Best first professional saw

[donmakesallthefuelbegone]

Hi,
I am looking to buy a professional chainsaw, I do however have some difficulty deciding because this will be my first ever pro saw. I have been looking at a Stihl ms 462c because I don’t like screwing around with carburettors but I do wanna eventually put a barkbox and some other modifications on it.

The problem is that I don’t know if a 462c is a good first pro saw. The most powerful saw I’ve ran so far is 2.1hp and the 462c has 6 what is quite the jump up. I do however have done up a lot of experience the past 7 months. I have used homeowner saws in a way the technically requires pro saws and thus ive overworked 2 saws already (oops)

I really want a good saw (preferably a Stihl because ive had some trouble with husqvarna and also I got way more Stihl shops around me than husqvarna) the saw also has to be good for falling (mainly smaller trees 30-50cm at the bottom but also well capable for bigger because I do sometimes get some good sized stuff) As well as firewood and bucking. Also I want it to have good aftermarket support because I would love to eventually get into upgrading my own saws with stuff like muffler mods, fullwrap handle and some other basic fun stuff.

Age of the saw doesn’t matter to much, I don’t care if its late 80’s early 90’s or just released yesterday.

Anyone any suggestions please?

Thank you so much for taking the time to read this through.
I hope you can help me finding a good saw or at least some good advice

 

[Seachaser]

I would go to the dealer and handle the 400, 462, and several others before deciding. Have them put a light bar on it first. Let the warranty go out before modding it.

 

[donmakesallthefuelbegone]

T

I would go to the dealer and handle the 400, 462, and several others before deciding. Have them put a light bar on it first. Let the warranty go out before modding it.

hanks for the advice, the warranty would go out before modding anyway because I now plan to buy the saw and climbing gear and all the novelty stuff like mods is for when I start earning enough as a climbing arborist. Also I am planning to buy second hand because sadly new isn’t in my budget. I am doing a lot of research on important stuff to check when buying second hand because I do not wanna waist money that I can’t just make back with the low paying job I have right now.

Anyway I am happy and grateful for your suggestion so thank you, I’ll definitely look into the some of the other and will go to my local dealer once I get the chance. I didn’t think about going to the dealership and holding the saws, thanks again

 

[ihookem]

You are making a huge jump in saws. I went from a Stihl 011 ( 2.1 horse) to a Stihl 034 (4.1horse?)and it was an animal compared to my 011. You will likely be very happy with a Stihl 362.

 

[EchoRomeoCharlie]

If you need/want a 70cc main saw, I would suggest starting out with an MS261. A very nice 50cc saw that will compliment a 70cc all around felling/bucking saw down the road like the 462. Then...if you decide you need more after that, a 90cc saw like the 661 works well for the really big logs.

I don't see much point in buying a vintage saw unless you just really like them for the nostalgia or something. They're heavy, slow, and sometimes parts can be hard to find. New or very lightly used is the best way to go in my opinion.

 

[donmakesallthefuelbegone]

You are making a huge jump in saws. I went from a Stihl 011 ( 2.1 horse) to a Stihl 034 (4.1horse?)and it was an animal compared to my 011. You will likely be very happy with a Stihl 362.

I have been looking at a 362 also, the 4 plus hp should indeed be plenty. I have some 362’s in my area that are for sale. I am right now just looking at a 462c that is on a second hand site for 450 bucks so im going to check that one out inside and out, because they is an insanely good deal but very risky, if that one doesn’t turn out like I hope (what I’m afraid it won’t but it’s always worth checking) I am planning to look at some of the 362’s as well.

Thanks for the advice

 

[donmakesallthefuelbegone]

If you need/want a 70cc main saw, I would suggest starting out with an MS261. A very nice 50cc saw that will compliment a 70cc all around felling/bucking saw down the road like the 462. Then...if you decide you need more after that, a 90cc saw like the 661 works well for the really big logs.

I don't see much point in buying a vintage saw unless you just really like them for the nostalgia or something. They're heavy, slow, and sometimes parts can be hard to find. New or very lightly used is the best way to go in my opinion.

