How would you drop this? What saw?

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Here's the holistic approach. You said this was along a creek? (Pronounced crick in these parts). Being of the forester persuasion, I'd leave it. It is in a riparian area and needed to shade the creek. In fact, you should be planting trees and brush along that creek to restore it. Not having shade above it raises water temps and kills fish.
So leave it, flag around it to warn folks, and plant shrubs and trees along the creek. When it falls, leave it. I see a dearth of down woody debris in that area. You need some slash and debris to keep the soils in good shape for the future forests.

Neat and tidy isn't a good thing when it comes to forests.
 
It sounds like you can provide plural examples of people getting killed using a kerf to face a hard leaning broad tree. How about a nice juicy link to one of them? People frequently die by venturing just a bit above their pay grade so don't get real sentimental. I'm wondering about your experience with large hardwoods especially hard leaners with multiple co-dominant stems. Did you notice there was no fiber left in the center of the tree? I'd bore cut it too after back cutting the left side straight in. I'd bore cut the right side and pull away from the "face" side. There's no purpose or time to mess around on the field side of that tree. The tree is committed to that side. You can put a humbolt in it so you can do things the same as you always do or approach it with the logic fallers employ on a hazard leaner in a flat open space. A shallow kerf in the front will keep it from chairing though if you understand what triggers that much force, and your saw runs right, consider it done with the lightest saw available and no more than a 16" bar. Don't sweat it we're back East lol.

Once a landowner has identified a hazard tree, it is his responsibility to get it down. People, animals and equipment are at stake. Suggestions to wait it out and let winter do it are beer-fueled and myopic. I think I would just push it over with my D-65.

You want to fall a large, leaning, heavily weighted hardwood that is split down the centre without using any face cut at all - no matter how small? Is that what you just said?
 
Here's the holistic approach. You said this was along a creek? (Pronounced crick in these parts). Being of the forester persuasion, I'd leave it. It is in a riparian area and needed to shade the creek. In fact, you should be planting trees and brush along that creek to restore it. Not having shade above it raises water temps and kills fish.
So leave it, flag around it to warn folks, and plant shrubs and trees along the creek. When it falls, leave it. I see a dearth of down woody debris in that area. You need some slash and debris to keep the soils in good shape for the future forests.

Neat and tidy isn't a good thing when it comes to forests.

It is in the middle of a 100 acre field. The creek is more of a drain the county cleared it out 2 years ago while they were their my uncle paid to have his side done too. This tree is about 300 yards from the creek. Nobody is anywhere near this tree, just an open field. I do understand what you are getting at in that situation. Thank you.

This tree is either going to fall on its own or get pushed over before it is time to plant the field.

I was just curious how the pros would drop it.
 
Because I'm a lazy fat guy, I'd walk a Cat 320 with a thumb out there, clean up the mess around it. Push it over. Buck it up and use the 320 to load it. Yes, the rental will seem steep, but even $2000 won't buy you a 1/2 hour in the E.R.
 
It sounds like you can provide plural examples of people getting killed using a kerf to face a hard leaning broad tree. How about a nice juicy link to one of them? People frequently die by venturing just a bit above their pay grade so don't get real sentimental. I'm wondering about your experience with large hardwoods especially hard leaners with multiple co-dominant stems. Did you notice there was no fiber left in the center of the tree? I'd bore cut it too after back cutting the left side straight in. I'd bore cut the right side and pull away from the "face" side. There's no purpose or time to mess around on the field side of that tree. The tree is committed to that side. You can put a humbolt in it so you can do things the same as you always do or approach it with the logic fallers employ on a hazard leaner in a flat open space. A shallow kerf in the front will keep it from chairing though if you understand what triggers that much force, and your saw runs right, consider it done with the lightest saw available and no more than a 16" bar. Don't sweat it we're back East lol.

Once a landowner has identified a hazard tree, it is his responsibility to get it down. People, animals and equipment are at stake. Suggestions to wait it out and let winter do it are beer-fueled and myopic. I think I would just push it over with my D-65.

What is a 16 inch bar ?
 
ok now that we have that figure out. Next scenario, how would you cut this tree from the root ball?



the smallest diameter is 64" and the root ball is holding the tree off the ground 2 ft all the way to the 82" crotch. This is another hard wood.

is an undercut the only way to do it? have quite a few large trees like this at another location but all are off the ground because of the root ball.

I do not think a pole saw has a chance on these.

Thank you
 
Since it is off the ground I would block it up at intervals with short logs. This will keep it off the ground and allow you to cut from top and bottom. Probably best to start at the top so it won't roll as you remove branches.

No branches on this one, about 25ft from firs cut off the root ball to the top of the crotch. I do not have acess to anything big enough to pick or roll it, my loader will lift 2000lbs max . That is why nobody has messed with it. I don't want to pinch the bar.
 
No branches on this one, about 25ft from firs cut off the root ball to the top of the crotch. I do not have acess to anything big enough to pick or roll it, my loader will lift 2000lbs max . That is why nobody has messed with it. I don't want to pinch the bar.
if you bore in ,should not pinch it,will have holding wood top and bottom to keep from pinching ,a couple of felling wedges if you are worried about pinching will keep the space in there too ,the root ball is likely going to flop back over so high stump it a little ,and cut the rounds off after it is upright if want the firewood

What kind of bar and saw do you have to work with ? 70cc or bigger ?
 

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