Anal or not?

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I have read all posts so far and it seems alot of you have no idea what your talking about.I don't understand this wrecking the threads or stripping the threads thing.I sold my 266SE that I used for over 20 years and I cleaned it the same way and had no stripped threads or worn out threads.Maybe some of you tighten everything too tight.I worked on the neighbors saw a few weeks ago and tried to loosen the bar nuts and I think he put them on with an air wrench.I showed him how to tighten them the right way.I have an 44 Rancher I got used in 1983 that I clean the same way and no stripped threads.You guys can spend endless hours on this site replying to threads but can't take a few minutes to clean your saws the right way is just anal to me.I will keep cleaning my saws the same way I have always cleaned them regardless.I don't see how you can clean a 346 air cleaner without taking it off.I have to get ready for work now but will be back tonight with more.Heres my 266SE I sold a couple years ago with no stripped anything.



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When I'm done cutting I take my saw apart somewhat.
I remove the bar and chain, I sharpen the chain, clean the clutch cover and everything under it.
And then blow everything off with air.
That is as far as I go for a days use.
 
There is another way to look at this too. If your saw is kept clean, when you do HAVE to work on it or fix something broken half the work is done already. Most folks bring me a saw to work on that is completely flithy, I look at them and say "Are you going to clean that or am I?? It'll cost more to clean it enough to put a piston in it than the piston costs!!!" Another benefit of frequent cleaning is you are familiar with your saw and can usually spot a problem before it becomes one. Not a bad thing at all........not for everyone, but you seem to get quite afew yrs from a saw...as they say "the proof is in the pudding" Do what you do and be happy.:cheers:
 
I dont go that far but pretty close lol when i cut i usually cut a pretty good volume of wood...for me anyway:chainsawguy: i do the following:

Remove B & C
Blow off PH and clutch cover
Blow out bar rails and oiling holes
Check Air filter, blow off if needed
Re-install B & C
File Chain if needed
Blow off whole saw
Re-fill Oil and Gas
 
I have read all posts so far and it seems alot of you have no idea what your talking about.I don't understand this wrecking the threads or stripping the threads thing.I sold my 266SE that I used for over 20 years and I cleaned it the same way and had no stripped threads or worn out threads.Maybe some of you tighten everything too tight.I worked on the neighbors saw a few weeks ago and tried to loosen the bar nuts and I think he put them on with an air wrench.I showed him how to tighten them the right way.I have an 44 Rancher I got used in 1983 that I clean the same way and no stripped threads.You guys can spend endless hours on this site replying to threads but can't take a few minutes to clean your saws the right way is just anal to me.I will keep cleaning my saws the same way I have always cleaned them regardless.I don't see how you can clean a 346 air cleaner without taking it off.I have to get ready for work now but will be back tonight with more.Heres my 266SE I sold a couple years ago with no stripped anything.



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Holy cow you keep clean saws. I have spent more time with motorcycles, always admired a clean bike. Clean bike=easy spotting of things that can take your life.
That said, I don't think my bike was ever as clean as your powersaws.
 
I have read all posts so far and it seems alot of you have no idea what your talking about.I don't understand this wrecking the threads or stripping the threads thing.I sold my 266SE that I used for over 20 years and I cleaned it the same way and had no stripped threads or worn out threads.Maybe some of you tighten everything too tight.I worked on the neighbors saw a few weeks ago and tried to loosen the bar nuts and I think he put them on with an air wrench.I showed him how to tighten them the right way.I have an 44 Rancher I got used in 1983 that I clean the same way and no stripped threads.You guys can spend endless hours on this site replying to threads but can't take a few minutes to clean your saws the right way is just anal to me.I will keep cleaning my saws the same way I have always cleaned them regardless.I don't see how you can clean a 346 air cleaner without taking it off.I have to get ready for work now but will be back tonight with more.Heres my 266SE I sold a couple years ago with no stripped anything.



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I blow my saws off and wipe them down after cutting, but tearing it all down including the recoil is not needed, I dont see that its gonna hurt anything but most people dont have time for it. A saw is made to work in dirt and dust, it should be kept clean but no need to detail it after every use.
 
