How would you drop this? What saw?

[olyman]

That one scares me.

buwhahahhhahahhahaa!!!!!!!!!

 

[olyman]

Aerial lift and cut it up in lots of pieces.

no! no! and NO! after all,,del the great,,said is SCARES him!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Red97]

if you bore in ,should not pinch it,will have holding wood top and bottom to keep from pinching ,a couple of felling wedges if you are worried about pinching will keep the space in there too ,the root ball is likely going to flop back over so high stump it a little ,and cut the rounds off after it is upright if want the firewood

What kind of bar and saw do you have to work with ? 70cc or bigger ?

100 cc 40" and 60" .404 skip. It is just for firewood

 

[Marshy]

ok now that we have that figure out. Next scenario, how would you cut this tree from the root ball?



the smallest diameter is 64" and the root ball is holding the tree off the ground 2 ft all the way to the 82" crotch. This is another hard wood.

is an undercut the only way to do it? have quite a few large trees like this at another location but all are off the ground because of the root ball.

I do not think a pole saw has a chance on these.

Thank you

Seriously, a pole saw!? Your going to need a 30" bar at least to detach that root ball. Just using an under cut is a sure way to get your bar pinched. I say that because the root ball looks like it would fall towards the top the the tree and not back to the ground that it rooted from. Might want to consider a deep open face cut on the top then cut top down through the open face. It all depends I you think the root is going to fall back into its root hole or towards the top...

 

[Trx250r180]

Please elaborate. What exactly is a bore cut?

here is a bad demo vid ,hope it gives an idea ,top got cut out of the recording ,there was about 3-4 inches of holding wood on top ,that keeps you from pinching ,so a bore is actually stabbing the tip of the bar into the log ,it is best to practice this first before that tree

 

[7sleeper]

Is quite a dangerous situation. Every year people get seriously hurt or die because the root ball fall's onto the person doing the cut. Personally I would secure the root ball with a come along or similar so that it fall's into the right direction. Further you have to use the right cutting technique. This would be one of the techniques(from the husqvarna homepage).

Another technique would be if you have access to a tractor you do this technique. The idea is step a) & b) so that you can do the d) cut about 15-20cm/~6-8 inches distal from the root ball and from your original cut and bore cut. After that you hook up a tractor to the root ball and pull the root ball over. That way no one is in the danger zone.

7

 

[Trx250r180]

Is quite a dangerous situation. Every year people get seriously hurt because the root ball fall's onto the person doing the cut. Personally I would secure the root ball with a come along or similar so that it fall's into the right direction. Further you have to use the right cutting technique. This would be one of the techniques(from the husqvarna homepage).

Another technique would be if you have access to a tractor you do this technique. The idea is step a) & b) so that you can do the d) cut about 15-20cm/~6-8 inches distal from the root ball and from your original cut and bore cut. After that you hook up a tractor to the root ball and pull the root ball over. That way no one is in the danger zone.

7

Good illustrations of a bore cut

 

[Wagnerwerks]

I'm looking forward to trying the black powder log splitting soon. Should be a good time.

 

[2dogs]

It sounds like you can provide plural examples of people getting killed using a kerf to face a hard leaning broad tree. How about a nice juicy link to one of them? People frequently die by venturing just a bit above their pay grade so don't get real sentimental. I'm wondering about your experience with large hardwoods especially hard leaners with multiple co-dominant stems. Did you notice there was no fiber left in the center of the tree? I'd bore cut it too after back cutting the left side straight in. I'd bore cut the right side and pull away from the "face" side. There's no purpose or time to mess around on the field side of that tree. The tree is committed to that side. You can put a humbolt in it so you can do things the same as you always do or approach it with the logic fallers employ on a hazard leaner in a flat open space. A shallow kerf in the front will keep it from chairing though if you understand what triggers that much force, and your saw runs right, consider it done with the lightest saw available and no more than a 16" bar. Don't sweat it we're back East lol.

Once a landowner has identified a hazard tree, it is his responsibility to get it down. People, animals and equipment are at stake. Suggestions to wait it out and let winter do it are beer-fueled and myopic. I think I would just push it over with my D-65.

Whoop whoop whoop. BS alarm sounding!

 

[2dogs]

ok now that we have that figure out. Next scenario, how would you cut this tree from the root ball?



the smallest diameter is 64" and the root ball is holding the tree off the ground 2 ft all the way to the 82" crotch. This is another hard wood.

is an undercut the only way to do it? have quite a few large trees like this at another location but all are off the ground because of the root ball.

I do not think a pole saw has a chance on these.

Thank you

Straight down from the top, ream, out the bottom.
I would of course have to work both sides.


Or a polesaw.

 

[Red97]

Seriously, a pole saw!? Your going to need a 30" bar at least to detach that root ball. Just using an under cut is a sure way to get your bar pinched. I say that because the root ball looks like it would fall towards the top the the tree and not back to the ground that it rooted from. Might want to consider a deep open face cut on the top then cut top down through the open face. It all depends I you think the root is going to fall back into its root hole or towards the top...

The root ball will fall towards the tree, The tree was placed here by excavator a couple years ago. Their are about 6 trees like this 3-6ft diameter 20-50 ft long that all have the root ball still attached.

