084 - gettin it cranked without breaking a hand

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I suppose this means our local GTG is off/postponed until the new saw starting technique is resolved?????? :ices_rofl: :ices_rofl: :ices_rofl:

I may have a puller for that flywheel I will check this evening

Yea, I would have to let you do all the work. By the time I got it going I'd only have one arm to work with and it's already screwed up. :laugh:
 
Not sure... I just have the four different pullers in a box - one fits!

I'll try to look later today. Maybe someone else will have the correct answer before that.
 
kickback

My 039 and MS250 have kicked back since the day I took them off the showroom. I just thought it was the nature of the beast. Yeah, they were taken back at the time but they checked out as being in tune. I tell the guys to just act like they are going to rip the starter rope off and they start and run great, and then I go and start my Husky.:laugh: :laugh:
 
I just got thru pulling the flywheel nut and the key is in position "P", the left hand key. The good news is this saw has the new 3 post control module, 1124 1308, and the keyshould be in the right hand position. It ?should? be a simple fix, assuming the shaft and flywheel keyways are in good shape.

Since my 066 has the metal flywheel, I'll probably swing by the dealer tomorrow and see if they have time to pull it. I'll post the results.
 
The flywheel puller from the 066 poly flywheel will work on the 084. If your 066 has a metal flywheel, then you need the bigger puller.

Tom

Thanks for the info Tom. You wouldn't happen to have the thread spec's on the big puller would you? If I had them I could build a puller tomorrow. I mic'd them but can't find a match on dia and thd pitch.
 
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I just got thru pulling the flywheel nut and the key is in position "P", the left hand key. The good news is this saw has the new 3 post control module, 1124 1308, and the keyshould be in the right hand position. It ?should? be a simple fix, assuming the shaft and flywheel keyways are in good shape.

Since my 066 has the metal flywheel, I'll probably swing by the dealer tomorrow and see if they have time to pull it. I'll post the results.

I hope that it is just a timing issue and this resolves it for you. Don't let the seller skate though!
 
I hope that it is just a timing issue and this resolves it for you. Don't let the seller skate though!

I'll be talking to the seller after I get a chance to try this.

It's definitely metric!

I think it's 24mm but I can't find a 1.5mm pitch listed and don't want to take a chance. I'll be visiting the dealer to either buy the puller or get him to pull it for me.
 
I had an 084 in the shop a couple of years ago with the same problem. It would run okay once you had it started, but trying to start it was torture--it really kicked! Once I talked to the local Stihl dealer and learned about the twin keyed flywheel, I pulled the flywheel and switched it to the other position. Instantly it was fixed! Afterwards, it was peach to start.
 
084 Service manual

I'll do it. Do you put anything on the crank's taper or bolt it up dry?

I've got torque wrenches if somebody has that value close by. (I'm still online searching for an 084 service manual, so far all I've found is 088 and 880's.)

The local Stihl dealer ordered a workshop manual for $3.95 for my 084. I got an owners manual for $10 from an on line place in New Zealand (I think).
 
I'll be talking to the seller after I get a chance to try this.



I think it's 24mm but I can't find a 1.5mm pitch listed and don't want to take a chance. I'll be visiting the dealer to either buy the puller or get him to pull it for me.

I measured my puller and the max OD is 25.66mm and 1.5mm pitch. Dunno if that will help...
 
I measured my puller and the max OD is 25.66mm and 1.5mm pitch. Dunno if that will help...

It will, if workload permits I'll make one tomorow. I'm real anxious to get this taken care of.

Seller turned out to be very fair, reimbursed more than enough even if it end up needing a carb kit. I'll refund what I don't need, dealing with a fair eBay selller doesn't happen often enough.
 
There is another thing to check when you remove the flywheel. On several 084s I have done the flywheel taper did not match the taper on the shaft and the flywheel would rock on the key causing timing drift. If you see very small shiny contact area on the inside of the flywheel taper I will tell you how to match the flywheel to the shaft taper. I do it to all my race saws out of habit.....but then again quite a few of my saws use no key.

(runs and ducks for cover)
 
There is another thing to check when you remove the flywheel. On several 084s I have done the flywheel taper did not match the taper on the shaft and the flywheel would rock on the key causing timing drift. If you see very small shiny contact area on the inside of the flywheel taper I will tell you how to match the flywheel to the shaft taper. I do it to all my race saws out of habit.....but then again quite a few of my saws use no key.

(runs and ducks for cover)


Take a little Valve lapping compound and put it on the Taper, run the flywheel on the taper until it is a tight fit, cleanup both tapers. Line up the slots, tap the flywheel, thne torque the nut down...no need for a key if your taper is doing its job.

I learned this at the Kart racing site...no need for offset keys to change timing on those race briggs engines.

What kind of Race saws you run? Poulan?:hmm3grin2orange:
 
Take a little Valve lapping compound and put it on the Taper, run the flywheel on the taper until it is a tight fit, cleanup both tapers. Line up the slots, tap the flywheel, thne torque the nut down...no need for a key if your taper is doing its job.

I learned this at the Kart racing site...no need for offset keys to change timing on those race briggs engines.

What kind of Race saws you run? Poulan?:hmm3grin2orange:

That is the lapping procedure however 084 loading is quite different than a kart as well as the 84 has much more mass in the flywheel than anything short of a cast iron briggs flywheel. If the need should arise I will furnish the details.


I try not to openly post not out of secret information but rather out of people misunderstanding and not following all directions which can lead to damage of all sorts as well as long and drawn out arguments and even more confusion.

And I am looking right now for several Poulans in particular and yes I have done some work on them with rather impressive power gains. Most that I have seen here in New England were the Pioneer Farmsaw versions in Yellow

I am looking for a Poulan Pro 655 in particular
 

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