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jhays

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I have a yr old 455, running skip chain and 20 inch oregon. Lately is been eating chains up. As soon as its a touch dull, the chain smokes like a bastard. I adjusted a little more oil, and there is oil on it, but it smokes and chews. Im cutting hardwood, but nonetheless have never had a problem with it.
 
Right - if the chain has oil on it and when you rev the saw and point it at some fresh sawn wood, you can see oil residue form, you have a working oiler.

Two possible causes, the chain CUTTERS are blunt or just poorly sharpened - get some info on this from this site or download the Oregon chain care PDF.

The other cause - you havent filed down the rakers and these are keeping the cutters off the wood and you are literally grinding the wood with the rakers rather than cutting it - usual signs are the saw produces sawdust rather than chips - the same will happen with a blunt chain - if the tops of your cutters are polished and rounded off then sharpen both the cutters and lower the rakers.

Stihl do a small raker gauge that will help lots in getting the right depth to ensure efficient cutting.

If you haven't a clue on sharpening, fit a new chain and if this solves the problem, learn to sharpen using the old one.

Spud
 
Get rid of your skip chain, a 455 doesnt have the power to use it effectively, more drag, more clogging, more heat produced. Save your skip chain for the soft stuff.
 
Thanks guy. I went with the skip becuase it cuts better. IS there a better cutting chain then the regular ones they come with? What should I use, its mostly for regular fire wood, no huge stuff. How should I sharpen my chains?
 
is the smoke from the chain or the bar tip. worn bar tipps smoke ,they also bind the chain making it seem like its bogging. the other thing is the spur/rim drive or sprocket. is it chewed up or channeled from the drive links on the chain.
 
One of the best chains that I have found in dirty wood is the semi-chisel offered by Baileys under their woodland pro brand. For sharpening chains I like the husky roller file guide with the raker gauge attached makes it very simple to do and keeps everything together. You know your chain is as sharp as its going to get when hand filing when you can feel a small burr of metal all the way across the top of the sawtooth when you run your fingernail over it. Wish you lots of luck.:)
 
I own a 455 Rancher. I run a .050 gauge 20" Husqvarna Laminated sprocket-nose bar with 3/8" Oregon 72LGX chisel chain. I also cut a LOT of hardwood like yourself and this set-up has treated me good. But as DarkTimber said, semi-chisel is great for rough, dirty cutting. Here's the link to Oregon's website: http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/products/chain/72_73_75LGX-JGXSuperGuard.htm

Have fun.
 
I own a 455 Rancher. I run a .050 gauge 20" Husqvarna Laminated sprocket-nose bar with 3/8" Oregon 72LGX chisel chain. I also cut a LOT of hardwood like yourself and this set-up has treated me good. But as DarkTimber said, semi-chisel is great for rough, dirty cutting. Here's the link to Oregon's website: http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/products/chain/72_73_75LGX-JGXSuperGuard.htm

Have fun.

+1 on the LGX chain. That's what I use on my 455 Rancher. It has been an excellent saw for me.


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One of the best chains that I have found in dirty wood is the semi-chisel offered by Baileys under their woodland pro brand. For sharpening chains I like the husky roller file guide with the raker gauge attached makes it very simple to do and keeps everything together. You know your chain is as sharp as its going to get when hand filing when you can feel a small burr of metal all the way across the top of the sawtooth when you run your fingernail over it. Wish you lots of luck.:)

:agree2::agree2::agree2:
 

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