redunshee
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Need to replace coil wire and sparkplug boot on my Stihl 011. Other than a stihl dealer or Ebay where would be a good local source, Autoparts store?
5 mm is what I need. Was only wondering if it could be picked up at an auto supply store or somewhere similar. Found some on Amazon, however.Stihl 011? (sorry does not give much info to me?)
mostly 5mm or 7mm HV wire are used on my fleet of 65 saws.
7 mm seems to be available often enough but (for me) 5 mm is harder to find.
This should be SOLID ignition wire and your Stihl dealer should sell it by the foot. Might be hard to find solid ignition wire these days at an auto-parts store.5 mm is what I need. Was only wondering if it could be picked up at an auto supply store or somewhere similar. Found some on Amazon, however.
I did. Question: what type of sealant should I use when inserting the coil wire into the coil? I assume you need something to weatherproof the connection.Go to YouTube and look up coil wire replacement
I'd put a thin film of high-temp RTV silicone where it mates the coil. Many are recommended for plastic to rubber and rated to 400-500 oF.I did. Question: what type of sealant should I use when inserting the coil wire into the coil? I assume you need something to weatherproof the connection.
I was just implying a film on the wire insulation as the wire is screwed into the coil. No sealer on the end of the wire where it screws onto the threaded barb.the wire's shielding is the seal when screwed into the coil connection, the coil body is sealed so there is no need for sealant or any other goop that may interfere with electrical discharge.
It`s common to seal them in in our area as running chainsaws in wet conditions is the norm, both rain and snow melt. I have replaced many coils/modules that moisture corroded off the barb the HT lead screws onto.I was just implying a film on the wire insulation as the wire is screwed into the coil. No sealer on the end of the wire where it screws onto the threaded barb.
Speaking of the Stihl shop manual... Has anyone had much success installing the plug boot and spring from the plug tower side as shown in the manual? Getting the spring to stay in the wire while bending the whole assembly and shoving it into the boot is an exercise in frustration! I finally found that it was much easier to crimp the spring into the wire and insert it straight into the wire end of the boot using a little silicone spray lube.The rubber boot covers the joint. Maybe they left it off. If anything, use silicone paste.
http://thebakeliteradio.com/sawspares.com/009010011WorkshopManual.pdfSee page 26, first pic.
Yep, pierce the coil barb into the Ht lead, a little press fluid and using pliers to hold the barb and the wire tight I push them into the boot from where the Ht wire enters. I have tried the other way and with the 90 degree boots on older saws it was tricky but possible, they now have boots that are about 60 degrees and that method is basically impossible.Speaking of the Stihl shop manual... Has anyone had much success installing the plug boot and spring from the plug tower side as shown in the manual? Getting the spring to stay in the wire while bending the whole assembly and shoving it into the boot is an exercise in frustration! I finally found that it was much easier to crimp the spring into the wire and insert it straight into the wire end of the boot using a little silicone spray lube.
I learned about moisture doing bad things many years ago.It`s common to seal them in in our area as running chainsaws in wet conditions is the norm, both rain and snow melt. I have replaced many coils/modules that moisture corroded off the barb the HT lead screws onto.
Where I live on the saltwater ocean coast surrounded by freshwater lakes and it rains twice or more each week, moisture is always a problem for machines. Keeping it out is a constant battle but doable with some effort.I learned about moisture doing bad things many years ago.
We used to do long (think needing to find fuel 2-3 times) cross country/enduro rides on our dirt bikes. Some of the water/mud crossings had water gas tank/seat deep. If you didn't make it across, you had to flip the bike upside down on the seat/handlebars, take out the plug, and turn it over to get the water out of the cylinder. We did all kinds of things to keep the ignition dry and water out of the airbox.
We rode the same trails the 1973 ISDT ( International Six Days Trial) ran on.
Which product manual and date shows this newer installation method?Edit to update:
Had a quick browse at a newer manual, stihl now suggest the way we both mentioned.
View attachment 962607
That was the ms 500iWhich product manual and date shows this newer installation method?
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