tallyho8
New Member
I sharpened the chain on my Husky and now it is cutting the log to the left instead of a straight cut. I am sure this means I sharpened it unevenly and one side of the chain needs to be sharpened more, but which side?
I sharpened the chain on my Husky and now it is cutting the log to the left instead of a straight cut. I am sure this means I sharpened it unevenly and one side of the chain needs to be sharpened more, but which side?
Some good advice but some questionable too. Flipping the bar every time is no guarantee of evening out wear. If the bar was crooked when you flipped it, it will be crooked when you flip it back unless you dress it square in the mean time.
Maybe you need to clarify how the tips of the cutters get further apart when you file them back; unless I am confused, filing makes them each shorter but they all move rearward.
Most of us are stronger on filing one side and so giving an even number of strokes to each cutter usually results in one sides cutters getting shorter than the other unless you use some method to compensate like grunting harder on your weak side. Still you have to eyeball or measure cutter length on an ongoing basis and correct before it gets to far out of whack.
I have seen guys go through the motions of sharpening a chain and not hold the file up enough to touch the edge of the top cutter at all. All they sharpened was the lower part of the side cutter and really it is only the top quarter of the side cutter and the top plate that does any work. My guess is this is likely the cause of the crooked cutting iby the original poster.
I sharpened the chain on my Husky and now it is cutting the log to the left instead of a straight cut. I am sure this means I sharpened it unevenly and one side of the chain needs to be sharpened more, but which side?
Some good advice but some questionable too. Flipping the bar every time is no guarantee of evening out wear. If the bar was crooked when you flipped it, it will be crooked when you flip it back unless you dress it square in the mean time.
Maybe you need to clarify how the tips of the cutters get further apart when you file them back; unless I am confused, filing makes them each shorter but they all move rearward.
Most of us are stronger on filing one side and so giving an even number of strokes to each cutter usually results in one sides cutters getting shorter than the other unless you use some method to compensate like grunting harder on your weak side. Still you have to eyeball or measure cutter length on an ongoing basis and correct before it gets to far out of whack.
I have seen guys go through the motions of sharpening a chain and not hold the file up enough to touch the edge of the top cutter at all. All they sharpened was the lower part of the side cutter and really it is only the top quarter of the side cutter and the top plate that does any work. My guess is this is likely the cause of the crooked cutting iby the original poster.
Laughing, still dont agree on the increase of distance between cutters. Yes if you shorten one cutter the distance from its tip to the one in front will be greater, BUT the distance to the one behind it will be less and the average will still be the same. The only way you can increase the average distance between cutters is to incur wear in the rivets.
Anyways we agree that it is important to keep fairly equal lengths of cutter and raker, sharpness and shape side to side on the chain, and the bar rails square.
First a simple question. Did you alternate the direction you filed on every other tooth?I sharpened the chain on my Husky and now it is cutting the log to the left instead of a straight cut. I am sure this means I sharpened it unevenly and one side of the chain needs to be sharpened more, but which side?
I could be wrong, but I think OMT is talking about the distance between the cutting edge of one cutter and the rear of the next in front. Making one cutter shorter than another will result in a different measurement in the distance described.
Jack
I sharpened the chain on my Husky and now it is cutting the log to the left instead of a straight cut. I am sure this means I sharpened it unevenly and one side of the chain needs to be sharpened more, but which side?
Yes, the chain is much easier in that regard, I agree. The large crosscut saws of lore, were a chore and required a special cant file. You have about 3 or 4 different angles to file, as well as the gullet on top. They do cut well when sharp though.Traditional tool, imagine how much easier it is to put a chainsaw chain back in shape compared to all involved to do a real good job on a wonked up crosscut saw. My respect goes to the old woods man that could keep one of them cutting well and supply the power.
Couple of quick tips that may help
1. When sharpening the chain, place it in a vice which pinches the bar but allows free rotation of the chain. Rotate the chain with your file, not your fingers! Find the tooth in worst condition and file it untill it is sharp and count the strokes. Apply the same number of strokes to every other tooth. This will give you relatively even tooth wear for the life of the chain.
2. Regularly remove the bar and replace it upside down to avoid uneven wear. We do this weekly when the saws get a thorough clean.
If you want to sort out the existing chain then it is simple enough to make a jig. What you might call a guide. Measure the length between tooth tips on the "sharp" side and mark this on a piece of light gauge steel. Cut the steel to length with a pair of tin snips and bend the corners down. Hey presto you have an instant length guide. Use this guide to file the teeth on the "blunt" side and the chain will be close to "even".
Oh, I should have mentioned, the "sharp" side will have a greater gap between the tips of the teeth so it will be easy enough to figure out which side needs more filing. The guide will only be useful this once as the gap between tips increases each time you sharpen the chain.
Good luck!:greenchainsaw:
Apologies one and all for this poor piece of typing. In my defense it was late over here!
I meant measure from the BACK of each tooth to the TIP of the next tooth. The jig I suggested using only works if you use it from the rear of the tooth to the front of the next.
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