I wasn’t sure if a 261 was a pro saw, it does indeed sound like a good option if it runs like you say it would that would be very good. A 661 is waaaaaaay out of my budget though. I do hope to one day own one but right now my budget only allows me to go second hand. I know it’s risky but I will check every nut, bold and clip on the saw before I decide to buy it.

(Also this might sound stupid but I will be taking my mom with me because I am a very impulsive person, she’ll stop me from doing stupid stuff. My impulsiveness has led me to buying a 40+ year old McCullough lol, now I need some clutch parts and a new carb)

 

[Colonel428]

Well, don't over think it too much. Sounds like you got your heart set on a 462c, which is a good choice. I've never really been a fan of the 60cc class saws. Kinda "in between saws to me". Heavier than what you want to be limbing with all day and not really suited power wise for big stuff. I would absolutely suggest a 70cc saw (462c) or even a used 500i (pricey but really sweet saws). Good luck with your search and enjoy whatever you decide to buy.

 

[EchoRomeoCharlie]

I wasn’t sure if a 261 was a pro saw, it does indeed sound like a good option if it runs like you say it would that would be very good. A 661 is waaaaaaay out of my budget though. I do hope to one day own one but right now my budget only allows me to go second hand. I know it’s risky but I will check every nut, bold and clip on the saw before I decide to buy it.

(Also this might sound stupid but I will be taking my mom with me because I am a very impulsive person, she’ll stop me from doing stupid stuff. My impulsiveness has led me to buying a 40+ year old McCullough lol, now I need some clutch parts and a new carb)

261 is professional line

I've had mine for many years and it's never let me down.

You seem a bit green, so here's some tips on buying used saws. Honestly, it's not a great idea for beginners, but you'll learn quickly.


First check over the saw for general well being and cleanliness..excessively dirty saws means it's likely they don't maintain their equipment. Make sure nothing is missing, make sure the air filter is present and hopefully clean. Make sure the gas is fresh and is mixed with oil and bar oil are present and quality..hopefully it isn't used engine oil. Look at the chain, if it's super dull it's a red flag, they probably run the saw with a dull chain, reef on it, and get it really hot. If it's brand spanking new out of the box....could be red flag trying to hide the dull chain lol Ideally it will have a used but sharp chain on it. Check the chain tension...super tight or super loose is a hint they don't know what they're doing. Pull the clutch cover off and check the drive sprocket for excessive wear. Check the clutch drum for any excessive heat. Check the bar adjustment system for proper operation. Check the bar for excessive wear. Check the roller tip make sure it moves freely and isn't bound up.

Before you start it, check the piston through the exhaust port, ask seller if you can first. All metal/bolts should be cold, if it's warm/hot they started it before you got there. Red flag. If the piston is scored at all, either walk away or make sure you pay the right price for it so you can fix it.

Make sure you know the proper start up procedure for the saw you're looking at before you get there. Make sure it cold starts like it should.
Let the saw warm up at idle - Make sure it doesn't load up and shut off or run too fast and make the chain spin at idle.
Shut the saw down when it's hot and restart it right away, it should start hot with ease.
Let it sit for 2 or 3 minutes and try to start it again...should still start quickly.

Now that's warm, compression test it. Know how to compression test and know the compression number you should see before you get there.

Ask the seller questions about the saw you already know the answer to (because you did your homework before getting there)...like how many CC's is the engine? What is the manufacturer suggested mix ratio? What mix ratio does he run? What is the proper starting procedure? You're trying to understand how competent the owner is...if he doesn't know the answer to any of this he might not understand how to properly maintain saws either.


Take this all into account when offering a purchasing price, or more likely, deciding to walk away from the deal.

