though.

 

[GM_Grimmy]

If we could just get SS to build a monster splitter with HUGE flywheels and a 12-way wedge and hydro lift, then THAT would be a splitter. I wouldn't want to be anywhere near it when in operation, though.

Just send me a link to the video you upload to youtube.........I don't think I'd want to be near that when you pull the handle to fire it!!

 

[damato333]

I have only built a handful of log splitters from scratch, but have determined a few factors that can not be compromised. I have modified or powered up many. A well built splitter can last 20 years with no problem. With a 100 to 200 cords per year. I do not like or condone guillotine designs as they are too hard on ones back, but for wood more than 4' or 5' they have their place. I worked on a crew that processed 50 or more cords a day and they had one just for large rounds, but used mostly cradle splitters for the rest. They had conveyor belts to load the dump trucks, but no wood processer in sight. I have wood in the back of my dump truck or pick up at the same level as the splitter so as not to have to bend over much. My design uses two horizontal 6'' x .25'' wall tubes with a 1/2'' x 6'' x 6.5' bar welded to the top. The tubes are the oil reservoir tanks which because of the large amount of exposed face is adequate for cooling. A 22HP or 24HP vertical or horizontal does not matter much. A lawn mower motor can be purchased for well under a grand. A twin V cylinder design is quite necessary as they can run 3,000 to 3,500 rpm all day ever day, but not a single cylinder. A 8 gpm 28 gpm two stage hydro pump is essential. I have also used a single stage pump and found over all they are too slow, because they can not handle really heavy knotted wood. A 5" or 6" x 28" to 32" cylinder can be found reasonably if you look around. If you need a log lifter that can always be bolted on or off as needed then plan on it. I have never under stood the concept of multi angled splitting wedges because here in California they will not work, but that does not mean in other states and countries that they would not work well. Depending on the terrain as if you need suspension or not. My current one has 12'' wheels for on the job site needs and large 15'' wheels and tires for transporting on the freeways. If some body maybe could build one for $3500 that would be a bargain, but I think realistically it would run you $5000. Thanks

Only box wedge I am aware of in the U.S. is Tempest.
I do not think the TW 7 is available from Timberwolf any longer, although not for absolutely for sure on that.
There are several box wedge splitters on YouTube from Europe.
I had considered the TW 7 and chose the 6 instead. The box wedges look like they make a lot of small splits and trash, and I questioned pushing knotty stuff through them. Been using the TW 6 more this spring and very happy with it, although only about seventy hours total on it. I've had a couple pieces, three or four, that have needed repositioning before splitting on a single wedge. I seldom take the four-way off it splitting Oak and Elm.

I've posted this several times before. I had my four-way wedge extended towards the table grate so as to act like a box wedge shelf. It works great for resplitting...just slide the top pieces back into position for resplitting (one half to the raised lot lift, the other half to the beam), which is what you do over and over with this size and style machine. A box wedge without the box.

Oh, A.E. Metal Werx's posted a while back in the Trading Post, Large Equipment section with photos of a splitter for sale with a nice disappearing four-way wedge.

I was just looking for the tempest. And I think woodmizer bought tempest. I figure if it is built strong with the right parts then it should be able to split anything.

 

[damato333]

I have only built a handful of log splitters from scratch, but have determined a few factors that can not be compromised. I have modified or powered up many. A well built splitter can last 20 years with no problem. With a 100 to 200 cords per year. I do not like or condone guillotine designs as they are too hard on ones back, but for wood more than 4' or 5' they have their place. I worked on a crew that processed 50 or more cords a day and they had one just for large rounds, but used mostly cradle splitters for the rest. They had conveyor belts to load the dump trucks, but no wood processer in sight. I have wood in the back of my dump truck or pick up at the same level as the splitter so as not to have to bend over much. My design uses two horizontal 6'' x .25'' wall tubes with a 1/2'' x 6'' x 6.5' bar welded to the top. The tubes are the oil reservoir tanks which because of the large amount of exposed face is adequate for cooling. A 22HP or 24HP vertical or horizontal does not matter much. A lawn mower motor can be purchased for well under a grand. A twin V cylinder design is quite necessary as they can run 3,000 to 3,500 rpm all day ever day, but not a single cylinder. A 8 gpm 28 gpm two stage hydro pump is essential. I have also used a single stage pump and found over all they are too slow, because they can not handle really heavy knotted wood. A 5" or 6" x 28" to 32" cylinder can be found reasonably if you look around. If you need a log lifter that can always be bolted on or off as needed then plan on it. I have never under stood the concept of multi angled splitting wedges because here in California they will not work, but that does not mean in other states and countries that they would not work well. Depending on the terrain as if you need suspension or not. My current one has 12'' wheels for on the job site needs and large 15'' wheels and tires for transporting on the freeways. If some body maybe could build one for $3500 that would be a bargain, but I think realistically it would run you $5000. Thanks

