How would you drop this? What saw?

[Trx250r180]

I would like to hear Randymac's input on "straps and chains "

 

[Gologit]

I would like to hear Randymac's input on "straps and chains "

Yup.

 

[1Alpha1]

I gotta tell ya, this thread has all the right ingredients for a book, if nothing else, even a movie.

Hell, I'd pay $6.00 or so just to see the outcome.

 

[GrassGuerilla]

I gotta tell ya, this thread has all the right ingredients for a book, if nothing else, even a movie.

Hell, I'd pay $6.00 or so just to see the outcome.

Been a while since you've been to the movies eh? $6 won't get a seat, or even a popcorn. Maybe a small soda... Maybe.

 

[1Alpha1]

Been a while since you've been to the movies eh? $6 won't get a seat, or even a popcorn. Maybe a small soda... Maybe.

AARP Senior discount.

 

[2dogs]

You have seen it so have the best idea of how it all looks.
Someone mentioned a pole saw, not so bad an idea. My suggestion - (that lacks an onsite viewing) :-
Clear the rubbish from the ground and cut the bits hanging down from the standing trunk.
I wouldn't even try to cut in the face, it's to dangerous and it'll sit down on the bar/chain in the first few inches.
Having cleared escape routes, use the polesaw to put the back cut in, slowly. Don't let the tip of the cutter bar
point towards the direction of fall, it'll get pinched for sure.
It'll go over in less that 6" of back cut by the look of it.
Watch those long limbs when cutting it up, they might travel and collect you if it rolls.
Be careful !!

(We were typing at the same time wagnerwerk......)

No face cut? Just a backcut with a pole saw? Wow.

 

[blsnelling]

A shallow face and drop that thing with the fastest saw you've got. Try to go for a deeper face cut, and you'll be left with your saw stuck in a very dangerous situation. Watch for it to split and take off running if it does. I'd use either my 372 with 28" bar or 390 with 32" bar. How wide is the back side?

 

[blsnelling]

I think a pole saw is a horrible idea. That distance isn't enough to keep you out of trouble if it chairs. A pole saw will have you in there cutting much longer, greatly enhancing the likeliness of it chairing. Get in there with a real saw and get 'r down!

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

Been a while since you've been to the movies eh? $6 won't get a seat, or even a popcorn. Maybe a small soda... Maybe.

I went to the movies last winter and it was 42 dollars for 2..and 22 of that was popcorn and 2 drink..i about **** myself..that was the last time ill be at the movies

 

[1Alpha1]

I went to the movies last winter and it was 42 dollars for 2..and 22 of that was popcorn and 2 drink..i about **** myself..that was the last time ill be at the movies

We have a local multi-plex. It's been a while since I've been in a theater, but my wife goes with the grand-son and it's pretty reasonable.

At least that's what she tells me...........................opcorn:

 

[Spawn]

There are some reasonable suggestions here. A deep face cut will get you in trouble fast there. Really that tree can be dropped safely in that field even without any face cut with the inside powdery like that. Only one thing from the picture concerns me that would take further assessment is that the tree looks like an elm. A stringy old elm will react differently than most trees and you want to see some dutchman effect in real life, there you go. But I'd drop it with no more than a slight kerf for a notch if any. Work a little on the left then finish on the right with a short bar and light saw. Elm can chair worse than anything I know of, though. You could even take the left side backcut almost thru and bore and pull the right side with a 16" bar. At least I could do it.

 

[redoakman]

thats one ugly tree i brunt the base out of the last tree like that and let it fall on its own

 

[RandyMac]

I would like to hear RandyMac's input on "straps and chains "

Shhhh!
you will scare the little ones

Recognizing one's limitations and walking away is a good thing. Taking advice via the internet from those who haven't actually seen this tree, is not.
The toughest thing I struggled with, was when to walk away, something I often failed to do, this tendency led to some educational experiences and quite a few noisy events.
I approached everything with a high level of self confidence, leavened with just enough self preservation. Once the steel hit the bark, there was no going back, no quitting, regardless
of how deep the hole got.
Go by how you feel when you picture actually falling it, if that lump in your throat feels like you sucked a rock up your anus, walk away.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Shhhh!
you will scare the little ones

Recognizing one's limitations and walking away is a good thing. Taking advice via the internet from those who haven't actually seen this tree, is not.
The toughest thing I struggled with, was when to walk away, something I often failed to do, this tendency led to some educational experiences and quite a few noisy events.
I approached everything with a high level of self confidence, leavened with just enough self preservation. Once the steel hit the bark, there was no going back, no quitting, regardless
of how deep the hole got.
Go by how you feel when you picture actually falling it, if that lump in your throat feels like you sucked a rock up your anus, walk away.

I wanna hear the chain /strap opinion.

 

[HuskStihl]

I lack the expertise of the experts on this board and I wouldn't want to tackle that baby.

But if I did, I'd want a 10mm 044 with a DP muffler and an HD2 filter.

Good start, but without square chisel, filed to factory angles, it prolly won't work

 

[fearofpavement]

I think there are a couple things I would do in this situation. First is that it's pretty apparent which way the tree is going to go. Thus I would start cutting firewood from the part that's already on the ground. From the pics, it doesn't appear there would be any risk working on that side of the tree. That is a lot of wood and would take a long time to harvest.
Next is give time for gravity and weather to test the fortitude of the remaining tree.
Until the wood on the ground is all cleaned up, there's no need to cut down the standing portion.
From the pics, this tree doesn't seem all that intimidating but I would never know what to do without being there in person. I've seen tree services advertise that they can give a quote if you send them some pics. Really? I only quote trees I have looked at in person. So many times there are things that weren't apparent at first and they can greatly influence the approach and outcome.
My recommendation to the OP is clean up what's down and you likely won't have to cut the rest. It's very weighted... A couple gusts of wind from the right direction and voila!

 

[fearofpavement]

OP, where is this tree located? I assume eastern MI due to lack of snow?

 

[GrassGuerilla]

Yeah, I have to admit. It doesn't really look likely to stay standing through another Michigan winter. Good ice storm should finish it off.

So to answer the OP. No saw. Let it fall on its own.

 

[Red97]

A shallow face and drop that thing with the fastest saw you've got. Try to go for a deeper face cut, and you'll be left with your saw stuck in a very dangerous situation. Watch for it to split and take off running if it does. I'd use either my 372 with 28" bar or 390 with 32" bar. How wide is the back side?

Measured at 56" across the back.

 

[lone wolf]

FearOfPavement,

That tree failed because it had included bark and it does not look like it was healthy from the looks of the tear. I'm not so sure it's a good idea to be spending days working under it.

From another angle:
Fell the standing part first, that way if you get killed you don't have to cut up the rest.

Nice post !