I thought i was good at sharpening a chain

[sctstoys72]

I hand file and i have an old neilson grinder but when i go an buy a new stihl full chisel chain it pulls so fast thru the cut,i can never get one this fast.
I'm cutting hard wood most of the time,Oak,running an 026 and a 660,is it a hook angle thing??
The old neilson you can't adjust the hook angle.
Just wish i could duplicate a new chain for speed,i'm getting good chips but like to have that speed and suction thru the wood.

 

[pro94lt]

Keep practicing at some point your new chain won't be as sharp as a hand filed chain

 

[sctstoys72]

Keep practicing at some point your new chain won't be as sharp as a hand filed chain

i got plenty of practice,i need to change method or technique.

 

[RedFir Down]

Post a few pictures of the chain you have sharpened.
When you look at a new chain vs. one you have sharpened can you see much difference?

 

[MustangMike]

I hand file and i have an old neilson grinder but when i go an buy a new stihl full chisel chain it pulls so fast thru the cut,i can never get one this fast.
I'm cutting hard wood most of the time,Oak,running an 026 and a 660,is it a hook angle thing??
The old neilson you can't adjust the hook angle.
Just wish i could duplicate a new chain for speed,i'm getting good chips but like to have that speed and suction thru the wood.

Many people claim to be able to sharpen better than Stihl RS factory, but I have always thought that cut very well, and my hand sharpening just as well.

Two methods I use:

1) If hand filing (free hand), I immobilize the tooth by pinching a paint stirrer vertically against the bar and tooth with one hand and file with the other hand. On RS, the angle S/B 30 degrees, and up about 15 degrees (not level). Try to follow the original angle.

2) I bought a hand held 12 V electrical sharpener that also works well. Do not use the stone that comes with it, they are crap, get a diamond stone (I use 7/32). Got it through Baileys Chainsaw, it is a Garnberg Sharpener and the EZE Lap Diamond stone. This speeds up the sharpening process. I think the sharpener was about 40 and the stones 6.

I have not tried them yet, but many on this site recommend the PFERD files, also available through Baileys.

Work on consistent angles. Good luck.

 

[Mad Professor]

I can keep mine cutting fast until the cutters start to break off.

Do You remember to take down the rakers every few sharpening?

 

[VINIFIREWOOD]

Check raker height and make sure you are removing enuf material on the cutters to remove the dulled edge(no "glint" remaining)

 

[CTYank]

I can keep mine cutting fast until the cutters start to break off.

Do You remember to take down the rakers every few sharpening?

None of my chains have them. (Don't have any scratcher chains.)

Seriously, though, I've found over many years practice that that filing with Granberg guide, one stroke/tooth every other fill-up, results in cutters that stay like razors, and depth-gauges that wear down at such a rate that they almost never need filing.

It helps not to try stone-cutting or using saw as a hacksaw.

 

[w8ye]

By yourself a cheap plastic angle finder at the hardware and see what angles you are filing on your chain?

 

[Grande Dog]

Howdy,
Is that Neilson the K6A? Those were great grinders in their day. I remember making bushings for decades after they quit making the grinders to go from a 1/2" to a 1" arbor so folks could run the Silvey wheels. If you like the way the stock chain performs, blend your stone to mirror the profile of a new tooth.
Regards
Gregg

 

[DanTheCanadian]

I through on a new chain and sharpen, I don't find there sharp enough new. Just been my experience.

 

[sctstoys72]

Howdy,
Is that Neilson the K6A? Those were great grinders in their day. I remember making bushings for decades after they quit making the grinders to go from a 1/2" to a 1" arbor so folks could run the Silvey wheels. If you like the way the stock chain performs, blend your stone to mirror the profile of a new tooth.
Regards
Gregg

it has the sewing machine motor,and all aluminum,and diamond dresser arm. a shop close to me has an old big Neilson i been trying to get.

 

[CR888]

When you go to the saw shop next to buy chain, ask if you can get one cutter and put it in your pocket, don't loose it or let it go through the washing machine because this single new cutter is your reference point for when you are next filing your chain. Stihl RS is a nice performer when it comes to chain and what you want to do is replicate that cutter. Do you understand 'progressive' depth gauge settings. Understand how a cutter actually cuts through wood. Keep your gullets clean. Too much hook is no good, too little is just as bad. Now you want new chain smoothness, speed and a chain that self feeds into the cut. Correct size file is important, top plate angle & side plate angle important too....So now your at home in your workshop ready to file some chains, reach into your pocket & grab that little helper out. He's your new 25cent friend. Sttare at him for a while all along taking little mental notes. You will notice it probably has less hook than you thought. Have a look under the top plate (inside top plat angle) and make note of this angle. This angle is quite important as it will determine two things..how grabby your chain is and how long it will hold its cutting edge. With the correct size file you want 20% of it above the top plate. Read the back of the new chain packet and use the correct factory angles and hold the file either flat (90* from bar or drop it down 10*) Use a 5/32 file to clean the gullets prior to sharpening IF they need it. Cutter length is important as if some cutters are shorter/longer they won't be cutting at all and effect performance/smoothness. Left hand cutters and right hand cutters need to match in length or your bar and chain will want to cut sideways and we're all sick of 'is my bar bent' threads. Remove enough metal so your edge is sharp and complete. Tap your file after filling each cutter to clean file (l use an old toothbrush). You can get file handles with top plate angle guides on them or follow the witness marks on the top plate and side plate for hook but once again your 25cent friend will help you with this. Good luck practice makes perfect and remember your little friend as he is there to help you and keep you company. There is a good PDF book from Carlton that you need to download (about 30 pages). It explains all this better than me. Make sure your chain tension is right to so you don't damage the bottoms of the joining links (forget what there called but they run along the bar) and too loser chain tension can chip/damage your bar tip. Work out what correct chain tension is. And one more thing replicate the depth gauge shape as this is important to. When you think your really good at filing, your only half way there! Lol

 

[Bill Becker]

I have found the Stihl (Pferd) 2 in 1 file guide to be the best out of all the devices I have tried (electric, manual, on the bar, off the bar). They have three sizes (need correct file size and pitch to match the saw). Vermeer/Sherrill has the one for .404 pitch. Depth gauges and cutter teeth get filed at the correct angles and height at the same time. Tool flips over to do both left and right cutters while the chain is on the bar. Files are replaceable. These are on all my trucks and I've labeled them for the different saws. My guys use them daily in the field.
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/filing-tools/2in1file/

 

[moody]

The biggest thing that most people do not do is remember that gullet is as important as angle. Notice the top of the tooth on my hand filing is flat and the gullet isn't too deep or too shallow. The one thing that I will stress is people have a tendency to force files through. Don't do that. Light strokes will allow you to consistently file without bad habits taking over.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[sunfish]

As Moody said "light strokes" also with a high quality 'Sharp' file! Save edge or similar. I will not use Oregon or Stihl files any longer!!!

The Husky roller guide is also very good and simple, has depth gauge too...

 

[LowVolt]

As Moody said "light strokes" also with a high quality 'Sharp' file! Save edge or similar. I will not use Oregon or Stihl files any longer!!!

The Husky roller guide is also very good and simple, has depth gauge too...

What brand of file do you prefer?

 

[moody]

What brand of file do you prefer?

I use mad dog.

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[Philbert]

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chain-filing-height.252582/

Philbert

 

[blades]

Files only cut on the away stroke due not drag it back in the cut as that will dull the files cutting edges.