KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
Would pouring them through a coffee filter tell how viscous the mix is? like say H1-R and Yamalube @ 32:1 and watch the rate it goes through the filter. Idk just thinkin'
661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?
- Thread starter redbull660
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porsche965
Addicted to ArboristSite
That would take some time.
Been running 32:1 H1R in canned 92-94 octane ever since I bought my first saw. As I prep for my cutting season, I am going to try H1R at 40:1 and new to me Maxima K2 @ 32:1 and 40:1 with VP C10. Will report my opinion in a few months. I will be lucky to burn all 5 gallons this season so I am a pretty low hour user.
Just out of curiosity and to take a look before changing oil, I pulled the plug and muffler cover off my ported MS460 (I am the original owner so its only seen 32:1 H1R).
Just out of curiosity and to take a look before changing oil, I pulled the plug and muffler cover off my ported MS460 (I am the original owner so its only seen 32:1 H1R).
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
I really like K2 but its expensive
I'm running K2 in VP gas for the 550xp. My dad keeps it and might use 1 gallon a year of mix in it besides when he goes cutting with me. It does seem to run better with less oil.
I've er placed several cranks in huskies run on 50:1 with oem oils including stihl ultra. I wouldn't trust it for a 372 or 390 at anything less than 40:1. Heck in Australia they specify 25:1 for the 3120.
I've er placed several cranks in huskies run on 50:1 with oem oils including stihl ultra. I wouldn't trust it for a 372 or 390 at anything less than 40:1. Heck in Australia they specify 25:1 for the 3120.
A 6-pack of the Stihl "orange" bottle (2½ gallon mix at 50:1) is well under $15 here (don't remember exactly)... that's 15 gallons of fuel, less than an added dollar per gallon. But ya' are paying a premium for the packaging when buyin' the small bottles... it-is-what-it-is. The stuff can be had in quarts, gallons and pails also... making the cost less. Of course, mixin' it 32:1 is gonna' bump the cost... but that's another thing... and another argument.
If a fella is burning 10 gallons of fuel a day I can see where the cost of oil would be a top consideration... but at even 10 gallons a month?? Seriously, how many here burn even 10 gallons a month, every month of the year?? 120 gallons a year?? And where I really shake my head is the guy who'll pay the premium for aviation or race fuel... and then worry about the relatively tiny added cost of oil... really?? I don't buy the fact that "cost" is the driving factor for most guys here... it don't make sense.
Personally, I'll pay the premium for the small bottles. I open it, dump it in the 2½ gallon can, toss it, and fill the can with gasoline... no fuss, no muss, no measuring, done. Heck, I don't even bother to "rinse" the little oil jug, or even get the last dribble out... I just dump and toss.
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If a fella is burning 10 gallons of fuel a day I can see where the cost of oil would be a top consideration... but at even 10 gallons a month?? Seriously, how many here burn even 10 gallons a month, every month of the year?? 120 gallons a year?? And where I really shake my head is the guy who'll pay the premium for aviation or race fuel... and then worry about the relatively tiny added cost of oil... really?? I don't buy the fact that "cost" is the driving factor for most guys here... it don't make sense.
Personally, I'll pay the premium for the small bottles. I open it, dump it in the 2½ gallon can, toss it, and fill the can with gasoline... no fuss, no muss, no measuring, done. Heck, I don't even bother to "rinse" the little oil jug, or even get the last dribble out... I just dump and toss.
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Ron660
Addicted to ArboristSite
I know a Logger, just retired at 62, that used over 25 gallons of fuel a month. He mixed Stihl HP Ultra at 50:1 in the winter and 40:1 in the summer. His last saw, stock 461, lasted only 5 months on HP ultra at 50:1 before a low-end bearing failed. The Dealer didn't say if the failure was oil related they just gave him a new one.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
If someone runs a saw I ported on 50:1 and it fails........I will not be responsible for it in any way.
2.56 OZ of oil per gallon is just not enough oil in a ported saw. The jug and piston will likely survive.......but the crankshaft will fail early.
2.56 OZ of oil per gallon is just not enough oil in a ported saw. The jug and piston will likely survive.......but the crankshaft will fail early.
porsche965
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's one way to get a new saw!
porsche965
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't see why any builder should warranty a ported saw. If you don't have your Big Boy pants on don't come out to play.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I've never shied away from doing whatever it took to make something "right". Even if I knew it was nothing I did.......
I'm planning on doing this saw thing for as long as I can. Compared to framing houses.....it's a pretty good gig. I'll gladly go over and above to end up with a happy customer.
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
Sometimes you just gotta take a deep breath, count to potato, and make it right.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Anyone that has spent their life being self employed understands how it works.
Or you could look up the viscosity on the msds sheet..
Pud
ArboristSite Operative
They also tell u anything over 70cc has to be 33:1 also and for ethanol or poor quality fuel to use the hp oil not xp .
Funny about more oil producing more heat with a temp gun all the karri fallers over hear swear that in summer if u dont run 3120's at 25:1 they get vapor lock and u have to refuel them while there still running cant turn them off ect..
Oil prices are the opposite hear also 1 litre of xp / ls+ costs me $13 and i actually bought some H1r a couple of weeks ago and it cost me $45 for a litre
Pud
ArboristSite Operative
Just out of curiousity does anyone use moterex oil at all ? Its pretty much the only oil In the mx scene hear , KTM make there dealers stock it and advertise it pretty hard
First I'll disqualify my self in sayin' I don't have, and never have had, a ported saw.
But truthfully, the few crank failures I've seen in two-cycle engines were all running ethanol blend fuel.
I have my own (admittedly bias) opinion of why that is... but this ain't an ethanol thread, it's an oil thread. At the same time, oil is mixed with the fuel so I'll just say I find it difficult to expect optimal results after introducing a moisture drawing, powerful solvent into an engine that relies on residual oil for lubrication. In fact... I can see no reason not to expect the worst.
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The temp increases were very small and could be caused by many different things so let's not jump to conclusions.They also tell u anything over 70cc has to be 33:1 also and for ethanol or poor quality fuel to use the hp oil not xp .
Funny about more oil producing more heat with a temp gun all the karri fallers over hear swear that in summer if u dont run 3120's at 25:1 they get vapor lock and u have to refuel them while there still running cant turn them off ect..
Oil prices are the opposite hear also 1 litre of xp / ls+ costs me $13 and i actually bought some H1r a couple of weeks ago and it cost me $45 for a litre
Gasoline is a pretty strong solvent too.. The issue with ethanol relates to the fact it attracts water,doesn't stay mixed very well and inhibits combustion in two cycles.
It's very foolish to run anything but premium non ethanol fuel in a two stroke.