I have only built a handful of log splitters from scratch, but have determined a few factors that can not be compromised. I have modified or powered up many. A well built splitter can last 20 years with no problem. With a 100 to 200 cords per year. I do not like or condone guillotine designs as they are too hard on ones back, but for wood more than 4' or 5' they have their place. I worked on a crew that processed 50 or more cords a day and they had one just for large rounds, but used mostly cradle splitters for the rest. They had conveyor belts to load the dump trucks, but no wood processer in sight. I have wood in the back of my dump truck or pick up at the same level as the splitter so as not to have to bend over much. My design uses two horizontal 6'' x .25'' wall tubes with a 1/2'' x 6'' x 6.5' bar welded to the top. The tubes are the oil reservoir tanks which because of the large amount of exposed face is adequate for cooling. A 22HP or 24HP vertical or horizontal does not matter much. A lawn mower motor can be purchased for well under a grand. A twin V cylinder design is quite necessary as they can run 3,000 to 3,500 rpm all day ever day, but not a single cylinder. A 8 gpm 28 gpm two stage hydro pump is essential. I have also used a single stage pump and found over all they are too slow, because they can not handle really heavy knotted wood. A 5" or 6" x 28" to 32" cylinder can be found reasonably if you look around. If you need a log lifter that can always be bolted on or off as needed then plan on it. I have never under stood the concept of multi angled splitting wedges because here in California they will not work, but that does not mean in other states and countries that they would not work well. Depending on the terrain as if you need suspension or not. My current one has 12'' wheels for on the job site needs and large 15'' wheels and tires for transporting on the freeways. If some body maybe could build one for $3500 that would be a bargain, but I think realistically it would run you $5000. Thanks

I'll start by saying I'm not good with hydraulics. The math confuses the hell out of me. So you think I should get a 24 hp motor, 28 gpm pump, and 6" bore cylinder with I'm assuming a 3" rod cause bigger is better. Do you know how many tons that would make? It would be nice to have a firewood processor. But I really would not want to pay that price. The problem is I get wood from tree trimming companies. The log I just got today probably would crush the biggest processor.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Actually hydraulics is very basic and easy if the basics are broken down. I have seen processors demonstrated and have never found a use for them or have met any body who has ever found a need for them. That being said that does not mean that they have no value. It all depends on your wood source and type of wood you are processing. I split a cord and 1/2 in 2 hours 40 minutes by myself using a basic splitter that I have not modified in 20 years. A good design simple economical and very practical. Plus I did not have to bend over to wear my back out faster.

There are three choices for hydro pumps 16 gallon per minute flow rate, 22 gallon per minute flow rate, or 28 gallon per minute flow rate. Each pump needs different horse power to operate. The 16 gpm needs about 6 hp, the 22 needs about 14 hp, and the 28 needs about 20. If you do not use the two stage pumps that are available then you will have to over power a single stage pump or run two pumps together. Imagine you have a truck with two gears if you put 1 cord of wood on it and want to go up a hill and it has a 4 cylinder engine it will get there, but slow. Or if you put 3 cords of wood on it and you have a v 10 with over 400 ci it will accomplish the job three times the work.

Most hydro pumps operate from 2500-3000 pounds per square inch. If you use a 4 inch diameter cylinder it will have a force of radius squared ( 4 ) times pi ( 3.14 ) equals the amount of surface you are pushing ( 12.56 square inches ) times the amount of pressure the pump is able to produce ( 3,000 psi ) equals ( 37680 lbs ) divided by ( 2000 or one ton ) and you have ( 18.84 ton ) ram set up. A 6 in cylinder will produce 42.39 tons of ram or force. The larger the cylinder the slower the operation is because it takes the pump longer to fill the larger cylinder than it would a smaller cylinder. Then if you want a log lifter it will only take a very small ram to lift a 1000 lb round. If you want to use a star shaped wedge no problem. I can publish or send a design that is removable and is tried and tested where as it works. On second thought I have never seen a design quite like mine that actually works. Usually removable wedges remove themselves or rip the cradle apart. So there you have it. That is pretty much all you need to know to get or set up your splitting system. Thanks

 

[damato333]

Actually hydraulics is very basic and easy if the basics are broken down. I have seen processors demonstrated and have never found a use for them or have met any body who has ever found a need for them. That being said that does not mean that they have no value. It all depends on your wood source and type of wood you are processing. I split a cord and 1/2 in 2 hours 40 minutes by myself using a basic splitter that I have not modified in 20 years. A good design simple economical and very practical. Plus I did not have to bend over to wear my back out faster.

There are three choices for hydro pumps 16 gallon per minute flow rate, 22 gallon per minute flow rate, or 28 gallon per minute flow rate. Each pump needs different horse power to operate. The 16 gpm needs about 6 hp, the 22 needs about 14 hp, and the 28 needs about 20. If you do not use the two stage pumps that are available then you will have to over power a single stage pump or run two pumps together. Imagine you have a truck with two gears if you put 1 cord of wood on it and want to go up a hill and it has a 4 cylinder engine it will get there, but slow. Or if you put 3 cords of wood on it and you have a v 10 with over 400 ci it will accomplish the job three times the work.

Most hydro pumps operate from 2500-3000 pounds per square inch. If you use a 4 inch diameter cylinder it will have a force of radius squared ( 4 ) times pi ( 3.14 ) equals the amount of surface you are pushing ( 12.56 square inches ) times the amount of pressure the pump is able to produce ( 3,000 psi ) equals ( 37680 lbs ) divided by ( 2000 or one ton ) and you have ( 18.84 ton ) ram set up. A 6 in cylinder will produce 42.39 tons of ram or force. The larger the cylinder the slower the operation is because it takes the pump longer to fill the larger cylinder than it would a smaller cylinder. Then if you want a log lifter it will only take a very small ram to lift a 1000 lb round. If you want to use a star shaped wedge no problem. I can publish or send a design that is removable and is tried and tested where as it works. On second thought I have never seen a design quite like mine that actually works. Usually removable wedges remove themselves or rip the cradle apart. So there you have it. That is pretty much all you need to know to get or set up your splitting system. Thanks

I appreciate all your help.

 

[damato333]

Metaris.com/hydCal/HP.asp
This site says I would need about a 50 h.p. engine to run a 28 gpm at 3,000 psi
Is that right? That seems high but they are using the formula that it seems like everyone else uses.