How would you drop this? What saw?

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It is a hard wood. Some type of oak I believe. Very straight grain splits easy.
 
It is a hard wood. Some type of oak I believe. Very straight grain splits easy.
The bark of that tree looks a bit like cottonwood with the deep furrows. Also, the wood doesn't really look like oak. I'm not saying it isn't an oak, just saying it doesn't look like an oak to me from what pics you've posted.
 
shallow face cut and move perpendicular to the tree when it goes. Clean a path for your exit and when it pop's, get! Holding wood is holding wood, once its gone it should come down, watch the upper portion of the tree for movement and get out of there when it starts to go. If I was closer, we'd have a coffee and drop that thing!

Looks like a Cottonwood.
 
It might not be oak but it is some type of hard wood, kind of a pale red center on the limbs I cut.
 
ok, in the new pic it looks like a shell to me........you should leave it alone, i don't think it will stand thru the winter. pull the other pieces away and work them up.

as far as what i would now that i know its a shell...............i hate to say it but prolly Randy's favorite saying...........if it was in the woods i was working i prolly would just slash it and let it bust, wouldn't take much. but thats me, no big deal to me but i been around stuff like that all my life.
 
here are some pics of the wood split it is medium dense, throws a small chip.









I am not sure what it is but would love to know.
 
Doesn't look like cottonwood, if it was I wouldn't take the time to piss on it!!!


Not sure what the best way for you to drop it is, but be careful and walk away if you aren't sure what to do.

Walk away and live another day.

What is biggest, fastest saw you have available???
 
Doesn't look like cottonwood, if it was I wouldn't take the time to piss on it!!!


Not sure what the best way for you to drop it is, but be careful and walk away if you aren't sure what to do.

Walk away and live another day.

What is biggest, fastest saw you have available???

super 1020 100cc 60" bar its big but not fast. lol I just want to buck up the big stuff.
 
There are some reasonable suggestions here. A deep face cut will get you in trouble fast there. Really that tree can be dropped safely in that field even without any face cut with the inside powdery like that. Only one thing from the picture concerns me that would take further assessment is that the tree looks like an elm. A stringy old elm will react differently than most trees and you want to see some dutchman effect in real life, there you go. But I'd drop it with no more than a slight kerf for a notch if any. Work a little on the left then finish on the right with a short bar and light saw. Elm can chair worse than anything I know of, though. You could even take the left side backcut almost thru and bore and pull the right side with a 16" bar. At least I could do it.

Kerf face on any tree is how people get killed, especially a hard leaner, and anything over 4"

Any way I'd dump it, shallow open face (birds mouth, or super steep humboldt) then bore and leave a strap on both sides with off side being extra thin, so when the near side gets cut it should tear loose the other side, if it don't take the long way around then nip and run, as far as the down stuff pull out of the way or just remove enough for and escape path, no sense putzing around under it.
 
I'll stand by the polesaw (haven't seen the tree personally though) - this is one loaded up tree just waiting to fall over with the head weight,
bit of a nibble and it'll go.
Why be the fraction of a cutter bar from the stump when you can be 2.5m+ from it ?
Its going to take bgr all to fall over. the further you are from the chairing the better.
Said 6" backcut, well that's being generous, most likely less.
 
Kerf face on any tree is how people get killed, especially a hard leaner, and anything over 4"

Any way I'd dump it, shallow open face (birds mouth, or super steep humboldt) then bore and leave a strap on both sides with off side being extra thin, so when the near side gets cut it should tear loose the other side, if it don't take the long way around then nip and run, as far as the down stuff pull out of the way or just remove enough for and escape path, no sense putzing around under it.


It sounds like you can provide plural examples of people getting killed using a kerf to face a hard leaning broad tree. How about a nice juicy link to one of them? People frequently die by venturing just a bit above their pay grade so don't get real sentimental. I'm wondering about your experience with large hardwoods especially hard leaners with multiple co-dominant stems. Did you notice there was no fiber left in the center of the tree? I'd bore cut it too after back cutting the left side straight in. I'd bore cut the right side and pull away from the "face" side. There's no purpose or time to mess around on the field side of that tree. The tree is committed to that side. You can put a humbolt in it so you can do things the same as you always do or approach it with the logic fallers employ on a hazard leaner in a flat open space. A shallow kerf in the front will keep it from chairing though if you understand what triggers that much force, and your saw runs right, consider it done with the lightest saw available and no more than a 16" bar. Don't sweat it we're back East lol.

Once a landowner has identified a hazard tree, it is his responsibility to get it down. People, animals and equipment are at stake. Suggestions to wait it out and let winter do it are beer-fueled and myopic. I think I would just push it over with my D-65.
 

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