So I bought a new ms660.

[lectrocrew]

Hi everyboby. I've looked around the site some and like it!
I worked for 3 logging company's in MS and AL in the 90's and did a few tree jobs around houses since, but haven't done much saw work in a few years although I still have several of my old saws I collected. A couple of months ago a tree in my yard got hit by lightning so I dusted off a saw and got my logging blood pumping. You all know the story.
Last week another BIG pine in my horse pasture got hit by another bolt (lightning is a big problem here in FL) so I decided to buy a saw to have fun with. I ran a 066 in the 90's and loved running (not carrying) it. Since I don't run a saw for hours anymore I figured an ms660 would be good for my blood.
So I'll be hanging around here trying to learn about mods for my new saw.
TIA
Mike

 

[Tzed250]

Congratulations!!!

Welcome to the 660 club and welcome to AS!!

 

[Ironbark]

So I'll be hanging around here trying to learn about mods for my new saw.

Congrats on the new saw

The dual port muffler cover is a good way to start.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

The dual port muffler cover is a good way to start.

Good saw, and great advice on the Mod. Dual port cover and retune the carb, is a great mod.

 

[Erick]

Welcome Back.

 

[04ultra]

Hmmmm .....MS660 .......I know a guy that has a few of them....

 

[Erick]

Hmmmm .....MS660 .......I know a guy that has a few of them....

Only if by few you mean fifty.

 

[reachtreeservi]

Ms660
The real saw for real men....LOL



Really, You'll never regret that purchase !

 

[lectrocrew]

Thanks for the welcome!

Congrats on the new saw

The dual port muffler cover is a good way to start.

I can see why. My single outlet muffler looks like a real choker.
What part # do I order?
1122 140 0800
#5 in this diagram?

 

[2000ssm6]

Congrats and yup on the part #.

 

[lectrocrew]

Thanks! I'll order tomorrow.

 

[OilHead]

I can see why. My single outlet muffler looks like a real choker.
What part # do I order?
1122 140 0800
#5 in this diagram?

Your going to want to completly remove that inner cage. Dont just drill it remove all of it. Dremel with a cutoff wheel is what I used.

 

[lectrocrew]

Your going to want to completly remove that inner cage. Dont just drill it remove all of it. Dremel with a cutoff wheel is what I used.

Okay. I'll take it in to work with me to do the surgery. Will this not corrupt any 'exhaust tuning' done by the manufacturer?
Please forgive me for only being semi-knowledgable about tuning 4-stoke exhaust. I tried some 2-stroke pipe fabrication on my Yamaha YZ490 motorcross bike years ago but an aftermarket pipe eventually proved my design pretty much worthless.

 

[OilHead]

Dont worry about a thing. Your reverse engineering the thing back to where it was in the good old days. Stop in at your local saw shop & have them pull the limiter caps with the proper tool its not worth taking a chance of bending the needles . Save them because they need to be re installed after the mixture has been reset richer. Once the saw has 20 or more taks of fuel run thru it check the rpm again as it will most likely need to be richened up once again . Dont run that new puppy lean check & recheck it . The saw must be completly warmed up for 4 or 5 minutes . Its best if you can make a couple cuts prior to checking it with a tach .

 

[lectrocrew]

Dont worry about a thing. Your reverse engineering the thing back to where it was in the good old days. Stop in at your local saw shop & have them pull the limiter caps with the proper tool its not worth taking a chance of bending the needles . Save them because they need to be re installed after the mixture has been reset richer. Once the saw has 20 or more taks of fuel run thru it check the rpm again as it will most likely need to be richened up once again . Dont run that new puppy lean check & recheck it . The saw must be completly warmed up for 4 or 5 minutes . Its best if you can make a couple cuts prior to checking it with a tach .

I've done all my own work so far on my saws and based on talking to the mechanic at my Stihl dealer, (who, when I asked for a tube of grease for clutch hub needle bearings told me to spray them with PB Blaster penetrating oil ), I'll gladly take a chance on removing / replacing the limiter caps myself.
Limiter caps (4203 121 2700) just in case I booger one
Limiter cap puller (5910 890 4500)
Correct?
Thanks OilHead!

 

[Gologit]

Only if by few you mean fifty.

He got rid of some?

 

[OilHead]

Cool looks like you have been around the block more than once on setin one up. Just keep an eye on the max rpm as it gets run in, even more so if you've got labled 10 % methonal at the pump.

 

[lectrocrew]

Cool looks like you have been around the block more than once on setin one up. Just keep an eye on the max rpm as it gets run in, even more so if you've got labled 10 % methonal at the pump.

Yep, I intend to keep an eye / ear on the fuel / air ratio. I know the damage running it lean can do. I run 100 octane unleaded gas with no ethanol in my saws so I shouldn't have any fuel related problem.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

100 octane unleaded gas

Where do you get that? Some folk around here are running 100LL (low lead avgas) in their equipment, you can get it from the local airport.

Ian

 

[lectrocrew]

I get it at a Sunoco station here in Ocala FL. They sell 100 octane unleaded or 110 octane leaded (both are 8.99 gal as of last Friday). Thats one of the first convenient goodies I found when I moved down here a year ago.
I bought leaded AvGas for my saws and race car from the airport when I lived in MS. I haven't bought any 110 leaded here yet. I wasn't sure whether or not I could run leaded gas in this new saw. I asume I can but I doubt there is a need for 110 octane with stock compression and timing. Maybe after future mods.