 

[Red97]

Is quite a dangerous situation. Every year people get seriously hurt or die because the root ball fall's onto the person doing the cut. Personally I would secure the root ball with a come along or similar so that it fall's into the right direction. Further you have to use the right cutting technique. This would be one of the techniques(from the husqvarna homepage).

Another technique would be if you have access to a tractor you do this technique. The idea is step a) & b) so that you can do the d) cut about 15-20cm/~6-8 inches distal from the root ball and from your original cut and bore cut. After that you hook up a tractor to the root ball and pull the root ball over. That way no one is in the danger zone.

7

So leave a peg in the middle and try to break the root ball free with the tractor?

Thank you

 

[northmanlogging]

cut the off side, cut the top till she starts to close, and just till she starts to close, then undercut till shes through. If your worried about fiber pull you can cut the front side leaving a post in the middle, before finishing with the undercut.

Don't like the looks of that root ball though, most wads have more stuff hanging off the bottom side and will stand up when cut, that one looks like it will flop over on top of the cutter, in that case run some cable over the top of the wad and choke the stem, tie the cable off to something heavy, like a large tractor with a working brake or maybe some other stump.

Or get a wedge cut top down only once there is room for the wedge set it tight and continue on through.

 

[BeatCJ]

I bet you have a pretty good sized tractor around? I would think about supporting the trunk about 6 feet from the "top" of the rootwad, and take your log off. Use the tractor to stand the root wad back up, then take off the next couple of rounds. If you need to take those off. Obviously, you aren't going to use them for sawlogs after a couple of years, and dealing with a 48" long chunk on the stump "shouldn't" reach out and bite you.

 

[7sleeper]

So leave a peg in the middle and try to break the root ball free with the tractor?

Thank you

Exactly! But you cut the peg about 6-8 inches distal to the root ball(= to the "top" of the tree = away from the root ball). That way it is still stable and can be pulled apart with a tractor. The tractor is only used to pull the root ball up right. Not "ripping" the pieces apart. Further cutting a little notch so that the cable or chain cannot slip out is never a mistake.

Your welcome.

7

 

[jughead500]

What kind of loader do you have? May lift 2000lbs but if it can put 2000lbs of pressure pulling on a chain you can get the root ball down with no problem.
What i see with the pictures of your posts are no big problem to me.on stuff like this on my end of the country is having to factor in hill sides.us hillbillies dont have flat ground to work on.lol

 

[Red97]

cut the off side, cut the top till she starts to close, and just till she starts to close, then undercut till shes through. If your worried about fiber pull you can cut the front side leaving a post in the middle, before finishing with the undercut.

Don't like the looks of that root ball though, most wads have more stuff hanging off the bottom side and will stand up when cut, that one looks like it will flop over on top of the cutter, in that case run some cable over the top of the wad and choke the stem, tie the cable off to something heavy, like a large tractor with a working brake or maybe some other stump.

Or get a wedge cut top down only once there is room for the wedge set it tight and continue on through.

The tree was dug out with a large track hoe, ripped all the roots free then pushed over hence not much of a root wad. It is pretty much flat to the bottom of the trunk.

So your saying for a standard bucking top cut run a chain over the root wad and to the trunk, put pressure on the wad as if trying to stand the tree back up. Cut from the top down until I can get a wedge in, then put more pressure on the chain and finish the cut all the way through? The root should stay off the ground or tip up while the log drops correct?

thank you for the help

 

[Red97]

What kind of loader do you have? May lift 2000lbs but if it can put 2000lbs of pressure pulling on a chain you can get the root ball down with no problem.
What i see with the pictures of your posts are no big problem to me.on stuff like this on my end of the country is having to factor in hill sides.us hillbillies dont have flat ground to work on.lol

50 hp 4wd probably 7000lbs my problem is this is my first time cutting firewood like this. never anything this big. last time I cut stuff like this is when the big equipment was here clearing the fence rows and could lift the stuff no problem, didn't have to worry about a pinched bar. Now if the bar gets pinched I have now way to lift the tree.

This is only my 2nd season cutting firewood. last year all the smaller logs were cut into 10-14 ft lengths so I was just bucking fire wood all last season. now that I have a saw large enough to cut these up I can have all I want.

Sorry if I come across as ignorant I am just trying to learn, and how to do things safely I just find it hard to turn down 6-8 trees like this.
I just need to figure out the best way to get them off of the root wads

thank you all for the help so far.

 

[treeslayer2003]

Red, go ahead and start at the top and work your way back toward the root ball using wedges to keep from pinching the bar. when you get close enough to the wad to be uncomfortable, i bet your little tractor can then move it around a bit.

this is the easy and safe way for you to do it.

 

[Red97]

Red, go ahead and start at the top and work your way back toward the root ball using wedges to keep from pinching the bar. when you get close enough to the wad to be uncomfortable, i bet your little tractor can then move it around a bit.

this is the easy and safe way for you to do it.

It is hard to tell in the pic but the wad is holding the tree off the ground all the way to the crotch. That is why I was thinking of how to get the root off to get the log on the ground then I can buck it like normal.

kind of stuck between a rock and a hard place right now.