coil wire replacement

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Stihl 011? (sorry does not give much info to me?)
mostly 5mm or 7mm HV wire are used on my fleet of 65 saws.
7 mm seems to be available often enough but (for me) 5 mm is harder to find.
5 mm is what I need. Was only wondering if it could be picked up at an auto supply store or somewhere similar. Found some on Amazon, however.
 
5 mm is what I need. Was only wondering if it could be picked up at an auto supply store or somewhere similar. Found some on Amazon, however.
This should be SOLID ignition wire and your Stihl dealer should sell it by the foot. Might be hard to find solid ignition wire these days at an auto-parts store.

It should probably (if like most other older Stihls) unscrew from the coil tower exposing a screw in the bottom of the hole.
 
I did. Question: what type of sealant should I use when inserting the coil wire into the coil? I assume you need something to weatherproof the connection.
I'd put a thin film of high-temp RTV silicone where it mates the coil. Many are recommended for plastic to rubber and rated to 400-500 oF.
 
the wire's shielding is the seal when screwed into the coil connection, the coil body is sealed so there is no need for sealant or any other goop that may interfere with electrical discharge.
 
the wire's shielding is the seal when screwed into the coil connection, the coil body is sealed so there is no need for sealant or any other goop that may interfere with electrical discharge.
I was just implying a film on the wire insulation as the wire is screwed into the coil. No sealer on the end of the wire where it screws onto the threaded barb.
 
I was just implying a film on the wire insulation as the wire is screwed into the coil. No sealer on the end of the wire where it screws onto the threaded barb.
It`s common to seal them in in our area as running chainsaws in wet conditions is the norm, both rain and snow melt. I have replaced many coils/modules that moisture corroded off the barb the HT lead screws onto.
 
The rubber boot covers the joint. Maybe they left it off. If anything, use silicone paste.
http://thebakeliteradio.com/sawspares.com/009010011WorkshopManual.pdfSee page 26, first pic.
Speaking of the Stihl shop manual... Has anyone had much success installing the plug boot and spring from the plug tower side as shown in the manual? Getting the spring to stay in the wire while bending the whole assembly and shoving it into the boot is an exercise in frustration! I finally found that it was much easier to crimp the spring into the wire and insert it straight into the wire end of the boot using a little silicone spray lube.
 
Speaking of the Stihl shop manual... Has anyone had much success installing the plug boot and spring from the plug tower side as shown in the manual? Getting the spring to stay in the wire while bending the whole assembly and shoving it into the boot is an exercise in frustration! I finally found that it was much easier to crimp the spring into the wire and insert it straight into the wire end of the boot using a little silicone spray lube.
Yep, pierce the coil barb into the Ht lead, a little press fluid and using pliers to hold the barb and the wire tight I push them into the boot from where the Ht wire enters. I have tried the other way and with the 90 degree boots on older saws it was tricky but possible, they now have boots that are about 60 degrees and that method is basically impossible.

Old boot:
F0151560-3456-469C-9997-054AB8D6FE50.jpeg



New
15B9D4CA-41D2-4BF3-883B-1B009947E083.jpeg

Edit to update:

Had a quick browse at a newer manual, stihl now suggest the way we both mentioned.


2D40CEFA-6F2D-47AB-A382-567420F37989.jpeg
 
It`s common to seal them in in our area as running chainsaws in wet conditions is the norm, both rain and snow melt. I have replaced many coils/modules that moisture corroded off the barb the HT lead screws onto.
I learned about moisture doing bad things many years ago.

We used to do long (think needing to find fuel 2-3 times) cross country/enduro rides on our dirt bikes. Some of the water/mud crossings had water gas tank/seat deep. If you didn't make it across, you had to flip the bike upside down on the seat/handlebars, take out the plug, and turn it over to get the water out of the cylinder. We did all kinds of things to keep the ignition dry and water out of the airbox.

We rode the same trails the 1973 ISDT ( International Six Days Trial) ran on.
 
I learned about moisture doing bad things many years ago.

We used to do long (think needing to find fuel 2-3 times) cross country/enduro rides on our dirt bikes. Some of the water/mud crossings had water gas tank/seat deep. If you didn't make it across, you had to flip the bike upside down on the seat/handlebars, take out the plug, and turn it over to get the water out of the cylinder. We did all kinds of things to keep the ignition dry and water out of the airbox.

We rode the same trails the 1973 ISDT ( International Six Days Trial) ran on.
Where I live on the saltwater ocean coast surrounded by freshwater lakes and it rains twice or more each week, moisture is always a problem for machines. Keeping it out is a constant battle but doable with some effort.
 
You can use silicone dielectric grease used on auto sparkplug boots. It is used to stop arcing from dirt, carbon and moisture.
 
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