372xp restoration

[gmcman]

I have what seems to be a limiting screw on the carb needles....either permanent or a slip-on type. I tried to pull them off gently but would not come off...do these come off....I don't wanna break anything.

I opened the H needle as far as the limiter would allow, giving me a 4-cycle blubber at WOT...tach was right between 13.5K and 14K with no chain.

I assume this will change with B&C, so are these set at the factory like this or can I remove these caps?

 

[blsnelling]

I would recommend that you NOT rev your saw like that with no chain on it. You're putting 0 load on the engine

 

[gmcman]

That's what I was thinking, have heard to set the idle without B&C but didn't hear much on high RPM's...which is why I ran it up once as rich as I could. Need not worry, B&C is going on before I fire it up again.

Here's the screws, do the B&W sleeves come off? I can get 3/4 turn out of each screw the way it is.

 

[Evan]

yes rip those limiters off and toss em in the trash. they are just pressed on splinges and will come off.

you might take pair of dikes and break them off

 

[Guarddog1]

I would recommend that you NOT rev your saw like that with no chain on it. You're putting 0 load on the engine

Just a quick question what is difference in revving it with a bar and chain vs no bar and chain. Load or no load if the max rpm is set there really should be no difference. I rev my car as well as my dirt bike with no load never hurt them. In fact check this out this off the saw tuning section of Madsens web site.

Set the high speed fuel adjustment. Hold the trigger wide open and check the RPM with the tachometer. The listing below identifies the maximum RPM setting for popular pro saws without bar & chain:

* STIHL 044, MS440, 046, MS460 - 13,500 RPM
* STIHL 066, MS660 - 13,000 RPM
* STIHL 084, 088, MS880 - 11,500 RPM
* HUSQVARNA 272, 372 - 13,500 RPM
* HUSQVARNA 288, 385, 390, 394, 395 - 13,000 RPM
* HUSQVARNA 3120 - 11,500 RPM

The only time I have ever hurt anything from revving it was a car but that was oveeerrrr revving with boat loads of nitrous oxide in the mix not a pretty end result. And that baby was under plenty of load. I may be wrong with this one (not usually LOL) but please elaborate if you will on what the danger is if it does not exceed the max RPM of the particular saw.

http://www.madsens1.com/saw carb tune.htm

 

[Evan]

i agree with you

 

[blsnelling]

Here's the screws, do the B&W sleeves come off? I can get 3/4 turn out of each screw the way it is.

Do not toss the caps. They make it much easier to tune the saw since they hold the screwdriver on the screw. All you have to do is take a sharp razor knife and cut the stops off without even removing them.

 

[gmcman]

Very well, thanks again.

Now, another area I forgot to touch on is the oiler. Could be it's running down the side of the saw but i'm not sure if the port that is against the bar is the only point of lubrication. Seems to be a fair amount of oil coming from behind the clutch when I tip it on it's side. The adjustment screw was turned out 4 turns when I received it and there was sawdust caked behind the clutch soaked with oil....alot.

I understand oily sawdust residue gets built up in this area but i'm hoping there's not a leak somewhere.

 

[SawTroll]

Do not toss the caps. They make it much easier to tune the saw since they hold the screwdriver on the screw. All you have to do is take a sharp razor knife and cut the stops off without even removing them.

:agree2:

 

[Evan]

i havent had problem with removeing the caps on both my 359 and 372.

i tune with the top covers off so i can see where the screwdriver is going.

but yeah the cover does guide your screwdriver. so thats your call.

 

[gmcman]

Everything works great, oiler was just cranked up and with the B&C it works as it should...no leaks.

Runs like a champ, will get pics later and maybe a vid, needs a chainbrake handle so until then it will sit. Thanks so much for the help.

 

[gmcman]

I have been waiting for an air filter top, chain catcher, brake handle, & oil cap for about 2 weeks, apparently got shipped to the wrong address but i'm gonna put up some pics anyway using the old ones....before I get it dirty again .

Re-used the starter cover since it was still in decent shape as well as the main handle. So is it really a restoration...that's when you replace everything or touch-up on everything but either way it's alot better than when I bought it.

Bar is 24" by GB, and wearing a Woodland Pro chain. I think a 20" would balance it better but this will surely work for now :greenchainsaw:

Not much different from any ole 372, but I blame all of you for it.

 

[blsnelling]

Looks nearly like a new saw. Very nice work!

 

[gmcman]

Thanks.

Couldn't fix the clutch cover, was cracked pretty good. Got a smoking deal on a tank, top cover, clutch cover from a demo saw but rest is elbow and paint .

Ended up with about $420 into it total, new air filter, b&c, muff put me over my plan but still a deal. Them Hu$ky parts add up quick .

 

[little possum]

Wow, cant believe I missed the final update. Nice work. Glad Kim had what you needed. Hopefully they will be able to hook me up here soon

 

[bjorn773]

Nice work, looks like new. I'm waiting on a 365 I just bought on ebay yesterday. One comment has me thinking here.... someone mentioned not to do a bb kit in these saws do to too many negatives. What are the negatives? I was planning to do a bb or at least go to a 372 p&c.

 

[parrisw]

Nice work, looks like new. I'm waiting on a 365 I just bought on ebay yesterday. One comment has me thinking here.... someone mentioned not to do a bb kit in these saws do to too many negatives. What are the negatives? I was planning to do a bb or at least go to a 372 p&c.

Aftermarket BB is a good economical option, if the saw need a new P&C, putting on an OEM 372 P&C is a very good Idea!!

 

[bjorn773]

I'm referring to Bailey's 52mm BB Kit or similar on ebay. Any problems with these vs. OEM P&C?

 

[bjorn773]

I bought the 365 with the plan of tearing it down and installing a 51 or 52mm P&C. It was cheaper than buying a 372 and should more or less be the same saw when done. I'll hang onto the old 365 P&C or maybe sell it on ebay.

 

[parrisw]

You should be fine with it, they had some troubles at first. I'd buy from Baileys, they really stand behind their product.