triumph79
ArboristSite Operative
I would like to know a basic idea of what size file sharpens what size chain. And what's better sharpening chains by hand or with a sharpener. The files I have are a 5/32,7/32,3/16.
chainsaw files and chain sharpening
- Thread starter triumph79
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5/32 for 3/8lp
3/16 for .325
7/32 for 3/8
It'll be argued up and down the river about which is better. If you can hand file, or are willing to put in the time to get good at it, then it's a good, inexpensive way to maintain your chains. If not, you can either pay to have them sharpened or you can buy a grinder and grind them. Grinding is pretty standard and most anyone can do it, but you still have to pay attention and you have to know what you're doing.
3/16 for .325
7/32 for 3/8
It'll be argued up and down the river about which is better. If you can hand file, or are willing to put in the time to get good at it, then it's a good, inexpensive way to maintain your chains. If not, you can either pay to have them sharpened or you can buy a grinder and grind them. Grinding is pretty standard and most anyone can do it, but you still have to pay attention and you have to know what you're doing.
chainsaw kid
ArboristSite Operative
and 13/64 when the cutter is close to the end on a 3/8 chain
Chain Filing
It depends, but a .325" chain takes a 3/16" file and I think generally that a 3/8" chain takes the 7/32" file. The biggest thing I have found is to buy a Granberg File-N-Joint (or equivalent). Its a jig that clamps on the bar and holds all of the filing angles so that all of the teeth get sharpened the same way. It also keeps the cutter still while you file it. Its the only way I have been able to keep the left hand and right hand cutters the same length, so the chain will cut straight and not curl to one side or the other. The other important thing is to have a supply of sharp files. A brand new file gets the cutter razor sharp. After I've used a file half a dozen times or so, it starts getting dull and quits cutting. Then its time for a new file. I usually buy a box of a dozen files bevery time I get a new chain.
The filing jig and a steady supply of new files is the best combination I've found.
It depends, but a .325" chain takes a 3/16" file and I think generally that a 3/8" chain takes the 7/32" file. The biggest thing I have found is to buy a Granberg File-N-Joint (or equivalent). Its a jig that clamps on the bar and holds all of the filing angles so that all of the teeth get sharpened the same way. It also keeps the cutter still while you file it. Its the only way I have been able to keep the left hand and right hand cutters the same length, so the chain will cut straight and not curl to one side or the other. The other important thing is to have a supply of sharp files. A brand new file gets the cutter razor sharp. After I've used a file half a dozen times or so, it starts getting dull and quits cutting. Then its time for a new file. I usually buy a box of a dozen files bevery time I get a new chain.
The filing jig and a steady supply of new files is the best combination I've found.
I want to be your dealer....:msp_mellow:
chainsaw kid
ArboristSite Operative
You guys don't like the 13/64 file?
No kidding, I even discount files at a dozen....
Yooperforeman
ArboristSite Operative
I'm thinking the same thing,I use 13/64
DarkTimber
ArboristSite Operative
Nothing wrong with the 13/64 just like the 7/32 better as I can use it on 3/8 and .404
chainsaw kid
ArboristSite Operative
Don't get me wrong, I use the 7/32 at first and will keep using 7/32 untill the cutter is a little bit past half worn out. Then switch over to the 13/64. An old logger tought me that. Before he told me about that I used 7/32 only and it always left me with a nice sharp chain but if you try what my logger friend told me about you might be surprised :0.
Either way though you can't go wrong.
eat a peach
ArboristSite Operative
^^^^^this^^^^^^^^^^^^ and one more little trick, when you start with a new file dust it liberally with baby powder. Yeah I know what is he trying to pull. The powder keeps the filings from sticking to the file grooves and hence they last longer and cut better, less clogging with metal shavings.:hmm3grin2orange:
13/64" is the file recommended for many Stihl 3/8" chains.
As to the starting with a 7/32" then when at half cutter life going with 13/64"...........ever notice how a cutter gets shorter in height as it is sharpened back? If you keep your gullet clean you can use the same file for the life of your chain.
But then that ole logger up the road gets a new chain and files off the rakers fresh out of the box, buys more av mounts than imaginable and has yet to have a saw last for more than a season before it rattles itself to death.
Hand filing is an art, if you cant get real good at it, dont bother doing it, keep your chain out of the dirt and buy more loops.
Well over half the saws I get in the shop will cut even but balsam wood if they tried, without alot of pressure and effort (butter yes.......ice cream will have to heat up the bar to make er cut it).
Sharp chains self feed, throw chips (at time a lil dust dependant upon what your cutting that ole nasty 10yr ol dead oak kinda cut), not talcum powder fine dust and burning your way through it with all your weight on the saw.
The number one problem i see with hand fied chains that still cut is, undercutting the tooth (not keeping the file high enough, creating too much of a hook angle) all this does it provide less support for the working corner and an unclean transition of the chips through the gullet.
As to the starting with a 7/32" then when at half cutter life going with 13/64"...........ever notice how a cutter gets shorter in height as it is sharpened back? If you keep your gullet clean you can use the same file for the life of your chain.
But then that ole logger up the road gets a new chain and files off the rakers fresh out of the box, buys more av mounts than imaginable and has yet to have a saw last for more than a season before it rattles itself to death.
Hand filing is an art, if you cant get real good at it, dont bother doing it, keep your chain out of the dirt and buy more loops.
Well over half the saws I get in the shop will cut even but balsam wood if they tried, without alot of pressure and effort (butter yes.......ice cream will have to heat up the bar to make er cut it).
Sharp chains self feed, throw chips (at time a lil dust dependant upon what your cutting that ole nasty 10yr ol dead oak kinda cut), not talcum powder fine dust and burning your way through it with all your weight on the saw.
The number one problem i see with hand fied chains that still cut is, undercutting the tooth (not keeping the file high enough, creating too much of a hook angle) all this does it provide less support for the working corner and an unclean transition of the chips through the gullet.
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MerchBanger
ArboristSite Member
If you really want a sharp saw- put those round files back on the shelf and learn how to goofy file.
Hillbilly Rick
ArboristSite Operative
+1 on the Granberg jig
chainsaw kid
ArboristSite Operative
Are you talking to me? I don't give a **** if you use 7/32 or 13/16...and who wouldn't notice the cutter gets shorter? Hence the 13/64 file, on some chains more then others for that matter. I still use 7/32 most of the time though and can round file with the best of them. It's ok to try out different methods. Who cares!
As for my logging buddy, he is not stupid! Enough said about that.
We're just talking about round filing chains and files in this thread. Take it easy please.
Kevin
user 64030
ArboristSite Guru
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I've been wanting to ask the question regarding the 3/8ths Stihl chain for a while now. Actually came to the PC this time intent on starting the thread and here it is kinda. Stihl recomends the 13/64th file for their 3/8ths, nearly all other 3/8ths recomends the 7/32nds. I hand file (with a jig int eh shop, free hand in the field). I was real interested in the carbide cutting jig I saw ina thread a few days ago (http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/180488.htm), but it only comes in 7/32nds, and just been wanting to know....
What do most of the folks here run on their Stihl 3/bths chain 13/64ths or 7/32nds? Seen some ansewer this already in tis thread.
dw
What do most of the folks here run on their Stihl 3/bths chain 13/64ths or 7/32nds? Seen some ansewer this already in tis thread.
dw
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Duke Thieroff
Fill your hands, you SOB!
Brandon,
Next time you're over I show you some things about a file, been practicing and getting good results.
Chris
Next time you're over I show you some things about a file, been practicing and getting good results.
Chris