 

[eugene89us]

I agree with folks here. I have had a misfortune of using consumer grade Poulan saw (that was branded Husqvarna), so when time came to get a bigger saw as we purchased some timber land and with a bad taste on my mouth from Husqvarna-Poulan, I decided Stihl was the way to go. Naturally, started looking at options such as Farm Boss, reading reviews, etc. Decided best to cry once and be done instead of getting consumer saws. Stopped on MS 261, which has not let me down yet over the last year and 3 months. Unlike consumer saws, the body is made from Magnesium alloy instead of plastic. I bough a fuel tank plate from a well known user on ebay, which kept the bottom of the saw quite pristine and protects the fuel tank from damage. I would recommend going for 261 with a 20 inch bar. $700, but the ease of starting and power, it easily handled a 30-35" oak I just bucked for firewood. It is an entry level Pro saw, 50 cc, with excellent weight to power ratio (I think it is a 3 kW saw).

 

[fields_mj]

If you need/want a 70cc main saw, I would suggest starting out with an MS261. A very nice 50cc saw that will compliment a 70cc all around felling/bucking saw down the road like the 462. Then...if you decide you need more after that, a 90cc saw like the 661 works well for the really big logs.

I don't see much point in buying a vintage saw unless you just really like them for the nostalgia or something. They're heavy, slow, and sometimes parts can be hard to find. New or very lightly used is the best way to go in my opinion.

The 261 is a great option if you can afford it, even if its used. They are work horses, so even a used one should be fine if its been taken care of. I hear people recommend buying new all the time because new things are more reliable. Almost all of those individuals are under the impression that car payments and house payments are just a way of life. They are a way of life, they are a poor way of life. You're starting out. Buy a good used tool and use it to make some money. Put part of that money aside until there's enough to buy another tool that's either newer or bigger depending on what your work content requires.

 

[Sloughfoot]

Bigger the saw, longer the bar, less you bend over. My back doesn't like less than a 24", prefers 28".

 

[donmakesallthefuelbegone]

Well, don't over think it too much. Sounds like you got your heart set on a 462c, which is a good choice. I've never really been a fan of the 60cc class saws. Kinda "in between saws to me". Heavier than what you want to be limbing with all day and not really suited power wise for big stuff. I would absolutely suggest a 70cc saw (462c) or even a used 500i (pricey but really sweet saws). Good luck with your search and enjoy whatever you decide to buy.

I don’t really have my heart set to the 462c, I just love that saw and see it as a great option, I did however stumble upon a 460 (which is 76 and a bit cc if I’m not mistaken) and that also sounds nice. The reason I made this post is just so I get some good reliable advice so I would not make a mistake. It’s basically asking all you pro’s out there if you had to choose one saw you get to run and no other, which one is best ( considering a not to high budget, my budget is around 500 bucks and saws where I live do go pretty cheap)

 

[donmakesallthefuelbegone]

T

261 is professional line

I've had mine for many years and it's never let me down.

You seem a bit green, so here's some tips on buying used saws. Honestly, it's not a great idea for beginners, but you'll learn quickly.


First check over the saw for general well being and cleanliness..excessively dirty saws means it's likely they don't maintain their equipment. Make sure nothing is missing, make sure the air filter is present and hopefully clean. Make sure the gas is fresh and is mixed with oil and bar oil are present and quality..hopefully it isn't used engine oil. Look at the chain, if it's super dull it's a red flag, they probably run the saw with a dull chain, reef on it, and get it really hot. If it's brand spanking new out of the box....could be red flag trying to hide the dull chain lol Ideally it will have a used but sharp chain on it. Check the chain tension...super tight or super loose is a hint they don't know what they're doing. Pull the clutch cover off and check the drive sprocket for excessive wear. Check the clutch drum for any excessive heat. Check the bar adjustment system for proper operation. Check the bar for excessive wear. Check the roller tip make sure it moves freely and isn't bound up.

Before you start it, check the piston through the exhaust port, ask seller if you can first. All metal/bolts should be cold, if it's warm/hot they started it before you got there. Red flag. If the piston is scored at all, either walk away or make sure you pay the right price for it so you can fix it.

Make sure you know the proper start up procedure for the saw you're looking at before you get there. Make sure it cold starts like it should.
Let the saw warm up at idle - Make sure it doesn't load up and shut off or run too fast and make the chain spin at idle.
Shut the saw down when it's hot and restart it right away, it should start hot with ease.
Let it sit for 2 or 3 minutes and try to start it again...should still start quickly.

