70cc saw opinions based on these factors...

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LAST post on this I promise! But trying to show the environment and how the smaller saw worked in a typical late fall early winter job. SO this was Last fall with that 565 so around 7 months in with that saw and at this point, realized it was the one I choose over my other saws...it was COLD and the snow started falling, but life must go on. Real time video of life with that 565 :) ALSO relevant because in this one I took down a healthy cherry with around a 30inch diameter base where I cut, had to cut the root flares off, and did the work with the 565 with a 28inch bar and chain so folks can see how it pulls that combination.


Nice video.

What was the second saw you used?
 
If any of the current "right to repair" lawsuits go through, it won't be long till stihl and other manufacturers have to release a version to the public. May not be the flash yoir stuff version, but basic diagnostics like an obd2 set up. Really though the autotune/mtronic systems are pretty robust.
Hi Sean, I hot an aitotune it seems robust and after a few hiccups (mainly getting used to it) it does run good, but no way is it going to last like my 2 and 3 series husqvarna has. Maybe in stuck in my ways and too old to change! Like I will never go electric because as soon as you buy into one system they will change and things wont fit, the name of the game is to keep you buying new. Its makes the money go around.
 
Of those choices it must the a 562. What does HTSS stand for?
My Hill Top Saw Shop builds. They are a modded for production work 562's with a little more punch in the lower RPM's and run cooler than the OEM stock saws. Done them for years and they have proven the test of time in the field, most still in production work since I started building them in 2015. They have tweaked cylinder to increase compression & rid the saw of interference issues with the cylinder to case, modded muffler, cut covers on the older ones etc. Upgraded carbs. simple stuff. Hardest part is cutting popups and the timing tweaks, that really don't do as much anyway as simply the compression change. Last video I did was a cheap simple tools version of the build on a 555.



On a 562

 
Hi Sean, I hot an aitotune it seems robust and after a few hiccups (mainly getting used to it) it does run good, but no way is it going to last like my 2 and 3 series husqvarna has. Maybe in stuck in my ways and too old to change! Like I will never go electric because as soon as you buy into one system they will change and things wont fit, the name of the game is to keep you buying new. Its makes the money go around.
I don't know, time will tell how long they last. This spring was the first time I had issues with an auto tune saw. 2012 562xp original carb. Would have fixed it instead of replacing it, if the dealer or any dealer could have gotten a new carb for it. I didn't have the time to mess around and called till I found a replacement saw. The guy that ended up buying it from me messaged me on evibay to let me know he swapped the carb and ignition over from a blown up saw and it ran like a top again. That one in particular had a pretty fresh top end on it. Think I had about 5 gallons through it. That's life though. My biggest issue is the cost of parts often exceeds the cost of the same saw new. I was ok putting a fresh top end on it, ad I wanted to play with the cylinder a bit but the $300.00+ for the carb, ignition module, and programming it was ridiculous.
 
yeah here in japan you cannot order any parts online and most shops will not order parts for you either.
hmmm. I understand Stihl when they don't sell parts in the US. Can't have every redneck fiddle with precision German engineering ;-) But why they don't sell them in Japan is anyone's guess. Maybe there's some law in the EU, so they have to sell parts.
 
hmmm. I understand Stihl when they don't sell parts in the US. Can't have every redneck fiddle with precision German engineering ;-) But why they don't sell them in Japan is anyone's guess. Maybe there's some law in the EU, so they have to sell parts.
So those red necks will "fill" the gap with Farmertec parts & saws and make stuff work anyway. That's where this is headed :(
 
hmmm. I understand Stihl when they don't sell parts in the US. Can't have every redneck fiddle with precision German engineering ;-) But why they don't sell them in Japan is anyone's guess. Maybe there's some law in the EU, so they have to sell parts.
Stihl got so proprietary you couldn't buy a carb kit unless it was a Dealer product . I finally said adios to my local Dealer . Fortunately today aftermarket parts sourcing is readily available.
 
How thick of plate is yours? I'm assuming it's probably not real thick, probably just boxed and gusseted. I'd love to go hydraulic on the winch but probably stay electric, I've already got a couple good ones laying around. I've got a small L series Kubota anyhow, a good hydraulic unit would probably be too much...
 
hmmm. I understand Stihl when they don't sell parts in the US. Can't have every redneck fiddle with precision German engineering ;-) But why they don't sell them in Japan is anyone's guess. Maybe there's some law in the EU, so they have to sell parts.
Funny my "german" saws all have china made factory carbs.
 
hmmm. I understand Stihl when they don't sell parts in the US. Can't have every redneck fiddle with precision German engineering ;-) But why they don't sell them in Japan is anyone's guess. Maybe there's some law in the EU, so they have to sell parts.
here in japan getting stihl or husky parts is for the most part not going to happen. the reason here is that the shops will not make any money on repairs if they sell parts to the consumer. i order parts online from the states and can get basically any husky part I want from any of a multitude of sellers so thats why I use husky, i have no brand preference other than the ability to get parts so I can service my stuff.
 
I'm scheduled to pick it up today, but I plan to comment on my impressions of it sometime next week after I get to use it.

I ordered a 20" and a 24" bar for it. I really prefer a 24" bar, but the videos of European loggers make smaller bars look more nimble, so I wanted to try that also.

Does anyone know what size bar makes a 1-to-1 ratio with bar oil and fuel for the 572xp? For example, both my old 462cm and my current 661cm run out of oil and gas at the same time if I'm using a 24" bar and chain.

Any thoughts on that for the 572xp?
Bar length doesn't affect oil usage that I am aware of, turn it up more oil used turn it down less is used, I run everything wide open and bar oil and gas is used equally. I always top off bar oil and I don't fill the gas up 100% usually 7/8;of a tank that way I will always be oiling up until I run out of gas.
 
Bar length doesn't affect oil usage that I am aware of, turn it up more oil used turn it down less is used, I run everything wide open and bar oil and gas is used equally. I always top off bar oil and I don't fill the gas up 100% usually 7/8;of a tank that way I will always be oiling up until I run out of gas.
A longer bar will typicaly pull less rpms in the cut assuming yournusing all or most of the bar. As a result the oil pump will spin at less RPM and thus have less output.
 
A longer bar will typicaly pull less rpms in the cut assuming yournusing all or most of the bar. As a result the oil pump will spin at less RPM and thus have less output.
Even at full rpm some older saws , just do not produce sufficient volume for adequate oiling , of more aggressive cutters on longer length bars . Brufabs saws are Vintage Remingtons & ripping is a perfect example where adequate oiling is at a premium , as is the case often with full house chains in general on longer bars especially on vintage saws !
 
Great choice in going with the 70cc

funny how all the guys with 60cc saws say there's run with 70cc and pull 28" chains. Wth does pull mean? And does theyre wife get made cause theres bar oil all over the garage.
 
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