Walbro HD199 Fix

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what has walbro offered as a solution?

Just wondering if Walbro offered or suggested another model carb for the 357/359 owners? It seems strange that they would just give that business away to their main competitor.

FWIW, the HDA 191,198,199, etc sold for $150 when I priced them (2 years ago). So $25 is really a bargain to me. And if it sounds like what JustSaws is describing, it's easily worth $25. And by the way, thanks for the info Justsaws.
 
It's worth mentioning that Walbro HDA replacement kits do not have the vent hole in the diaphragm and gasket. Unless you add one the saw will barley run. I had 2 199's that would start and run at high rpm and but would not idle with the replacement diaphragm. Once I figured out the diaphragm needed the extra hole,the 199's ran perfect. Now there is still the matter of the accel pump etc,but I'm guessing there are numerous 199's tossed because the owners did not notice the issue with the replacement diaphragms. I know the Walbro kits come that way(no vent hole),but I don't know about the Husqvarna kits.
 
Here is my take on the whole thing. Brad started a thread, with the intent of sharing info, IMHO, if you don't want to share any info then why come in the thread? I think that's what Brad had a problem with originally, he wasn't mad that he would not share, no one has ever said that Scott had to divulge any info. I don't think it was the right place for Scott to advertise his work. If he wants start his own thread, advertising he can fix those carbs.

Bingo, bingo, bingo! There are lots of good posts in the last two pages here, but this one sums it up. Nothing but a phylosophy difference, and me trying to convince the masses that mine is right, lol:) I'll be the first to admit that Scott builds a great saw. He was also a great guy to hang out with at the GTG. I enjoyed meeting him. This is nothing more than a difference in how we believe in doing business. In addition to that, it affects the climate of this forum I really enjoy. I just want to see this place stay the warm, friendly (for the most part, lol), sharing place it has been. That's all. :cheers:
 
i see my buddy pirris is back.

i've given hints to what is wrong with this carb in the past.
i have never needed to remove or plug the ac pump.
i would think doing so would other performance issues.
if you have a kit wthout the vent holes, put it together without the cover and use a snug drill bit by hand to cut the holes. then put the cover on.
but thats not what the real problem is in the first place.


brad if you tryed as hard to fix the carb as you try to make me look bad you could have fixed it by now.


another thing to think about. free info may not always be good info

scott
 
i see my buddy pirris is back.

i've given hints to what is wrong with this carb in the past.
i have never needed to remove or plug the ac pump.
i would think doing so would other performance issues.
if you have a kit wthout the vent holes, put it together without the cover and use a snug drill bit by hand to cut the holes. then put the cover on.
but thats not what the real problem is in the first place.


brad if you tryed as hard to fix the carb as you try to make me look bad you could have fixed it by now.


another thing to think about. free info may not always be good info

scott

Who's pirris?
 
Blocking off the apump certainly does change the operating characteristics of the carb.

Typical results-

If you only drill out the factory plug, carb will be to rich.

If you block the pump without drilling out plug carb will be to lean.

If you block ap and drill out the plug the carb will be tunable but very VERY fussy. The h/l screws will have to be tuned inconjuction and it is not ready until the carb comes off of WOT to idle without dying. The difference being that the saw will transfer from idle to WOT very nicely all day long in a wide assortment of H/L positions but only hang onto idle from WOT in one.

It can be tuned and make a very nice running carb but if the Zama is hard to tune then a person should pass unless they are really really motivated or perhaps bored.

Hmmm, what causes a carb to not catch idle from WOT? Aside from blocking off the apump and drilling a hole through a plug.

Hey folks at least it is not another oil thread. Although it did spend a good bit of time pretending to be a "what is this worth thread".

Buy the Zama.
 
Blocking off the apump certainly does change the operating characteristics of the carb.

Typical results-

If you only drill out the factory plug, carb will be to rich.

If you block the pump without drilling out plug carb will be to lean.

If you block ap and drill out the plug the carb will be tunable but very VERY fussy. The h/l screws will have to be tuned inconjuction and it is not ready until the carb comes off of WOT to idle without dying. The difference being that the saw will transfer from idle to WOT very nicely all day long in a wide assortment of H/L positions but only hang onto idle from WOT in one.

It can be tuned and make a very nice running carb but if the Zama is hard to tune then a person should pass unless they are really really motivated or perhaps bored.

Hmmm, what causes a carb to not catch idle from WOT? Aside from blocking off the apump and drilling a hole through a plug.

Hey folks at least it is not another oil thread. Although it did spend a good bit of time pretending to be a "what is this worth thread".

Buy the Zama.

Thanks for spending the time! I did try plugging off the accelerator pump and the results like yours, were too lean.
I ended up buying the zama, I found one like Brad said, for less than $50 shipped to my door I think it was $43 without shipping. The saw has been running very well for over a year now.
 
Blocking off the apump certainly does change the operating characteristics of the carb.

Typical results-

If you only drill out the factory plug, carb will be to rich.

If you block the pump without drilling out plug carb will be to lean.

If you block ap and drill out the plug the carb will be tunable but very VERY fussy. The h/l screws will have to be tuned inconjuction and it is not ready until the carb comes off of WOT to idle without dying. The difference being that the saw will transfer from idle to WOT very nicely all day long in a wide assortment of H/L positions but only hang onto idle from WOT in one.

It can be tuned and make a very nice running carb but if the Zama is hard to tune then a person should pass unless they are really really motivated or perhaps bored.

Hmmm, what causes a carb to not catch idle from WOT? Aside from blocking off the apump and drilling a hole through a plug.

Hey folks at least it is not another oil thread. Although it did spend a good bit of time pretending to be a "what is this worth thread".

Buy the Zama.


I bought the Zama. I also was very displeased with it's performance. The carb that's at the top of my "gonna figure this one out" list is the Zama.

I should have paid more attention in carby school. :laugh:
 
cant we all just get along?
now i want you guys to apologize then kiss and make up!
love you guys!

back to the topic at hand....i bought a 353 that was blown up, had a walbro 199 in it and would like to fix it for a spare.....
 
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