Walbro HD199 Fix

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My goal is not to dis Scott, but to promote a sharing atmosphere. As always though, a few of you love to take things and twist them. That will never change.

For the record...you suck at promotion!

:poke:
 
I believe the affected carbs was the HDA-190, 191, 198 and 199. The 199 was for the unheated EPA saws, and the others for different versions - EPA or not, heated handles or not. All has the same venturi.

Just cleaned up a 191A 621 and put it on the beater 359. The 191A does not have the plastic baffle to reroute the metering cover hole through the air filter. Beyond that it is the same carb. This carb was in fairly good shape beyond the scratch marks and over drilling through the welch plugs.

Runs good, certainly was a low hour carb and the dia's looked like new.

Came back in to add that sometimes Walbro spells Japan differently.

HDA 191A JAPAN
HDA 199A JAPAN
HDA 199A THIA, hmm that's a weird way to spell Japan.
HDA 199A CHINA, at least it has got an A in it once. Must have used up all the J,P and N stamps. The A stamps are the cheap ones, they're made in Ireland.

The little welch on the opposite side of the carb as the brass apump cover is made out of steel. Just puting that correction out there in case it confuses anyone. I replace it with an aluminum one.
 
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I thought it was funny.:hmm3grin2orange:
 
I bought the Zama. I also was very displeased with it's performance. The carb that's at the top of my "gonna figure this one out" list is the Zama.

I should have paid more attention in carby school. :laugh:


I removed the HDA 199 from my new Jred 2156cwh. Replaced it with the Zama and was very disapointed with the way it worked. It's like I have to double pump the trigger to get the saw to spool-up.

Mean while the HDA 199 is working great on my Jred 2153cwh saw.


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be 2 years in june

I'm gonna be building a house from scratch in the next 3-4 years, so I need to learn everything about framing...

My house and barn were both scratch build, including doing the drawings myself. Be 2 years in June, but will be moving in in a couple of weeks. Maybe I'll have time to finish my 272 and do some saw milling soon.

I used trusses, but I know how to do cut rafters and I can build trusses (barn with lumber cut on csm). Saved about half of what it would have cost for a strictly custom house. Good luck on yours and have plenty of patience and perseverance. You'll need it.

Larry

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It's worth mentioning that Walbro HDA replacement kits do not have the vent hole in the diaphragm and gasket. Unless you add one the saw will barley run. I had 2 199's that would start and run at high rpm and but would not idle with the replacement diaphragm. Once I figured out the diaphragm needed the extra hole,the 199's ran perfect. Now there is still the matter of the accel pump etc,but I'm guessing there are numerous 199's tossed because the owners did not notice the issue with the replacement diaphragms. I know the Walbro kits come that way(no vent hole),but I don't know about the Husqvarna kits.

I have one right now in a barely used 359. It starts, not always easy, will run at high RPM's but will not idle. This has the plastic intake boot clamp. Where do I put the extra hole in the diaphragm? I also would not be opposed to sending the whole saw to someone who knows these and pay to have it repaired and possibly tuned, etc.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
hole

diaphragm on left has the venting hole in the upper left hand, under the cover screw hole.
just punch a hole there.
regular diaphragm on the right for comparison.


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