Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - The Drolet Tundra!

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brenndatomu

brenndatomu

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I think this is what Fyrebug meant to link to. http://www.drolet.ca/upload/documents/manuels/45656A_10-06-2013.pdf Read the whole thing, there is a ton of good info in there for any install, not just a Tundra. The parts breakdown is on page 68 if that's what you were looking for.

Also, I think the paper logs are not recommended for the same reasons as the sawdust bricks.
 
mopar969

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I just can't see the paper logs giving the btus like the sawdust bricks. I am thinking that the way the tundra burns the paper bricks might cause a problem for the secondary burn tubes or no?
 
brenndatomu

brenndatomu

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Nah, those secondary tubes will take unbelievable abuse, usually pretty easy to replace if ya ever did smoke em.
Too high temps are more about warping/cracking the firebox or burning up the stovepipe.
If ya throw the bricks or manmade logs in on a good hot bed of coals and leave the air turned up high, that is a good recipe for makin your stove/furnace go nuclear on ya's! :msp_ohmy:
 
mopar969

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Doesn't the main air need to be open to load new logs and start a good fire going? So during a power outage how will the wood be loaded and light if the damper stays closed?
 
laynes69

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Doesn't the main air need to be open to load new logs and start a good fire going? So during a power outage how will the wood be loaded and light if the damper stays closed?

Manual operation. You don't stuff the firebox when there's an outage, you run smaller loads. Loading on a coal bed ensures for quick ignition. Even with the damper closed, the fire still receives a small percentage of air.
 
mopar969

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Okay I don't remember seeing in the manual how to manually control the damper though(without it plugged in)? As long as I can do that is all that matters!
 
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82mkiiltype

82mkiiltype

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I was just reading through the installation manual ... when I found something that completely derails my plans.

http://www.drolet.ca/upload/documents/manuels/45656A_10-06-2013.pdf

Page 49, Figure 7.5.3

Can this furnace not be installed in Canada as an add-on? Parallel configurations are not allowed here... but the Series configuration shown in the figure is exactly how I was told to hook up a Heatmax 1400 by a very picky installer?

Oil furnace first, looped into cold air intake of the wood furnace then out to ductwork with 2" clearances for 7'.

I also noticed that you are only allowed to use 2 of the 8" ducts out of the top. My Brothers Heatmax has the top completely removed and a full plenum installed on top. I'm guessing that the new higher efficiency requires higher temps close to the firebox and therefor a full plenum is a very bad idea?

Thoughts???
 
Fyrebug

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I was just reading through the installation manual ... when I found something that completely derails my plans.

http://www.drolet.ca/upload/documents/manuels/45656A_10-06-2013.pdf

Page 49, Figure 7.5.3

Can this furnace not be installed in Canada as an add-on? Parallel configurations are not allowed here... but the Series configuration shown in the figure is exactly how I was told to hook up a Heatmax 1400 by a very picky installer?

Oil furnace first, looped into cold air intake of the wood furnace then out to ductwork with 2" clearances for 7'.

I also noticed that you are only allowed to use 2 of the 8" ducts out of the top. My Brothers Heatmax has the top completely removed and a full plenum installed on top. I'm guessing that the new higher efficiency requires higher temps close to the firebox and therefor a full plenum is a very bad idea?

Thoughts???

You are right, parallel installation is not allowed in Canada. It's a code thing. For Canada you will have to run separate ductwork from your existing furnace.

I know it's a pain but it has to do with the certification process in Canada (CSA). With the Caddy line you can install them inline with the current furnace.
 
Fyrebug

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The images you posted show a control box for the automated damper yet the image of the product on Northern tools shows a manual damper. Drolet Tundra HeatMax Wood Furnace — 130,000 BTU, EPA-Certified, Model# DF01000 | Wood Stoves| Northern Tool + Equipment

What gives?

The control Box is always included. The damper is on a on/off electric switch. For reason of safety if the power goes off the damper automatically closes.

For about $20 u can buy a t-stat to control the damper.
 
Cloud IT

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The control Box is always included. The damper is on a on/off electric switch. For reason of safety if the power goes off the damper automatically closes.

For about $20 u can buy a t-stat to control the damper.

Did you see the image at the link i posted? If you look closely you can see there is no control box and there is an additional manual lever to open and close the damper.

Is northern tool selling a different furnace or do they have the wrong image displayed?
 
Fyrebug

Fyrebug

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Did you see the image at the link i posted? If you look closely you can see there is no control box and there is an additional manual lever to open and close the damper.

Is northern tool selling a different furnace or do they have the wrong image displayed?

Good eye! They are using an older picture. This is the one they should be using...

View attachment 309234
 
goatguy

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If one was using this furnace with no electricity or no blower assist, would you still need two duct ports or would one suffice?


In this case, you may want to use all 4 outlets. I would think you'll have a greater chance of overfiring without the blower to get rid of the heat, and then only using 1/2 the reccomended outlets will trap even more heat in the unit. The idea of a wood furnace is to get as much heat out of the wood and into your house as possible, restricting the thermosyphoning effects of a "no electricity" situation will really hamper your ability to get the heat out of the furnace.
 
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arrow

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In this case, you may want to use all 4 outlets. I would think you'll have a greater chance of overfiring without the blower to get rid of the heat, and then only using 1/2 the reccomended outlets will trap even more heat in the unit. The idea of a wood furnace is to get as much heat out of the wood and into your house as possible, restricting the thermosyphoning effects of a "no electricity" situation will really hamper your ability to get the heat out of the furnace.

You are probably correct in this assumption. The only differential is if the blower itself somehow makes the flame hotter. Yes I know its not blowing "on the flame" but through the heat exchangers on the furnace. Still I am wondering if there is some residual effect on the flame. Allegedly the Amish use no electricity but I do not know if they do this with the Caddy which has the same fire box as the Tundra.
 

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