Detail tools...
Bars:
I do most of my carving with the biggest saw I can get into the piece just to reduce my time but when it comes to detail, the 12" dime tip is what I reach for most often. I have no preference of manufacturer. And I recently bought a used saw with a really short [8"?] roller tip bar which I'm finding to be really useful.
Sanders:
Ryobi 4" angle grinder with a 24 grit flap wheel for 90% of my carvings.
Makita 30mm belt sander for smaller areas, dragon scales, beaks, etc.
Largish orbital sander for bench seats and large curves like whales and dolphins.
Sealant:
Keep changing my mind. Currently back to spar varnish. I paint the end grain, cracks, etc with a brush to get lots in on the first coat then spray it twice more before sending the carving out the gate. If the wood was really dry, I sometimes start with a coat of boiled linseed oil the apply varnish when the oil is dry.
A few cans of spray paint can be handy to darken shadow areas which were difficult to burn, make the carving base the color of grass or water, add a little snow to a mountain scene, etc.
Other:
Makita 1/4" die grinder [variable speed] with a small assortment of burs and rasps [rotary files]. Chuck-up a rotary file with a flat end and secure the die grinder in a vise or clamped to a table. Run at a low speed and hollow out the end of the rasp by using a dremel with a grinding stone bit. This homemade tool is great for making eyes because it carves and burns at the same time.
Dremel with a short, course bit and a grinding stone bit.
Weed burner and propane tank. Hand held propane torches have their place but when the carving gets to be over 18" tall, I want a flame thrower!
Note on a carving which you've sanded after burning to remove some of the black, like a killer whale's white patches and belly, the burned material can contaminate your varnish when using a brush. In that case, spray the first coat to avoid dirtying up your sanded areas.
That should eat up a couple weeks pay
Butch
www.WoodHacker.com