Need help swapping out cylinder and piston on old MS 460

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
This is getting weird---

Now the Stihl dealer is telling me that the carb on the 460 has to be rebuilt, too, because the previous owner messed it up so bad. How did this saw do so well, for a while, if it was in such bad shape, internally, when I got it? Granted, I did not use this saw too much in day-to-day operations, but it saw at least a hundred hours (rough estimate) from the time I bought it to the time it seized.
 
Now the Stihl dealer is telling me that the carb on the 460 has to be rebuilt, too, because the previous owner messed it up so bad. How did this saw do so well, for a while, if it was in such bad shape, internally, when I got it? Granted, I did not use this saw too much in day-to-day operations, but it saw at least a hundred hours (rough estimate) from the time I bought it to the time it seized.

You know the more you post about your dealer, the more I'm inclined to advise you to get the saw out of his hands before he takes you to the cleaners. Just a humble observation.
 
Now the Stihl dealer is telling me that the carb on the 460 has to be rebuilt, too, because the previous owner messed it up so bad. How did this saw do so well, for a while, if it was in such bad shape, internally, when I got it? Granted, I did not use this saw too much in day-to-day operations, but it saw at least a hundred hours (rough estimate) from the time I bought it to the time it seized.

Carb rebuild? Big deal... $6 kit.. 5 minutes.... 10 if you haven't done a few hundred.


When doing a major overhaul, I'd do it anyhow
 
Carb rebuild? Big deal... $6 kit.. 5 minutes.... 10 if you haven't done a few hundred.


When doing a major overhaul, I'd do it anyhow

OK, cool. I still don't understand the $400 in parts when every Stihl guy on here is telling me the cylinder kit is $300 and now you're saying the carb kit is $6.

The guy is giving me a parts list next week when I go pick up my saw. I told him to run a pressure/vacuum test, as advised.
 
:agree2:

BB kits are just fine for the average user, and a little porting work on them just to clean things up can make a big difference.

Not pushing porting on a first go rebuild, but do a little reading on the subject. Keep in mind though I'll port anything that I can get my hands on right from the farm tractor to pepper mill on the kitchen table.

Was that Ukelele ported also? It looked like a real good stock runner to me...
 
No, but I'm going to open it up one day soon, got a little tweaking I want to do. I used titebond on the back based on someones advice rather than traditional hide glue, wouldn't you know it the glue joint has crept.

Anyway back to the saw, don't know what the infactuation is here with the dealer. Me I loose patients really quick with someone trying to sell me a $6 carb kit for $20 and a Jug and piston at $400 when a perfectly servicable set can be had for $125.

My moto "Do it yourself if you can, if you can't learn. do it yourself if you have the tools, if you don't get the tools you need."

Nothing is complicated about installing a carb kit, or putting a new piston and cylinder on, tools you need likely won't cost as much as the dealer carb kit even if you don't own a single screw driver to start. There is more than enough info and advice here to get you through the job.
 
Oh.. He'll sell you the carb kit for a bunch more.. but... less then $20...:)

Don't count on it. I think, based on the outrageous p&c price, that when the dealer says the previous owner "messed up the carb real bad", he's setting the OP up for big money to fix it.
 
Anyway back to the saw, don't know what the infactuation is here with the dealer. Me I loose patients really quick with someone trying to sell me a $6 carb kit for $20 and a Jug and piston at $400 when a perfectly servicable set can be had for $125.

My moto "Do it yourself if you can, if you can't learn. do it yourself if you have the tools, if you don't get the tools you need."

:agree2: :agree2: +10
 
You said you've rebuilt carbs before... so I would go ahead and do it anyways. It will be nice to have a new diaphram in the carb to push a good shot of fuel into the cylinder.

No real special tools... maybe a small ring compressor. But even that can be done without using one...

If you got saws you can use for now... use this saw as your learing tool.

Good luck...

Gary
 
I have to say that I love the way this has turned into a "we hate your dealer" thread, yet the ONLY thing we know about the dealer is what the OP told us! Is there a chance that the dealer just said, "You'll have about $400 in parts," but it will actually turn out to be $329.56???? The OP said he doesn't HAVE the parts list yet.

So we would all like the dealer better if he gave him the P&C, and carb kit for cost, did the complete job for no labor charge, and gave a 1 year no questions warranty too???

Please understand that I am NOT saying this is the case, but I have dealt with customers that have made very bad ebay transactions before. They are pi$$ed off when they walk in the door, and many times, they have already been here looking at saws and asking a bazillion questions so they can get an idea of how much they should bid on a saw. They get the ebay junk, and, well, it's junk. Now they want me to look at it for free because as soon as I charge them for my time, their "deal" gets even worse. They have buyers remorse, but instead of the ebay sellers dealing with it, I have to deal with it when I give them a "ballpark" price for an upper end kit. I had one customer tell me that a P&C kit COULDN'T be around $300, because he only paid $150 for the saw?????

Lets just wait this one out before we throw this dealer to the hungry lions.
 
Nothing wrong with a dealer route if you got more cash than time. But it's worth the while long run to learn a few basic things yourself. Also learning to source some parts at a more reasonable rate is only fair. Dealer will still get enough money off the things you can't get aftermarket or want to keep brand name.
 
Today they left a voicemail that let me know that the saw was ready to be picked up. They said it passed the p/v test, but they left it disassembled since I would need to take it apart again, anyway, to put in the new parts. Now I know you saw aces out there would appreciate that, but if they don't reassemble it, I think I'll have a lot tougher time putting it all back together again if I don't get to break it down, initially, to start my saw education. I have the 440 shop manual (this is a 460), but don't you guys think I should start with an assembled saw?
 
Last edited:
It should only have the top end removed... P&C and the carb and such. If the cases were split... then it would be a little more difficult.

Go for it... A top end can be done with some basic tools.

Gary
 
:monkey:


If all they did was a PV test.... all they have done (or needed to do) is loosened the muffer and taken off the carb..
 
:monkey:


If all they did was a PV test.... all they have done (or needed to do) is loosened the muffer and taken off the carb..

No, they checked out the piston and cylinder, too. They also pulled the carb.
What I don't want is to get back a bag of parts. While the reassembly may be "intuitive" to you guys, I have a feeling it won't be to me. I think I may just tell them to reassemble it before I pick it up. Thanks for the input.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top