372xp restoration

[gmcman]

Cool thanks, have a couple of those lying around. I remember a bolt being there but not sure if something was attached to the other side.

If I had the air conductor that routes the wires it would be back together tonight...:censored:

If you have never installed the intake boot be prepared to have your kids leave the room for awhile to avoid having to add to the swear jar. I'm surprised all went back together without any broken plastic

After a few trials and removal of carb pieces....I finally figured it out

Just a good stopping point for tonight.

 

[parrisw]

Cool thanks, have a couple of those lying around. I remember a bolt being there but not sure if something was attached to the other side.

If I had the air conductor that routes the wires it would be back together tonight...:censored:

If you have never installed the intake boot be prepared to have your kids leave the room for awhile to avoid having to add to the swear jar. I'm surprised all went back together without any broken plastic

After a few trials and removal of carb pieces....I finally figured it out

Just a good stopping point for tonight.

Put the intake boot on the cylinder before putting the cylinder on. Its easy.

 

[gmcman]

Next time definately :agree2:

I already had the jug sealed and bolted and wasn't going to break the seal....unless I really had to.

 

[parrisw]

Right, been there done that!!

 

[blsnelling]

Look in your bolt pile from the dis-assembly. Find one that has no threads on the end of the bolt. That is the one that goes into that space.

+1. That's the one.

 

[gmcman]

Couldn't believe my local dealer had one air conductor in stock .

Should be back together today and hopefully running.

 

[blsnelling]

Couldn't believe my local dealer had one air conductor in stock .

Should be back together today and hopefully running.

Must be your lucky day. That doesn't happen very often!

 

[gmcman]

I had to begin the conversation with low hopes, told him I need to order a part and have the #, since it's such an oddball part you likely don't have it.

"Have one left in stock" :jawdrop:

Almost felt like I was told to take the day off with pay.

 

[gmcman]

Was on the way to take some pics since it was only a few more things to bolt up....when the new muffler mounting tubes are too small for the M6 bolts :censored:.

It's always something.

 

[Urbicide]

Was on the way to take some pics since it was only a few more things to bolt up....when the new muffler mounting tubes are too small for the M6 bolts :censored:.

It's always something.

The 372XP normally uses a M5 bolt in the tube. Was the jug on your saw re-tapped for a M6?

 

[gmcman]

Seems just about everything is M5 but the muffler has two M6's for the cyl mount...this is from the shop manual:

"Remove the two M5-bolts and the two M6-bolts and lift off the silencer and silencer mount. See fig. 9.

The wall of the tube is substantially thicker.

 

[SawTroll]

This sounds odd - are you putting on another muffler than the original?

 

[Urbicide]

It appears that you will need much longer bolts than the original ones. The heads will ride on the outside end of the tubes rather than sitting inside of them. I read the part on silencer removal/installation in the workshop manual (page 14) where it does mention M6 bolts. Now the specialty tool list in the same workshop manual only mentions 3,4,5 M Allen wrenches. My 2003 manufactured 372XP has M5 bolts inside of the tubes. Does that new muffler have a Husqvarna part # on it? It might be a newer version if it does have or it might be an aftermarket muffler if it does not. opcorn:


You are right. It is always something.

 

[SawTroll]

I can't find any service bulletin covering this issue - if they changed the size of the bolt there should have been one......

 

[gmcman]

Spoke with the baileys and they noticed this as well, they are taking care of the prob.

 

[Urbicide]

They are good people.

 

[rupedoggy]

Looks like Chineese after market and the bugs aren't worked out yet.

 

[gmcman]

I'm sure it is, plan on modding the muffler, but in case it gets boogered up I didn't want to be out twice as much.

 

[rupedoggy]

Modify that rusty one. It will be so much better you won't want to get any other. I would rather have a bent OEM than a new Chicom.

 

[gmcman]

It............is................aliiiiive. :chainsawguy:

No pics yet, can't have a half-naked saw for a finished pic.

Once it fired, warmed up, idled perfect.

Revs like an F1 motor but prolly since there is no chain, I don't want to over-rev it. I assume I cannot set the high needle without the chain so that's next. As far as max RPM's..is there really any it can't take? I know 20K would be a stretch but for what it has for fuel delivery...can these saws really rev too high for what the rotating mass can tolerate...or basically, what is the absolute max it can take?

I just want to know this from a tuning standpoint.

I rekkon it will be quite a bit more fun than my 340