My lovely new to me 357xp!!

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I've tried 'em all

My 357XP came with a 20 inch, 3/8, 058 bar. It was OK, but not impressive for sure. Swapped it for 16 inch 3/8 .058 set up. Really ripped very nicely with that combo. After I got the 346XP the 16 inch 3/8 bar went on it and the 357XP got an 18 inch 3/8 058 bar that is currently on there. Balances very well and the saw has the guts to pull a good chip when the bar is completely buried.

Can you mount a 24 inch bar on a 357XP? Sure, but it's going to be a real dog and not perform anywhere near what you're used to nor as Husky intended it to run. Besides that a 24 inch small mount Husky bar is not a common thing and they cost between $75 and $80 around here. Also the longer bars put more torque and stress on the clutch and bottom end of the saw. OK for occasional use and work in soft wood, but for 24 inch bars are the realm of the 70+ cc saws

I think the largest bar i would put on it would be an 18, it is plenty for my needs, but it's also nice to know that i could go to 20 if i needed it. :)

Thanks for the info, much appreciated.
 
18" sounds much better than 20" on that saw, but with that wood a 16" wood really be enough!


I always liked 18 but a 16" bar was good too.

His saw is a 2005 model. He needs to check the carb type, intake clamp type, and the decomp style. Lots of stuff that has changed with the saw over the years.

2010 is the last year for the 357xp.



.
 
It doesnt have a decompression valve. It is running mint, or seems to be. Starts, idles and cuts fine. I don't think i will be muffler modding it. Which one is the 'wrong' carb then?
 
I always liked 18 but a 16" bar was good too.

His saw is a 2005 model. He needs to check the carb type, intake clamp type, and the decomp style. Lots of stuff that has changed with the saw over the years.

2010 is the last year for the 357xp.



.


Yes, all that is worth checking, but I wouldn't really worry about the carb as long as it runs right.

The 357xp was a quite troubled model.
 
Yes, all that is worth checking, but I wouldn't really worry about the carb as long as it runs right.

The 357xp was a quite troubled model.


My 357 Cat muffler is no longer working:hmm3grin2orange:



DSC_0021.jpg





.
 
It doesnt have a decompression valve. ....

That (+ that it is a 2005 one) makes me think that it has the "auto-decompression", that caused a lot of problems. Just be aware of it, in case it starts acting "funny" (like running lean). They caused enough problems to make them stop using them, and put ordinary decomp valves on later ones, but that doesn't mean that all will go bad (as with the Walbro carbs).
 
BLIMEY!!! It is completely different to my 346, it revs and revs and revs, and is seriously like lightening!! How does 6-7cc's make that much difference?
I told ya before, something is wrong with that 346 :hmm3grin2orange:
My old 346 is faster than my 357 in wood under 12"...

357xp The more I use mine, the more I like it! I run 3/8"x 18" most of the time. Also have a 20" bar that has seen a lot of work this Fall on 24"-30" Oak. It pulls it fine and has done very well in larger wood. Mine is also an older model and has the troubled Walbro carb, but it runs fantastic :D

Enjoy your new/old saw. :cheers:
 
When I removed the muffler the port where it bolts to the cylinder was covered in black hunk, is this a sign it is running too lean or rich? It's not smoking or anything like that. I am using 50:1 mix and itseems to be running fine. ???

Cheers, David.
 
Congrats on the saw,you will love it. I sold mine recently, because I was using it less and my 7900 more.
geoff.

:cheers:
 
I run a 18" on my 357xp. It is just about perfect for that saw,imo. I have a Walbro carb and it runs perfect. If your saw runs fine don't mess with the carb. At some point you may want to change the intake clamp to the metal style-they did have issues with intake leaks causing saw to run lean.

Great saw. Enjoy.
 
It doesnt have a decompression valve.

Yes it does. Check out the cylinder over the clutch cover. You see it screwed into the cylinder with a hose that runs back to a port near the intake. That's the auto decomp. Husky ditched that after a couple years. My 357XPG is an earlier one that had the auto decomp and plastic boot clamp, but still late enough to have the beefed up crankcase around the handlebar mount. I tossed (into the parts bin) the auto decomp, plugged off the intake port and installed a regular decomp button (which isn't really necessary). Go to Husky's website and download some 357 IPLs. All the part numbers you need for the conversion are supplied by Husky. Don't forget the intake clamp.

Nowadays I wouldn't buy the saw. But I got it when they are still going cheap on the internet. Brand new with heated handles for $496! Coudn't beat that.

Chris B.
 
When I removed the muffler the port where it bolts to the cylinder was covered in black hunk, is this a sign it is running too lean or rich? It's not smoking or anything like that. I am using 50:1 mix and itseems to be running fine. ???

Cheers, David.

Probably running a little rich, or has a lot of hours on it. I wouldn't worry at all.
 
cbfarmall;2622442 Nowadays I wouldn't buy the saw. But I got it when they are still going cheap on the internet. Brand new with heated handles for $496! Coudn't beat that. Chris B.[/QUOTE said:
Yup, the price now is outrageous, but a former site sponsor had powerheads for $450 in 2006, where I got mine. I just got a new 18" pro-lite bar and LGX for it,(thanks TreeStuff). It did balance fine with a solid 20" bar, but this setup is noticeably lighter and very nimble. It is pretty much my one saw plan for firewood, and given me no trouble at all.
 
Cheers sunfish. I'm not worried about it, its running like a raped ape!! Lol. Thanks for the advice about the decompression, when I said it doesn't have one I meant the button. thanks for three tips for the ipl too.

might swap the clutch cover for the silver 346 ones with some new plastics... haha :)
 

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