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Tuning Echo chainsaws

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by wikrisra, Oct 20, 2009.

  1. wikrisra

    wikrisra ArboristSite Lurker

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    Couple questions about a couple Echo saws. I have an CS 306 and a CS 400. Both run just fine. The 306 is a few years old and the 400 is pretty new. Only had if for a couple weeks. The thing that I’m finding about the Echo saws that I don’t like is the carb adjuster limiter screws. How do I deal with them? How do I get them out then how do I tune once their out? I’ll let the CS 400 at the factory recommended setting for at least 5-6 tanks of gas but I want to see how this thing will really run once it’s broken in. In retrospect, I probably should have bought a slightly bigger saw in place of the CS 400.

    Muffler mods… I took small baffle off the outlet of the 306. I’d estimate that it change the final exhaust opening from about 1-1/2 inc by ¾ inch to 1-3/4 inch by ¾ inch. I suppose I should measure it…. But it’s noticeably louder with a sharper sound. The real question is, ‘how do I tune it to ensure that I don’t burn it up? How do I deal with those adjustment limiters? I’ll start messing with the 400 in a couple weeks.

    Thanks
     
  2. pioneerguy600

    pioneerguy600 Tree Freak

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    Turn the screws until the tabs on the plastic limiters align with the slots in the carb casting, use a gyproc screw to screw into the limiters and they will pull up and out through the slots, once out you can tune the carb like any other carb used before the limiter carbs came out. Once the saw is running right the limiters should be put back in to keep the needles from moving through vibration, I often remove the needles and put compression springs from older carbs on the needles and then replace the needles in their proper places, adjust them for proper operation and the do not move from vibration.
    Pioneerguy600
     
  3. Schipp

    Schipp ArboristSite Member

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    bitty screw driver

    "On my echo 600p I used a litty bitty flat screw driver like u might use on glasses. I pryed the caps up till I could grab aholt'of'em with pliers, then pulled them out. U hav to turn them to where the tabs with slide up thru the slots.
    Once u get them out, turn them cw all the way in and count how many turns it is so u will know how many turns out each screw is from factory setting for u'r starting point."
    Schipp
    "Ooopsh, this is an old thread!...nevemind!" :)
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2011
  4. mountainlake

    mountainlake Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Schipp gave good advice above, after turning the adjusters all the way in and counting the turns, turn the high back out one more turn or so, make sure to turn it out far enough so the engine slows down notacibaly when held wide open (the rev limiter can fool you into thinking it's rich) the gradully turn back in until it's cuts the fastest, if you get to far in it will get boggy . On the low open it far enough so it doesn't hesitate when you crack the throttle. If you do a good muff modd and tune good you'll forget about the bigger saw, these CS400 saws make HUGH improvements with a muff modd. Steve
     

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