I wouldn't make fun of anyone if I dressed my dog in a sailor suit!

Now that's funny, I don't care who your are.......my dog just won't wear anything but her eight year old shaggy black & white fur coat!

I do clean my equipment after each use, but I'm more of a "Brake-Clean" and air hose guy. I'm a little more careful with my mower decks. I raise them and pressure wash them after each mowing because of the acid attack from dead grass. I've increased the life of my decks by many years by careful cleaning. My first two rotted and rusted decks were not maintained by prior owners and I paid the price, until I learned to restore them and keep them clean after restoration. My current "daily driver" deck is a '93 model, used four hours/week, nine months per year.

I know, get a cow/goat/sheep, etc! Forget it, I don't feed my tractor in the winter, and it never wanders over to the neighbor's to eat their grass! I shoveled out barn stalls for the first 20 years of my farm heritage, I'm retired!
 
That's, perhaps, a little... excessive.

Still, there's nothing wrong with taking care of your gear. I'm not gonna be the one to make fun of you.

:agree2:

I would only worry about damaging the threads ofter removing a recoil 100 times or so. You paid good money for your saws so there is nothing at all wrong with taking good care of them.
 
That saw will be worn out from fastener hole degradation long before it's worn out from use. That's just plain stupid.

Screw holes and anal?.........Ima just back out this thread real slow and try not to drop the soap on my way out........

Ya I agree..you'll be $hitting out loaves of bread if you keep that up.

Aye aye Cap'n sphincter!

Geez....some people need to think about the title to their threads before posting. He left that door wiiiidde open.







(get it? Anal, wide open?)

Ok I'm outta here
 
Good for you in keeping your saws clean like that, if it feels good to you then do it. I am like many here I blow my saws off with air, take the bar and chain off and sharpen if necessary. I clean the bar rails and under the clutch cover with super clean or similar stuff, take a look at the air filter and top off fluids so she is ready for the next trip.
 
If you have the time & the desire to keep your equipment that immaculant, then go for it. I seriously doubt that it would hurt the re-sale value of any thing to have been maintained that religously. I would also assume that you have all of the original paperwork stored away safely. Guys here would be posting pics of their "like-new" acquisitions & bragging about how nice they were.

On the other hand, a good thick layer of bar oil & saw dust can help preserve a long forgotten, abandoned, or just neglected saw much like a coating of cosmoline would. (There is also something to be said for the preserving qualities resulting from the use of extremely high oil to fuel mixtures. Just hope the fuel tank & carb were run dry.) I would prefer to spend a couple of hours removing grundge from a dirty vintage saw rather than finding malignant corrosion on a clean one.
 
According to Stihl Technical Service Bulletin BS-IN-U2N2011, all saws built from Dec., 1999 are designed to operate with a layer of dust, oil and debris up to .250" thick. The bulletin goes on to say that if the layer is continually removed, a one range hotter spark plug will need to be used due to the abnormally low temps the saw experiences. Don't know about you, but I am going to make sure that my OSHA approved 30 PSI max air nozzle is used sparingly from now on!
:biggrinbounce2:
 
I'm hesitant to do heavy cleanings like that frequently because lots of screws tap into plastic and I figure they're not really made to be backed in and out all the time, and if anything does get stripped out you're kind of screwed.

Some of you may notice that the thread pitch on screws used in plastic are not regular run of the mill pitches. New plastic parts do not have any threads in them, but are formed the first time when the fastner is inserted. Anytime you re-install a screw in plastic, turn it counter clockwise with very light pressure until the fastner drops into the existing threads, then clockwise to tighten. So long as you don't torque the hell out of it then you will never cross thread it or pull the threads out.
 
I know me so I voted anal:hmm3grin2orange:
I am only cutting 5 to 8 cords a year.Back when I was cutting pulp wood I would pull the top cover and clean the air filter then blow the saw off with compressed air and sharpen the chain every night and I never had a problem with my saws but then again they were Huskys:cheers:
 
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