getting them clean

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mkinslow

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May not be in the right area for this but what do you guys use when y'all really deep clean your saws. Like during complete tear down.
 
For a deep clean I recomend a deep undercut.

IDK..gas in a sprayer eats through it.
Scrape at the thick and repeat.
Finish it out with the air and pump spray at the same time. Leave parts and covers in solvent tank is easiest.
 
Be careful with solvents, they could fade or discolor your plastics. I usually use an air hose and gas And a paint brush. And something to dig out the thick gunk.
 
Purple Power and a tooth brush in an old bin I use for a parts washer.
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Simple Green is good too.
 
The magic solvent is 'Gunwash'.. used to clean automotive paint guns, available in 5 gallon cans.. get yourself a chinese paint gun and use it to clean your parts... the constant air flow is usually enough to remove most stuff, and you can inject small amounts of solvent which will erode the goop. a 5 gallon can lasts me more than a year, and I take a lot of stuff apart! (doesn't always get put back together). It can eat some plastics, haven't found any of those on chainsaws yet, but it will demolish calculator keys and some clear plastics. this system works WONDERS on carbs, dissolves varnish quickly.

I used to use brake cleaner, but found a can wouldn't last at all, most of it wasted... this stuff is every bit as strong and goes further.
 
Really should have thought of that myself. Ivgot a ffamily member who is a car painter and body man. And yea that stuff is pretty stout. Thanks for the info guys
 
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@stevetheboatguy tipped me off to this stuff. I use it sprayed on at 1:1 with water on saw covers, and cases, and it does an admirable job without harm to the plastics, or paint. For really baked on pitch, I have used it straight with good results.

I know Purple Power works well too, but you have to be careful with soak times, and exposing it to aluminum, as the alkalinity can pit aluminum, and eventually strip paint. Not to mention color fading.
 
I should mention that you really shouldn't soak anything other than bare metal in gunwash.. and on unknown plastics test it in an inconspicuous area first.. a dab on a towel, and then rub a little.. if it's sensitive to it you'll know real quick.

and yes, purple power EATS aluminum and magnesium if you don't wash it off well.. you can soak for a while with no problems, just be sure to rinse well. Haven't had experience with it on paints though.
 
I don't really soak much. I spray on and let sit 5-10 minutes and scrape big stuff then blast it with somewhat high pressure water. Yea purple power will take paint if there's a crack in it for it to penetrate into. Tried the pinesol on jugs and pistons yesterday and it works great loosens carbon up enough it will wash or wipe away.
 
I've found 409 does a great job especially on the sap that gets baked on cutters and around the muffler area. Add an automotive detail brush (lasts a lot longer than toothbrush) to scrub stubborn areas. I just spray on, give it a minute or two, scrub and rinse.

I tried carb cleaner once - never again. Oh it'll get stuff off - especially important stuff like serial numbers and EPA stuff printed on the silver colored stickers.

Ted
 
take all the plastics off.. scrap off the thick crap..spray with this stuff.. let it soak for 5 mins , hit it with a pressure washer... looks like new.

 
I used easy off which works great but will take the shine off the plastic. Purple power seems to work well and is less likely to strip the finish. Although it will. I only leave it for a couple minutes.
 
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