Barber chair

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Gypo, I took a look at my pics because I thought the log might be in one of the pics. It's just at the right edge in this pic 2nd log in. I'm guessing 16" dia maybe, I'll get a few better pics next time I'm in that section. There is a couple of nice straight beauties back there but not mine to cut. Well until they fall on the ground that is. Last bush I logged in had a bunch of cherry that the loggers refused to take. Some idiot hunter years ago decided that 14" cherry trees are great trees to deer hunt out of. He did at least 10 trees that we found. He used lag bolts and 3" lengths of angle iron for tree climbing steps. Only inch or 2 of the steel sticking out. He even went up 30' for some stupid reason. I cut them up for firewood and ruining a couple of chains. View attachment 550610
Its hard to tell from the picture what grade or size the log is, but it looks worth setting aside. Yes, those deer stands can really mess up a good tree and chain.
Your landing looks like a windy place. Most of my jobs were not too far from Goderich.
 
Looks like you may have some veneer cherry, but hard to tell until its on the ground. The double tops often crack down to the butt log when they hit the ground.
Have you noticed who the log trucker is in the area? Wondering if it was Jaze Enterprises?
 
My guess is that the tree had vertical fractures in the trunk, possibly due to lightning.


That was just top weigh against compromised Integrity.
Lots of reasons why that exploded.
All the stars would have to align for that to work. Sharp saw with good power and speed, and no blind duchtman like he had. Very important to thin out your sap wood for the ones that fool you having your dogs in the corner so you never have to adjust at a critical time. He certainly knew it was a shell. I wouldn't try that on a tree that big. I would have set my back cut from the back then worked to the low side like he did.(probably not walked down the bank to do it though, but it worked) Shallow cut back up to the top, thinning out the shell a little more (tip never going in) putting the dogs in the high side corner of the mouth with a 36" bar and cut to your hinge in one motion. Cut out what's left of the back
staying in the same cerf from lowest point towards you.

That top was moving for a long time. Never stall the forward movement if you start the forward movement.
This Isn't a heavy leaner, it has great potential to be a "heavy leaner" cuting procedures are the same as this one.
Absolutely no Blind Dutchman when you are dealing with a shell and that kind of top weight.That was likely a healthy looking tree on the outside with trunk heart rot due to oxygen exchange. This probaby started from the bottom it looks like.
The undercut often will start tightening up on many like this.


He would have had trouble with dogging in from the high side due to the shape of the tree and didn't do a safe job.

**Tips anyone?
I would have taken another piece out of the undercut to match it up by back baring up from high side with the tip in about 4" to meet the flat cut then bore in and cut down to fix it *DO that in the first place when a trunk is oddly shaped.
You also can just make the Humboldt cut into a pie cut and clean it up that way too. If you open the U/C with the pie (birdsmouth) or do a west coast Swanson you can reach further in and start your low side back cut boring through the undercut when you don't have an option of walking down to a low side. Big trees on much steeper ground, it's a long way around when you only have one side to work from on a side hill lay otherwise.
 
^that guy was realy lucky and he is learning from the school of hard knocks. Very sad to see. Realy inexperienced!
You can not have a bypass cut in a tree like that if you cut it up like that. You have to have your dogs in the high corner early and be looking up to see what the top is doing, if you can't do the other three things and you cut it up that way then that's just mistake number four.


I see that tree was doable it's just not what I want to do.
 
I would have cut the low side about halfway from hinge back and then got on the high side instead of walking it around. From the high side of the hinge cut and walk it back leaving a tab in the back to keep it on the stump. Get rid of as much compression wood as possible before releasing.

I don't think he had a Dutchman in there. Just the bark marked. Right around 1:07 the tree pops. He should have stopped then and cut from the hinge back on the high side. If it was already moving too fast then he should have bailed sooner because it was already a lost cause.
 
I would have cut the low side about halfway from hinge back and then got on the high side instead of walking it around. From the high side of the hinge cut and walk it back leaving a tab in the back to keep it on the stump. Get rid of as much compression wood as possible before releasing.

I don't think he had a Dutchman in there. Just the bark marked. Right around 1:07 the tree pops. He should have stopped then and cut from the hinge back on the high side. If it was already moving too fast then he should have bailed sooner because it was already a lost cause.
Was just wondering how things may have been different if he had sawn in his cuts at 90 degrees from any seams in the trunk as opposed to parallel to them? Regardless, I'd never go near that one, as it looked like a den tree for critters and good loggers always leave den trees for wildlife. Lol
 
image.jpeg We haven't heard from Cantoo in almost 24 hrs. I hope he didn't chair a cherry.
Just waxing philosophical for a bit, I don't think most people understand the dynamics of a dutchman or what really causes a tree to chair.
So I have drawn two diagrams to try to explain the most common mistake that is made that adds to the chances of a tree chairing.
When we cut in our undercut, it is best to cut the angular cut first, as any overcut (kerf) will be left in the stump causing little or no effect. This makes it easier to cut an accurate horizontal cut without leaving a dutchman ( unintentional kerf) as shown in figure A.
In figure B an overcut is shown (unintentional). When the backcut is sawn in, that overcut closes first , causing tremendous tension and the possibility of a chair or in the least, difficult or impossible wedging.
Hope my diagram is self explanatory.
Any thoughts or additional explanations?
 
View attachment 551120 We haven't heard from Cantoo in almost 24 hrs. I hope he didn't chair a cherry.
Just waxing philosophical for a bit, I don't think most people understand the dynamics of a dutchman or what really causes a tree to chair.
So I have drawn two diagrams to try to explain the most common mistake that is made that adds to the chances of a tree chairing.
When we cut in our undercut, it is best to cut the angular cut first, as any overcut (kerf) will be left in the stump causing little or no effect. This makes it easier to cut an accurate horizontal cut without leaving a dutchman ( unintentional kerf) as shown in figure A.
In figure B an overcut is shown (unintentional). When the backcut is sawn in, that overcut closes first , causing tremendous tension and the possibility of a chair or in the least, difficult or impossible wedging.
Hope my diagram is self explanatory.
Any thoughts or additional explanations?

Never actually understood why a Dutchman was bad till I read this. Thank you very much
 
I agree with the fact that the Dutchman on the under cut is bad. On the angular it's better. Still not what we strive for. The whole point of your notch is for everything to line up. The angular Dutchman is more forgiving but still not textbook.
Very true!
I guess when we think about it, a large unintentional horizontal dutchman is similar to falling a tree with only a kerf as an undercut.
 
Its good to know that our discussion here may save life and limb as well as some wood fibre.

My knowledge has increased about 1000% since I joined AS but I still cannot make a straight vertical or horizontal cut to save my soul! Proved it again today bucking a red elm. Will I get laughed at if I take a framing square and a level to the woods with me? LOL
 
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My knowledge has increased about 1000% since I joined AS but I still cannot make a straight vertical or horizontal cut to save my soul! Proved it again today bucking a red elm. Will I get laughed at if I take a framing square and a level to the woods with me? LOL
Lol, join the club, no two stumps of mine are the same and most of my trees have some sort of dutchman, but I make up for some of my stupid mistakes with a fast saw, fast reflexes, nerves of steel, and a well defined escape route. Lol
 
Woody912, on ones that matter like yard trees I tie a rope around the tree and then spray paint the rope. When you remove the rope you will have a straight line to cut to.
Gypo, I'm still alive, never even had to start a saw today. Was hauling logs home and had enough trouble doing that. I don't have permission to remove any cherry trees so they will be left standing for now. This one is pretty straight all the way to the top.
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