The comes up a lot. Just because it says Stihl on it I never assumed it was. I hope others are better consumers than that. But you make a good point when someone is trying to rip someone off they rely on stickers. Someone hand me a saw and say this is a Stihl it better be. If I see an orange white saw it without stickers you might think crushed rebuilt saw. If OEM is what you are buying you better look it over and ask is this a genuine Stihl? If they say yes it is and you pay them that's theft by taking. I worry more about buying a used saw. No telling how that thing has been abused. Just asking the seller is fraught with trouble. They likely will lie to you. Just look at the excellent saws on Craigslist. That's puffery. The other is theft.
Huztl FarmerTec 070 Build Thread with upgrade info and completed saw
- Thread starter Bedford T
- Start date
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I mostly bought mine bc itd be a hell of a milling saw, and lord knows i could never afford a legit brand new 070, and if i could i promise i couldnt run the nuts off it on a mill. Im hoping mine pays for itself when i start milling slabs, hopefully will make enough to upgrade it from a 36" bar to a 56" bar to get the most out of my mill.
if you used them much you would know what I mean. I am not going to argue over that.
I got the video yesterday off youtube.
For what it is worth as far as the 070 is concerned it now does not seem so bad. My original idea was to have a saw just to cut larger logs that have already been dropped. Right now I am working two locations and want several saws at each place. Yes the 070 is a heavy beast that just works well in a straight line. But it starts right up and pulls hard. Then all the different bars and different chains issue came up. You need a large mount Stihl Bar with 404 chain to run it unless you convert the clutch to 3/8''. The converting process did not go well in that Oregon back ordered my clutch orders and they are not sure when they will have more in stock since these are slow moving items. Not wanting to fabricate a special clutch and with hundreds of feet of 404 chain which is good chain now what. A couple of my saws run 404 chain just fine with some older clutches that happen to be laying around in my shop. So I got some 404 bar tips for my Husqvarnas and a 404 tip for another Stihl Rollomatic bar and now for a couple of hundred bucks I have FIVE saws running 404 chain. So my tool box will be filled with just 404 chain and some 7/32 files maybe life can be good again. Thanks
What's the biggest girth of the average tree in your area?
I took the extra clutch cover I ordered to the machine shop to have the piece reduced to just the area holding the 070 chain in place. Everyone in charge was out to lunch, lady said it could be s while if they would agree to do it. This place has the capability to do a perfect job. I will just have to refinish it. I am getting there. Baby steps.
Why would you need to do this? Milling makes smaller pieces than bucking. Besides, the clutch cover is huge. It would not be an issue at all on a mill.
If you order one of these saws you may want to consider this piston stop. Its the one the service manual recommends. Might be needed over the rope I normally use on the 660 and below. Mine came today I forgot to order one. Got a spare filter as well.
http://www.huztl.net/Piston-Stop-To...TIHL-1107-191-1201-1107-191-1200-p227568.html
http://www.huztl.net/Piston-Stop-To...TIHL-1107-191-1201-1107-191-1200-p227568.html
14' diameter at chest height but the average that I cut day to day is 24'' to 36'' Today will be starting about 20 Oak logs that are 60'' at the base tapering to 30'' Thanks
Huztl is out of stock on 070
The Glencoe Baobab in South Africa is about 164ft. That would require a long bar.
The largest that I did by myself was a 9 footer Ponderosa Pine. I had to order a special bar just for that tree. There were at least 10 cords in it or maybe even more. I aimed for some smaller 1' trees and a couple got buried out of sight. I took several hours to get every thing going, but it was fun finally to see it start to sway. Thanks
I got the side cover back from the machinist and he did a great job. One of the things that did not occur to me although it was pointed out, the engine modification allows for easier on off of the chain. I look forward to using it. My bar comes this week and then I will get the chains.
an excerpt out of the book reads:
Engine Modification
An engine sawdust guard does several jobs. It holds the guide plate that controls chain entry into the bar and it is also the clamping bracket for the bar. In normal crosscutting, the guard allows sawdust to be directed away from the saw through a bottom opening. However, when the saw is inverted in the milling position, the opening doesn't allow the sawdust to escape properly, which causes a sawdust buildup between the centrifugal clutch and the guard. This often leads to internal clutch problems and heavy clutch-shoe wear. An easy modification eliminates this problem. Simply cut away the sawdust-shielding portion of the unit and use the guide plate and clamping bracket as you normally would. This exposes additional moving parts, but because the saw is inverted during milling, the advantages make it worthwhile to me (Will Malloff).
With this modification, you also won't have to remove the bar from the engine to mount or remove the chain.
an excerpt out of the book reads:
Engine Modification
An engine sawdust guard does several jobs. It holds the guide plate that controls chain entry into the bar and it is also the clamping bracket for the bar. In normal crosscutting, the guard allows sawdust to be directed away from the saw through a bottom opening. However, when the saw is inverted in the milling position, the opening doesn't allow the sawdust to escape properly, which causes a sawdust buildup between the centrifugal clutch and the guard. This often leads to internal clutch problems and heavy clutch-shoe wear. An easy modification eliminates this problem. Simply cut away the sawdust-shielding portion of the unit and use the guide plate and clamping bracket as you normally would. This exposes additional moving parts, but because the saw is inverted during milling, the advantages make it worthwhile to me (Will Malloff).
With this modification, you also won't have to remove the bar from the engine to mount or remove the chain.
