661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?

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We are never going to find the best oil are we ?
You really didn't expect to, did ya??

It took me 4 days to read all the way through this thread... and not one single thing in this thread has convinced me I should change anything... not the oil brand, not the mix ratio, and not the octane rating of the fuel I mix it with. I stickin' with the idea... if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

We (dad and I) use this non-synthetic dino stuff...

00000394917c103.jpg

We mix it 50:1 with 91 octane e-free gasoline... we use it in all the small two-cycle engines here (around a dozen I'd guess)... none of them have ever broken or even showed signs of oil starvation... we've used it for as long as it's been available... before that we used the 40:1 stuff of the same brand (they changed it to 50:1 in the late 90s??)... the spark plug in my saw was 20 years old when I replaced it on principle (still looks good so I kept it for a spare)... up north at the lake home dad uses the 50:1 pre-mix right from the pump at the bait shop/gas station in everything two-cycle small or large... I'm thinkin' it don't need to be the "best" oil, it only needs to be good enough.

But hey... what do i know??
*
 
You really didn't expect to, did ya??

It took me 4 days to read all the way through this thread... and not one single thing in this thread has convinced me I should change anything... not the oil brand, not the mix ratio, and not the octane rating of the fuel I mix it with. I stickin' with the idea... if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

We (dad and I) use this non-synthetic dino stuff...

00000394917c103.jpg

We mix it 50:1 with 91 octane e-free gasoline... we use it in all the small two-cycle engines here (around a dozen I'd guess)... none of them have ever broken or even showed signs of oil starvation... we've used it for as long as it's been available... before that we used the 40:1 stuff of the same brand (they changed it to 50:1 in the late 90s??)... the spark plug in my saw was 20 years old when I replaced it on principle (still looks good so I kept it for a spare)... up north at the lake home dad uses the 50:1 pre-mix right from the pump at the bait shop/gas station in everything two-cycle small or large... I'm thinkin' it don't need to be the "best" oil, it only needs to be good enough.

But hey... what do i know??
*
Keep hangin' out with all the chainsaw freaks at them GTG and you'll be looking for the latest and greatest whiz bang oil too. I noticed you're already "looking" at new saws since the GTG[emoji1]
 
So the Manufacturers of Husqvarna and Stihl know nothing.

They make the saws we all enjoy using but their oils are crap. Can't use them even though they will double a warranty if you buy a six pack that only makes 6 gallons of fuel. What are they thinking? With their crap oils in 6 gallons the saws will blow up and they will have warranty claims until 2020. Right?

So motorcycle oils are the only oils we should use and the engineers and all their education and experience means nothing. I'm not buying it. I have some very expensive saws and willing to try OE oils to see what happens. Let you all know when the first one blows sky high running their junk oils at 50:1.

Anyone can run an oil at 32:1 and be safe. If you think your oils are so strong run them at 50:1. It is one of their suggested mix ratios after all.

Stay tuned.....
 
Or peanut butter..
I don't want thick oil, i just couldn't figure out why you think Lucas is too thin but Yamalube isn't. I'm sure i will indeed like Yamalube....but i also like Lucas and Super M. The price is within $1 on all 3 oils so money isn't gonna be the deciding factor.
 
So the $ is the deal breaker? But don't you have to factor in that you are using more oil at 32:1 vs. 50:1 so the yield isn't as much as you thought it would be? With my discount Ultra for example is mid $50s I believe and makes 50 gallons. So take a $40 gallon and mix at 32:1 what do you have price wise on yield? How many gallons come out of a 32:1 ratio from a gallon? Way less than 50 that's for sure.

I just think this is way overthinking and most of all trying to outsmart the Manufacturers. How many of you question their engineering and replace all the important OE parts in a saw because the same corporation that makes their oils make the saws and since they don't know what they are doing with lubricants they surely don't know what they heck they are doing with the internal parts. Right? It just gets silly when you think about it. I'm included mixing this and mixing that trying to beat the OE product. We are learning that a viscosity close to the OE appears to be important or Lucas or 710 wouldn't be considered.

What about the Husky lovers out there? I own quite a few of those too. Is their HP oil junk as well? How many blown saws come in from running HP at 50:1? Just curious.

What about mixing the OE oils richer than recommended like everyone does the motorcycle oils? What would be wrong with that? Husky HP oil per gallon is in the low $40s for me. Cheap enough. And yet they will slap a 4 year warranty on their saws using this junk oil. Amazing is all I can say.

My ported saws are faster with a leaner ratio than 32:1 that's for sure.
 
So the Manufacturers of Husqvarna and Stihl know nothing.

They make the saws we all enjoy using but their oils are crap. Can't use them even though they will double a warranty if you buy a six pack that only makes 6 gallons of fuel. What are they thinking? With their crap oils in 6 gallons the saws will blow up and they will have warranty claims until 2020. Right?

So motorcycle oils are the only oils we should use and the engineers and all their education and experience means nothing. I'm not buying it. I have some very expensive saws and willing to try OE oils to see what happens. Let you all know when the first one blows sky high running their junk oils at 50:1.

Anyone can run an oil at 32:1 and be safe. If you think your oils are so strong run them at 50:1. It is one of their suggested mix ratios after all.

Stay tuned.....
On a stock saw the stock oil is fine 50 to 1 ,i think we have agreed on ,but...........the hopped up saws seem to not last as long at 50 to 1 due to the extra force on bearings from higher compression ,and more heat build up ,so a need for a better oil is needed to make them last long ............Am i on the right track here ??? It is just there is no one right answer which one will work on your saw with your particular mods to be perfect ,because what works best on one ,may not be best for another .So here we are .

The End
 
If ultra never gave me a headache I'd probably never switched. The headache that last for 4 hours after using 2 gallons in a couple hours was horrible.

Coming from this guy and his milling operation that says a lot to me. Sorry about the headache. It don't bother me at all. Actually nothing bothers me but the smell of Royal Purple smells like a skunk without VP Fuel.
 
On a stock saw the stock oil is fine 50 to 1 ,i think we have agreed on ,but...........the hopped up saws seem to not last as long at 50 to 1 due to the extra force on bearings from higher compression ,and more heat build up ,so a need for a better oil is needed to make them last long ............Am i on the right track here ??? It is just there is no one right answer which one will work on your saw with your particular mods to be perfect ,because what works best on one ,may not be best for another .So here we are .

The End

TRX, what about just richening up the OE oils? Anyone ever tried that?
 
How much is a 6 pack of 2.6oz bottles (15.6 total) of Ultra? The pint (16oz.) of Yamalube i bought today was $6.99 and the liter (33.xoz.) of Super M was $11.99, A quart of Lucas is $9.99.
 
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