McCulloch Chain Saws

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Should I hone the cylinder or just use sand paper? Mcculloch 7-10 chrome bore
If you have aluminum transfer then get the aluminum off. Ive used oil and fine emery to remove it very successfully. It takes time. The chrome is very thin. Its hard but thin. If you google honing a chrome cylinder there are several discussions about it and a few from this site back 10yrs ago. Some say never do it others say go for it. Seems theres no right answer. If i had a hone and it seemed warranted id try it. Id be cautious though.
 
Yes, there are extensive discussions about the 70cc top ends in a couple of forums. Start with what you have, do the research, and go from there. Just don't take everything you read as gospel unless the consensus and documentation are both there to substantiate what someone may claim to know from 'their personal experience'. Someone not smart enough to know what they don't know usually doesn't. (And for the record, I'm not referring to anyone from this forum.)


It goes all the way up to '11'.


Bet you don't have any experience to make that claim big guy. Maybe I should post your little hissy fit you sent me in pm on the public board for everyone to see. I have nothing to loose, do you?
 
I'm with Vinny on this one.Honing can be much faster,but much more aggressive & may end up taking off more than just the aluminum transfer.

What I've found to work quite well is to find a piece of PVC., pipe that fits in the cylinder loosly (if possible),then wrap the pipe with emery cloth & insert it into the cylinder & turn with the opposite direction it was wrapped on the pipe.You'll get an even "finish".
 
Bet you don't have any experience to make that claim big guy. Maybe I should post your little hissy fit you sent me in pm on the public board for everyone to see. I have nothing to loose, do you?
How mature of you, little guy. You're in what grade, now?

Post whatever you like. Edit away to suit your purpose. Just make sure to include the part where I reached out to you over on Opie trying to smooth the waters between us.

And you're certainly right about one thing. You have nothing to loose.

So f**k off.











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Holy cow is he proud of that! Thanks for sharing. A saw friend of mine has a mac pm6 dealer cutaway display. I get it in his will...lol. it sparks too. Coolest man cave decoration. Has a chromed bar. Neat.
Not to be facetious here,but how old is this friend of yours that has you in his will? Lol
 
Trying to put the carb cover on the Monkey Wards 2.1 & I'm having some problems.
1)For the AF bracket (had to replace it due to a moron using the wrong screw resulting in stripped threads) what is the order for the washers & choke plate?I've figured that the top of the bracket gets only the thick washer,but the bottom is a bugger.There's the thick washer,the wave washer,& the choke plate.
2)I put the throttle lock into the carb cover,but not sure if I got it in right or not.I couldn't get it to go on the other way (the aluminum cap)
 

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Thanks everyone for replying Does anyone know the actual thickness of the two different rings for the 85239 piston? I have the windowed piston and the rings are .045 I think they are thin just not sure. I'm going to clean the NLA bearing and hope it's good. Hope everybody had a Happy New Year
0.045 are the thick rings, the thin rings are machined steel around 0.024" thick.

Mark
 
Mark,what would cause the PM310 to blow bar oil out the exhaust?

I also found the problem with the choke plate not opening all the way.The carb box that you used in it is the culprit,it prevents the choke plate from opening fully.I'm pretty sure I can use my Dremel tool to sand out on the bottom a bit & that should solve the problem.
If the oil pump is badly worn some bar oil can seep past the piston (in the automatic oil pump) and get into the crankcase. I replaced the o-ring at the base of the pump and didn't notice any problems when I ran it but I did not leave it setting overnight fill with bar oil before I ran it. Usually when the oil pump is worn and allowing a bit of oil to seep back while setting, the saw will clear out in less than a minute when you start it up and run it. The other option would be to replace the automatic oil pump with one having less wear. I can send the pump from the other saw if you'd like to try it, but that saw evidently had more hours as it had less compression.

The airbox and the choke parts were the only parts I received with the saws. The AF bracket and choke plate on your saw are from one of the older saws that do not have the integrated air box/cover and as you can see, don't fit properly in that air box. You can modify the choke plate, the air box, or swap them out for the parts from the later saw.

This is what the AF bracket and choke plate are supposed to look like with the integrated air box/cover.

20220102_170647.jpg

You can see that even the correct set up does not allow the choke plate to move fully out of the carburetor bore.

20220102_170658.jpg

Mark
 
Should I hone the cylinder or just use sand paper? Mcculloch 7-10 chrome bore
I always go with a scotch bright pad and a little sandind, takes alot of elbow grease and time but if your restoring a cylinder that is not plentiful then why risk it?
I know meteor aftermarket cylinders will tolerate any short of a nuclear blast but they're not making 7-10 cylinders.
 
Ed - If you look at the choke on the saw I sent back you will see how the spacer washers and spring washer go together to allow the choke plate to function. It has to be free to pivot and fit under the AF bracket, but fit tightly enough to the air box to perform the choke function. The spring washer allows the pivot and holds the choke plate against the cover.

The later style bracket works differently as you can see above, the choke plate is on top of the bracket. If you take yours apart be careful, I didn't have another of the thick spacer washers and had to use two small flat washers for the top screw. Getting everything lined up and back together will allow you to practice your patience...

Mark
 
Not to be facetious here,but how old is this friend of yours that has you in his will? Lol
Lol, i truly have never asked. But he has my name on that pm6 mentioned and if i go before him for some reason he gets my sp105.

He is older than me. My guess is 60s. Its just a thing we have stated in our communications. If i ever sell the 105 he gets first dibs.
 
I always go with a scotch bright pad and a little sandind, takes alot of elbow grease and time but if your restoring a cylinder that is not plentiful then why risk it?
I know meteor aftermarket cylinders will tolerate any short of a nuclear blast but they're not making 7-10 cylinders.
Thats hilarious....nuclear blast. Made me laugh out loud!!!
 
Should I hone the cylinder or just use sand paper?

Go easy with something like this chucked up in a 3/8's variable speed drill. The chrome can indeed be flaky in these cylinders, so just be sensible and check your progress as you go. The red Scotch-Brite is a bit more aggressive than the green. The pic of the cylinder has a wad of green through the eyebolt as a stuffer to get maximum contact with the cylinder wall by the red wrapped around it. The blue paper is180 grit plumber's emery paper.

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Ed - If you look at the choke on the saw I sent back you will see how the spacer washers and spring washer go together to allow the choke plate to function. It has to be free to pivot and fit under the AF bracket, but fit tightly enough to the air box to perform the choke function. The spring washer allows the pivot and holds the choke plate against the cover.

The later style bracket works differently as you can see above, the choke plate is on top of the bracket. If you take yours apart be careful, I didn't have another of the thick spacer washers and had to use two small flat washers for the top screw. Getting everything lined up and back together will allow you to practice your patience...

Mark
I noticed that all I have here is the older style AF brackets on all the 310s & the one 320 I have.I foundf out that we cannot order just the washers,choke plate,or AF bracket separately,they must be ordered as a "kit".Since I ordered a new AF bracket "kit" from Bob I'll have to give him a call to see which one I'll get.

As far as the order in which the washers go in the AF bracket,I can't tell by looking at the saw you sent back.My eyes are good for squat.I had my son help me the other day & we were still unsuccessful.
 

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