Now that's warm, compression test it. Know how to compression test and know the compression number you should see before you get there.

Ask the seller questions about the saw you already know the answer to (because you did your homework before getting there)...like how many CC's is the engine? What is the manufacturer suggested mix ratio? What mix ratio does he run? What is the proper starting procedure? You're trying to understand how competent the owner is...if he doesn't know the answer to any of this he might not understand how to properly maintain saws either.


Take this all into account when offering a purchasing price, or more likely, deciding to walk away from the deal.

Thank you so much for this advice, some of it I already knew and I just ordered a compression tester but your reply contained a lot of useful information.
I am indeed pretty new to this stuff, I got my first saw in November 2023 and only bought a total of 2 brand new cheap home owner saws, I also blindly bought a mac130 but I didn’t care if it ran properly for the 50 bucks I paid, I also got 2 free saws that don’t work so needless to say I can use all good advice on buying a second hand saw that is supposed to be a workhorse. I am quite nervous because 1 mistakes or thing that I missed and I can lose a few hundred bucks.

Truly from the bottom of my heart, thank you for taking the time to read my question and write all this down.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

I haven't had the chance to use it a lot yet since I got it for $100 trashed and rebuilt it cheap, but probably if my entire collection had to be reduced to one of the saws it would be my MS361. Power to weight is absolutely fantastic.

 

[Hirdatron]

I think someone might already have suggested it but if you're going for just one saw for all types of cutting then 60cc is probably the best compromise. If you plan on two saws then 50 and 70 is a good option. If you're looking at 60cc stihls I'd definitely be looking at the 400 over a 362. It's actually about 65cc but virtually the same size and weight as a 362 so for a single saw plan definitely would be my choice! From what you describe though I might lean towards getting a 462 with a 24" bar and see how it feels on the smaller stuff then maybe treat yourself to a 262!! Whichever saw you get they're well made saws!

 

[huskydave]

I would get a mentor in your area to teach you the basics before buying anything powerful. The reason I say this is a 50cc pro saw will have double the power you are used to or more, to me that is a great starter saw for a semi pro and later when you build your skills you can add another bigger saw to the mix and that 50cc saw will still be very handy to have and use.

 

[thomasinvancouver]

I have been looking at a 362 also, the 4 plus hp should indeed be plenty. I have some 362’s in my area that are for sale. I am right now just looking at a 462c that is on a second hand site for 450 bucks so im going to check that one out inside and out, because they is an insanely good deal but very risky, if that one doesn’t turn out like I hope (what I’m afraid it won’t but it’s always worth checking) I am planning to look at some of the 362’s as well.

Thanks for the advice

I would skip the 362 and go with a 400.

I miss my 462. I sold the 362 and kept the 462. Then it was stolen. Speaking of which; for 450 that saw is stolen or busted.

 

[donmakesallthefuelbegone]

I would get a mentor in your area to teach you the basics before buying anything powerful. The reason I say this is a 50cc pro saw will have double the power you are used to or more, to me that is a great starter saw for a semi pro and later when you build your skills you can add another bigger saw to the mix and that 50cc saw will still be very handy to have and use.

The problem is I don’t speak Bulgarian but I live in Bulgaria, I also live in the part of Bulgaria with almost no professionals or people who speak English, if I lived in Sofia this might have been possible but for now my mentor has been YouTube and forums

 

[donmakesallthefuelbegone]

I would skip the 362 and go with a 400.

I miss my 462. I sold the 362 and kept the 462. Then it was stolen. Speaking of which; for 450 that saw is stolen or busted.

No, I live in Bulgaria. Most saws don’t go over 500 bucks second hand, I got an old McCullough mac130 for 50 bucks and it needs a bit of work but it runs and cuts, the most expensive 462c I’ve found is 700 bucks and the cheapest sub 500. Saws don’t hold value here because no one wants to pay a lot for them. You have a perfectly running stihl or husqvarna for 400-600 bucks here