Stihl 076 rebuild......

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Great pics.

On case pairs like yours, I like to stick down a sheet of 600 emery paper to a sheet of thick plate glass (or a granite machinist block, or you granite kitchen counter!) and move the crank case inner surface in gentle circular motions until the witness marks show that all the high spots are gone.

If you're going to paint the case, don't paint inside the crankcase or oil tank.... The factory paint is an epoxy on bare metal. Anything else will eventually come off in gas/oil/heat.


You do NOT want to use sealed bearings... they will fail quickly and in any case, your oil pump drive will not get any lube. Use a high quality replacement like FAQ, SKF, NTN etc.. C3 fit, poly (Nylon) or riveted steel cage.

Yes, the silicone is to stabilize and damp proof the connector.
 
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Great pics.

On case pairs like yours, I like to stick down a sheet of 600 emery paper to a sheet of thick plate glass (or a granite machinist block, or you granite kitchen counter!) and move the crank case inner surface in gentle circular motions until the witness marks show that all the high spots are gone.

Yeah I might give that a quick whirl on my planer table.

If you're going to paint the case, don't paint inside the crankcase or oil tank.... The factory paint is an epoxy on bare metal. Anything else will eventually come off in gas/oil/heat.

Yeah I figured that. I got some auto paint the other day for both colours which is almost a perfect match. I will give the case a paint job on the outside only, when its all back together.

You do NOT want to use sealed bearings... they will fail quickly and in any case, your oil pump drive will not get any lube. Use a high quality replacement like FAQ, SKF, NTN etc.. C3 fit, poly (Nylon) or riveted steel cage.

Yes, the silicone is to stabilize and damp proof the connector.

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Good thing I put the newbie sign next to that question.
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Probably should have given that one more thought. Makes perfect sense though what you say. The heat would probably fry the seals and like you said, no lube can get to the oil pump drive.:cheers:
 
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Heck, send me one as well then. save me scanning it :)

also to save you the trouble, most libaries and copy centres used copy/scan/fax machines, ours is a canon with a automatic feed attachement(can stack up 500 pages press scan and the images files automatically sent via the network to my hard drive). ive used mine at work to feed manuals of several hundred pages through the machine to create jpg images which i then combine into a pdf file. i can do 100 page manuals in about 15 minutes.
 
also to save you the trouble, most libaries and copy centres used copy/scan/fax machines, ours is a canon with a automatic feed attachement(can stack up 500 pages press scan and the images files automatically sent via the network to my hard drive). ive used mine at work to feed manuals of several hundred pages through the machine to create jpg images which i then combine into a pdf file. i can do 100 page manuals in about 15 minutes.


Hi DJ, thats pretty handy being able to copy a big manual like that!

Got the parts list, thanks heaps.

The question I had was that the part numbers are slightly different for the decompression valves.

076 part D/valve is #1124 020 9400
051 part D/valve is #1111 020 9400

Will this decomp valve fit in the 051 cylinder?
 
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It's hard to say.. Usually if Stihl calls out a different part number there is a good reason.

I never had any problem starting my 051 without a decomp, but I'd sure want one on an 075/76.
 
It's hard to say.. Usually if Stihl calls out a different part number there is a good reason.

I never had any problem starting my 051 without a decomp, but I'd sure want one on an 075/76.

Fair enough. Theres only way to find out!

Its strange that the last group of numbers are exactly the same, but the first four art different. Might be a question for Stihl themselves.

If it doesn't fit or I don't need need it, I'm sure someone will snap it up on Ebay. 076's go for a good price here.

I wasn't going to change the oil seals as they look fine....but how the *&%$ would I know for sure, as I never pressure tested the case. So I ordered new ones. Have to see if I can also find Dirko here in Aus.
 
You'll need the seals.. If your bearings are shot, the seals will be also.

The last number group is a part number based on area of use; the first 4 are a first-use saw model number..

Why do you "need" dirko on an 076...?
 
Why do you "need" dirko on an 076...?
Too be honest....I don't know.:help: ....:stupid:
I haven't pulled the old ones out yet, so not too sure how they actually seal. Some threads here have said to smear a little sealant on the outside of the oil seal.

Are these 051 seals a different style to newer saws?
 
No, you dont need dirko on an 051. Just bang the seals in without sealant. They seal with metal to metal pressure on the outer edges. If you do put the tiniest smear on the outer edges, it won't hurt, but it's not required.

The other thead was talking about another type of saw engine and seals where Dirko is requried Follow the directions in your service manual.
 
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No, you dont need dirko on an 051. Just bang the seals in without sealant. They seal with metal to metal pressure on the outer edges. If you do put the tiniest smear on the outer edges, it won't hurt, but it's not required.

The other thead was talking about another type of saw engine and seals where Dirko is requried Follow the directions in your service manual.

Cheers, no probs.

The manual doesn't say anything about putting sealing on either.
 

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